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I spent the day yesterday tearing into my new F4, doing all my planned mods. Here's what I noted.

1. Many frame and engine fasteners were loose. I checked over the entire bike and found about 10 that would have rattled loose in short order. 3 were on the sump cover. Bike is brand new.

2. The weight on the radiator is excessive. I noted this when replacing the fan blades and doing a remote switch mod. After reading the threads on the cracked top brackets I began looking around. I just saw a recent thread about shops in NZ fitting a lower radiator support and I came up with the same idea yesterday. The lower radiator support isn't really a support, but rather a simple bracket with rubber grommets to pull the bottom of the radiator into proper orientation. I fashioned my own bracket out of a length of aluminum. If I was into the aggrevation, I'd yank the radiator and redo the top brackets to spread the load

3. Getting to the idle stop screw between the inboard throttle bodies is a MOFO. I had to use a pick to pull all the yellow paint out of it before carefully backing off the screw to reset the tps.

4. ECU removal was a breeze. Smart design. Somebody tell Ducati.

5. The DNA air filter is plug n play, unlike the BMC. No mods necessary for fitment.

6. The stock exhaust isn't nearly as heavy as I'm used to. I was expecting a far greater weight savings. I'm guessing I only saved a few pounds with a stainless header/mid and ti slip-ons.

7. I don't know why MV uses a double-spring setup on the throttle setup, unless it's a safety thing. Detaching the outboard spring really helps the feel IMHO.

8. I tried to come up with a different design for the dreaded airbox wellnut setup, but in the end just replaced with new ones.

9. Coming up with weight savings will be tough. Carbon can do a bit - air runners, airbox. Aluminum tank and wheels. The problem is the motor. It's a lump. They shaved weight off the new RR, but the R needs to go on a 30 pound diet to be competitive with other liter class rockets. Of course, most of us didn't purchase it because it was light.
 

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Desmo,

I too share your concern about the weight of the radiator assy hanging from those two small brackets. I looked at the NZ bracket thread and fail to see how that helps support the weight. Stabilizes them but doesn't bear weight. What did you do differently and what was your thinking behind what you did?

Lee
 

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The TPS should be set electronically via special software. The throttle stop screw is set at the factory for a specific opening angle, and the TPS reset feature calibrates the ECU to consider the current value from the TPS itself to correspond to that angle. I don't know how your adjustment will work, but I would not recommend that method.
 

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Hi Desmotimes, nice write up, you mentioned the wellnuts.....I removed mine and pressed in small plastic raw bolts (with a bit of silicon adhesive for extra grip), they still alow the fitment of the original screws into the plastic and have worked perfect for 1000's of miles, just dont overtighten them! May help???:):)
 

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I spent the day yesterday tearing into my new F4, doing all my planned mods. Here's what I noted.



I tried to come up with a different design for the dreaded airbox wellnut setup, but in the end just replaced with new ones.

QUOTE]

how's this help you?? I used these (picture) on my bike after getting tired of having to take the air box off hen that little rubber well nut rips and the threaded part drops into the box. Just have to use a set of pliers to turn the jagged edges back to being flat.... I found some better screws to insert into the fasteners from home depot but any hardware shop should have the goods...hope this helps..... and after about a thousand miles re-check the clearances as mine have changed just enough to make a difference




