MV Agusta Forum banner

Rear hub (2nd Gen) Cush slop repair.

5.7K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  bioluminescence  
#1 · (Edited)
So these cush rubbers are inexpensive, but their design just doesn't last very long, being my second time replacing them in the last 2 years.
The newer 3rd gen hub looks eerily too much like the 1st gen hub I had on my F4, for MV to call this an improvement, rather than admitting it fixed their own mistakes.

But the cost of getting the "new" hub isn't worth the price for me.
$550 vs. $25 set of rubbers once a year...

Note:
The rubbers are MV specific, having their logo stamped on them.
I properly torqued the flange nut last time (200nm), but you can see it came off effortlessly. My only guess is as the rubbers crush laterally, the torque acts less on the flange. Maybe re-torque after 250 miles is in order? Will try and find out...
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
There was a post on here about shimming the OEM rubbers with hard plastic shims. Gets the job done.

Shim thread: 2nd gen Cush Drive slop fix

I went with the BDS myself.
Thanks, I have an extra cutting mat to try this if/when they go bad.
The BDS is better looking than most aftermarket parts I have seen, but holding off for now.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
I went ahead and snagged this today. Waaaayyy cheaper than from MV.

I remember seeing Gen 1 carriers needed a spacer to fit Gen 2.
This is from a 2020 F3. I can't tell by the photos if it has, or needs, a spacer?

Image
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
BIG BIG BIG mistake in this advise,
never ever turn the rear wheel against the gearbox, in reverse direction.
You just must not put a gear in, and torque the rear axle nuts against the gearbox AND engine crank- and camshaft.

Either block the rear wheel, as shown in this video
blocking the rear wheel with the help of the rear stand,

210Nm - YouTube

or put the bike onto the wheels and ask a second person to break, front and rear,
so the axle nuts can be torqued.

Just my humble opinion.
Thanks for reminding me not to do this. I forgot that my mechanic also demonstrated being in neutral when removing the rear wheel. Back then, he applied the rear brake, but my rear brake is currently not working at all... (fixing that next service hopefully)
I'll use the blocking method for now
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Well I got my 2020 carrier, free shipping from Kiev, Ukraine...

NO fancy video this time, but I promise I left it in neutral for the entire job!

I prefer OEM whenever possible. And this design looks right, and worked well on my F4.
The circular cush rubbers don't sit as deep, and therefor don't mount anywhere near the hub.
The last carrier sat freakishly close, and evidence of rub was seen as the rubbers started to go bad. Thankfully, my hub wasn't damaged by this.

Only spent $140, not bad! Other options seemed to be around $500+...

Image

Image

Image
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·