The ECU I saw from them was a standard ECU, Flashed to a Race one using ECUStudio, which is perfectly ok and rightfully a race ECU. I know this as I was able to upgrade the ROM and make changes using my ECUStudio kit (licence is held in the ECU). I would say its very good, but why not just buy ECUStudio and flash it yourself? That way you can dyno it properly and set everything up as you want and change things over time as you find you need too.

The other part of your question, Dyno every time. The basic Maps and ROM's are great, but you need dyno time to get the best from the Bike. That's the same on all bikes, no 2 engines, exhausts or filters are the same. Plus if you can access the ECU, you can fault find, and adjust the QS and Blipper to how you like it. Ok to be honest I tinker too much, but electronics / software is as much a part of modern bikes an a set of spanners.

Happy to send you a link I have showing how to flash an MV, its easy. Oh they have a discount at the moment too for Forum members. I saw a post on it somewhere

 

I've bought the EB race ECU and works great with my full RG7 system. In my case when I bought the RG7 it came with a 2012 ECU so I needed t buy an Eldor ECU to go along.
Like mentioned it's a simple option but works perfectly and the Evolution Bike staff always do a great job

 

I have Bodis header and EB race ECU on my 2018 base model. It has a erratic idle. It goes up and down about 100-200 rpm at idle. I know it's a "race bike" multiple MV techs here in the have US have told me "it's no big deal" yada yada. I dont want to hear that! When your at a corner and your idle is going up and down it's not only annoying but embarrassing as well being a life long master tech myself. I've had a couple MV shops look at it. One MV shop swapped back to the stock ECU and "set the idle" charged me 650 dollars and when I got the bike home not only did it run like a stock bike (no deceleration burble, blipper was not as sweet at all, low rpm power) it was idling at 1900 after it warmed up!! I put the EB race ECU back in immediately and am just living w the erratic idle until now!

I received MY ECU studio today!!!

I am so happy with the EB race ECU I just need to get this idle fixed.

I have synced the throttle bodies with the new USB computerized throttle body sync tool from healtech and its sweet

I do not plan to do any changes to the map at all except fixing the idle.

I did buy the ECU studio kit with a license so maybe that was a waste of money? I dont know since this ecu I'm adjusting is the EB race...

So, I'm really hoping with the timing and fuel adjustments and possibly turning "on" the O2 sensor. Maybe that will help the idle. IDK, I won't be using a dyno, I have a handheld O2 sensor tool I use for performance boat engines. That is how I'm going to read the air fuel mix at idle.

I'm hoping it works, with the help of a fantastic member dansoarr that emailed me the ecu studio manual and the gentlemen that runs ecu studio I'm hoping to make my idle just as good as the rest of the map (ROM) is!

So, that's my take on a Bodis header and EB race ecu. Hope both our bikes are perfect in the future! Pls let me know how yours is doing when your start switching parts?

 

Hi @RR18
Is the F4RC Race ECU that comes with your bike identical to the road trim Eldor ECU that also comes with your bike? I am thinking the race ecu is exactly the same as the road ECU but with a race setup map to match the SC pipe... Asking as I need to source a missing Race ECU for my 2017 F4 RC but wondering if I can grab any 2nd gen F4 Eldor ECU then get my MV dealer to load the race map.

 

Yes you can

 

Thanks Chuck. Do you have an RC? So you mean both ECUs that come with the F4 RC are the same, just different maps?

 

Ah, I do not have an RC; the “Race” ECU for any MV is simply a rapped ECU with the Lambda Sensor Input shut off along with some more aggressive fueling and timing.