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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought some aftermarket LED indicators which have integrated brake/running light on the rear and integrated running light on the front.

The fact they were sold as "easy to install" was an attraction but I'm now told by the seller that I need to "physically wire them into the wiring loom".

I need to decide whether to get a refund because this job is beyond me or whether to have a go.

Where best to join the new wires to the existing loom assuming I can find the right wire to join it to? And what is the best way to join them? The new indicators and their load resistors have what I'd describe as bullet connectors on them.

If it helps, the new rear indicators have four wires each (black, red, yellow, blue = negative, brake, rear position, turn) and the front have three wires each (black, white, yellow = negative, front position, indicator).

On the MV, the three wires which disappear into the rear light assembly are black, white and brown and they connect into a connector which has different colours emerging from the other side.

You'll guess by now I have no previous experience of motorbike wiring / rewiring.

Any advice appreciated - even if it's send 'em back!
 

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What would really help here is knowing what year and model MV you are working on....
 
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Well, now...since the 2015 Brutale 800RR comes with LED turn signals, the load resistors are not required.

From which company did you purchase the signal kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Maybe its different here in the UK. My 2015 model has an old-fashioned single bulb for each indicator. I bought these and these from Design Corse
 

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Hmmmm, I'll have a look at mine.
 

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wiring them into the bike is not difficult but you will need resistors if your bike does not currently have LED. Do the new signals have 2 or 3 wires
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I do have load resistors - bought them with the indicators.

See original question for description of wires: 4 on rear and 3 on front (because they include brake lights and running lights).

If they were just indicators then I think I would just need to buy a connector to go to the original turn signal connector (annoying that it was not supplied given that it is advertised for my specific bike), but the brake lights and running lights are the added complication.
 

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@Samosa: With About 5 minutes of research through the Maintenance Manual, it is shown that these lights, as I suspected, are LED bulbs from new.

They are 6W and you shouldn't need those load resistors.

B3 Turn Signal Lights.jpg

Now, if you could kindly tell us the product you bought, and perhaps post a picture or tow of the parts you want to install, then we can probably help you get on with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Attached is an image is from manual for my bike, clearly showing the bulb, not LED. (Not sure how to embed the photo in within this text).

In the thread above, which you replied to a few minutes later, I said:
Maybe its different here in the UK. My 2015 model has an old-fashioned single bulb for each indicator. I bought these and these from Design Corse
This includes the links to the product I bought (with photos and wiring diagrams).
 

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This comes as a shock to many people: MV manuals are not always that up-to-date as supplied with the vehicle. You are looking at a 2012 document for basic guidance. I am looking at Edition 2 of the Workshop Frame Manual. I believe Edition 2 is the latest information as it was published in 2014.

I also know that the manuals do not always reflect as built conditions.

I will have a look at my actual bulbs today. Have you looked at YOUR BIKE's actual bulbs?
 

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I do have load resistors - bought them with the indicators.

See original question for description of wires: 4 on rear and 3 on front (because they include brake lights and running lights).

If they were just indicators then I think I would just need to buy a connector to go to the original turn signal connector (annoying that it was not supplied given that it is advertised for my specific bike), but the brake lights and running lights are the added complication.

Many products are advertised for specific bikes as they have a "universal fit" that, with a little knowledge and skill can be easily integrated into the advertised bike. While this is advertised as "will fit", it is not advertised as "plug-and-play". The implication is that the consumer will have to figure out how to make it work in their specific application.

In your case, you have chosen to complicate matters by adding features for which your wiring is not specifically designed; therefore, you will have to find a running light feed and you will have to pick a brake light feed point. This can be done by using piggy-back/Quick Splice connectors which nip into the supply wires without disturbing too much of the original configuration.

Quick Splice.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Many thanks Silentservice703. I'll do a bit more research before next purchase!

I can confirm that the indicator and bulb on my bike is identical to the manual I have. I've even removed the bayonet fit bulb and reinstalled.

I'll maybe give it a go with the clips you've described.

Thanks again.
 

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Load resistors SUCK, do it right and get an LED flasher unit if you have a stand alone flasher unit. If the flash rate is controlled by the ECU then you are stuck with load resistors. ?

I always try to make wiring adapter harnesses for things like replacement blinkers that use or plug into the OEM connectors vs splicing into the sheath with those tapping connectors.

Cycleterminal.com has all kinds of connectors and the crimp tools needed to do a professional level job.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html
 

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@Samosa: did you finally figure out what to do? I kinda fell into the same mistake. I spent some time looking into the wiring and it might be a longer project than what I originally thought. now I’m wondering what to do with it :|
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sorry @rocky.ong I only just spotted your question. Been out ridin'! :grin2:

I returned the combination indicators/riding lights/brake lights and exchanged them for the indicator only version. That meant the wiring was easier I've just left a review here
 
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