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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone had this issue with a battery before? The battery won't turn the bike over, just the loud CLICK of the solenoid. So I put the charger on...reads full, so I leave it for the day. Come home...CLICK. Smack around the solenoid some...CLICK. Check fuses...CLICK. So I put the tester on the battery to see if it's reading low...17.5V??? Then it starts climbing 18V, 19V...turn on the key, drops 0.5V then keeps on climbing again. Hit the starter...CLICK, stops climbing then keeps on going again.

Does this happen when AGMs short internally?
 

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?

measured with a GOOD external meter??????

lead/acid won't go over 13.2V DC

:jsm:
 

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Have you got the polarity reversed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Haha, battery was dying in my meter. Replaced the battery in the meter, bike battery sits at 12.36V out of the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The bike has been working flawlessly all season since I fixed the wiring, but it sat a week and then did this. That's why I'm set on it being the battery, regardless of my shifty meter Noel :) For a Yuasa, it was never a shining example, but it's the only thing I can see failing between when I parked it a week ago and it not starting this morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
So I'm pretty sure the battery is weak. I hooked up my KLX to boost it and it fired right up. Once at operating temp it easily fired itself up. I'll try again in the morning and if it's a no go will by another battery. Pretty sure I'll get another Yuasa, but I think I'll get it tested before I buy. Pretty sick of getting bum batteries.
 

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Save yourself the trouble. Go find a lith. battery and be done with it. Pull it out for winter storage and let sit in the house until ready to take it back out and ride. No need to trickle charge it.

Now there is a whole lot of choices of lith batt. from numerous folks.....some fly by night some not. Have found ballistic batteries to be a reliable form of batt choice and usually very cost effective compared to others.


The link might not have your bike specifically listed, but the 8cell or 12 cell will work just fine. Its small enough to rotate/flip the batt. so you have the poles on the correct side. May need some semi ridged foam padding to stuff in the voids. Might be able to find them cheaper but just posted a link to take give you an idea as to what you should be looking for.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400765301788?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2661&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 

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Motobatt,cheap and never had any problems.

cheers eddy

ps: also cheap does not mean narsty
Cheap means cheap...now, inexpensive, that does not mean narsty.....:stickpoke
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not sure I'm the fit for a lithium battery. My bike sees temps between -8 and 35℃ so I'm a bit weary.

My Yuasa was able to start the bike this morning and weakly got it running after work. My local bike shop has a new YTZ10S for $156CDN in stock, so I'm swinging by tomorrow, will load test mine and if it fails will buy the new one.
I'm thinking that my previous electrical issues took their toll on the battery with multiple boosts and excessive shorting.
 

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I think even the best have varying levels of quality. Last year I replaced a Diehard in a midsize pickup that was nine years old, she had the receipt. I got my brutale in 07, ran the yuasa for 4 yrs. and it's still running a sport quad today.
 
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