also... on a different note.... please check the gap between the bottom fan and the headers when everything is back together (except fairings). I came across this problem by chance when I was removing my lower radiator to get the last drops of coolant out. My headers (arrow Ti) were rubbing against the fan housing and almost wore through my headers!!!
To fix this I added a few small washers on the back side of the mount that holds the lower fan assembly to the motor block (not the 3 holed triangle mount, but the one that the triangle fixes to between the headers and to the block). dont put too many washers or the fairings won't fit back on. I'll try to get pics up so they can give a better idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Those fasteners are the ticket, but since I have stash of 50 of the 4mm wellnuts, I stuck with them. I'd prefer a dzus setup, but I don't exactly need to get into the airbox often, so it's no big deal. The placement of those wellnuts is brilliant -- direct shot for the brass insert to fall into the intake. My bracket looks similar to the one from the NZ pic. I'll be making a batch. Same attaching points too. I tried the left side, but couldn't find a suitable spot. There isn't a whole lot of attaching points that you can use. TPS was reset with VDSTS software to 2.3 degrees. If you replace the ECU you have to zero out the butterflies and reset the TPS. Piece of cake. I know what I'm doing, but thanks for the concern lizzardo. Good tip to watch the path of the impeller. I'll be checking for interference when I install the remote fan switch kit. :)
 

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TPS was reset with VDSTS software to 2.3 degrees. If you replace the ECU you have to zero out the butterflies and reset the TPS. Piece of cake. I know what I'm doing, but thanks for the concern lizzardo.
Glad to hear it. The newer ECU makes for a few differences from my what Ducatis need. I've had some helpful pointers from others and like to pass them along. When I changed my ECU, it thought my throttle was 8 degrees instead of 2.3, but the software reset cleared that up. I was worried that if you closed the throttle butterflies too much, you'd get the problem the early 750s had: so much vacuum it makes it hard to reopen the throttles.

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I used to miss the old 1.6 ecu and using a multimeter to measure the millivolts of the tps, but resetting the tps with software based on tps zero is a breeze once you can access to the stop screw. 8 degrees vs 2.3 degrees is a whopping difference. I don't even know if the bike would run with it being that much off. Ducati's have been using the same tps setup since 2003. The 5SM is very much like the 5.9 in Ducatis.
 

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The brand new ECU I installed had never been calibrated to a bike, so needed to be initially set. The primary symptom of it being that far off was an idle speed over 1800 rpm.

I've got a 5.9 in my ST4S, but it's a 2002, so still uses the old style TPS. I agree that there's no reason to feel overly nostalgic over the old adjustment method. At least, not once you've spent the money on the software.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I was fortunate enough to purchase the software before they began charging for each variant of ecu. $199 isn't that hard to swallow, but I think the pro unit is now upwards of $800. I think I paid $350 for it 7 years ago. The nice thing is that software upgrades are free.
 

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Hi Desmotimes, nice write up, you mentioned the wellnuts.....I removed mine and pressed in small plastic raw bolts (with a bit of silicon adhesive for extra grip), they still alow the fitment of the original screws into the plastic and have worked perfect for 1000's of miles, just dont overtighten them! May help???:):)
Hi Chris, watch the silicon, most silicons are ok with oil but they do not like petrol, petrol sort of destroys it:jsm:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update 2/9/08 - '07 F41000R

1. Rigged my own manual fan switch to go with the Muzzy fans. Works like a charm. The key is to get the fans on early --- 170 degrees or less. Still can't hold it's own at idle, but it helps a lot in terms of slowing the temp spike.
2. You have to gently bend the fan blades of the Muzzy fans or else some of them will contact the radiator. The fan on the lower radiator was banging on mine. I'm used to having to do the same on Ducatis.
2. Installing the Impeller mod next. I think that will do for the heat. Last resort is to add a fan, but I don't think that will be necessary. Nice to know that mod was successful though.
3. Lower radiator support is shiite. Rubber grommets melt from the heat. Made my own bracket, like the mod from the shop in NZ. Hold the lower radiator firm to eliminate the shaking that stresses the top radiator mount.
4. Battery location makes it VERY easy to short things out when disconnecting the battery leads. I fashioned a piece of rubber to line the frame rail there.
5. Reflashed ECU eliminated ALL the low rpm surges/stumbles and other irregularities.
6. TPS reset left the rpm too high, so I reset and then backed out the idle stop screw to 1.7 degrees. Idles fine a 1500, below that it struggles.
 
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