MV Agusta Forum banner

1 - 20 of 84 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,500 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here are pictures of sprocket and wheel nuts and what happens when you use the wrong tool
Or the right tool incorrectly

Front row L>R
1.good
2&3 socket not on all the way

Back row L>R
1,2&3 56mm straight socket
4.2 3/16" straight socket
5. used a pipe wrench and hammer and punch:surprise:

2nd picture
Contact marks on TAPERED sockets that's full contact the way it's supposed to be :grin2:

3rd picture SpeedyMoto TAPERED socket part #04-0203 with the 1/2" drive all the way through
[email protected]
866-375-0727
AND THEY GIVE A DISCOUNT TO FORUM MEMBERS

4th picture correct tool for removing wheel and sprocket nuts... I use a CP-734 425lbft of torque set on 5 of 10, if you don't have one, take your tapered socket and breaker bar to the local tire store and have them remove it, then reinstall the nut and ride home....
and do whatever you needed the wheel off for

5th picture correct lube for the axle threads.....DO NOT PUT IT ON THE TAPER

6th picture the best way to lock the rear wheel.....I DIDN'T REMOVE THE ARROW THUNDER FOR THE PICTURE

DO NOT LOCK THE REAR WHEEL BY PUTTING THE TRANSMISSION IN GEAR....THE GEARS ARE CASE
HARDENED AND CAN CRACK

7th picture......When your cracked gear breaks and locks your countershaft......
My friend Bazza at 175mph in the banking a Daytona......not what you want to do
Official explanation.....the tire, look at the picture, tires are fine
Bazza told me the transmission locked....I believe him, look for the video on YouTube, the failure is instantaneous

AND PULLING THE CLUTCH DOES NOTHING!!!!!

8th picture set up for showing the taper

9th picture......the taper!!!!!

Why you use air impacts and not fucking breaker bars......Ferrari F1 pit stop

 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
So where did you source the correct tapered socket from?
I'm in the UK and bought the first combo frt/rear socket off Amazon, advertised as fitting the TV (it didn't). Then found one for Ducati's. Bought that, costing over £60 but had to machine the internal 'peaks' down to make it fit. Did the job, but wrapped the nut with PTFE tape beforehand, to try and prevent it marking the nut, with reasonable success.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,629 Posts
Same here, bought an Oberon alloy socket on advice from my dealer, the mechanic did admit that they get through a few as they eventually break. I could see as soon as I offered it up it was a poor fit. Measured the alleged tapper with vernier calliper and there wasn't any that I could measure. Did some school boy trigonometry and established that there should be a significant measurable difference which there wasn't. This was returned for a refund as it was advertised at tapered when it plainly wasn't.

Next, and on advice from this forum, I ordered, at some considerable expense (when considering the addition of shipping and duty) a SpeedyMoto socket from the States. Stainless steel and will outlast me and the bike. Fits firmly on the nut but again no perceivable tapper. Needed to use a rattle gun to get the wheel nut off which has marred it slightly. Whilst all aspects of the bike are things of beauty a few marks on a nut that needs to be removed and checked quite often I'm not going to loose too much sleep over.

In the pursuit of a tapered socket, and one that wasn't as weighty as the SpeedyMoto item, I did buy another alloy one from Germany. This has a stepped internal design that at least tips a hat towards fitting a tapered nut. This is carried in my tool roll when on tour, just in case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
565 Posts
Instead of impact wrench I use a breaker bar with extension. This was the advise I got from a suspension shop. The advise was to apply controlled force and let it move on its own. No need to try to loosen in one movement. Push with body and since you have all that leverage you will be applying enough force... give it time and it will move.

The socket I use is steel. Don't remember if advertised as tapered but it fits all the way on to the nut. Some from a local ducati shop(bent on them trying to change me rear tire) and from a friend with a ducati did not seat fully. I've tried a few and as you can see from above threads it may not even be tapered if they say it is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,629 Posts
I bought this one Oberon: https://www.designcorse.com/products/mv-agusta-f3-dragster-800-rear-wheel-removal-tools


Seems to fit well.
Should I be concerned?

Hi Eddie, the description on that put me right off.

Says stainless steel in header text yet says hard anodised further down the page... I'm confused... anodising is a treatment for aluminium... The rest of the text inspires no confidence.

I returned the Oberon I ordered some time back. My dealership at the time used them but said that they broke every now and then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,459 Posts
I broke an oberon one . Now got a motocorse one I think from design corse . I make sure I undo the nut every two or three months instead of every two or three years at tyre change time . Comes undune fairly easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
180 Posts
Great bit of info Noel, particularly the ending. I read a bit about that incident....horrific moment for Barry Sheene and for those there at the time. The recommended torque setting for the wheel nut on my F4 is around the 200 NMs. I don't take it to that torque setting as it seems over the top, particularly with the circlip as insurance. This reduces some of the issues you've described.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Here is a picture of sprocket and wheel nuts and what happens when you use the wrong tool
Or the right tool incorrectly

Front row L>R
1.good
2&3 socket not on all the way

Back row L>R
1,2&3 56mm straight socket
4.2 3/16" straight socket
5. used a pipe wrench and hammer and punch:surprise:

2nd picture
Contact marks on TAPERED sockets that's full contact the way it's supposed to be :grin2:

3rd picture SpeedyMoto TAPERED socket part #04-0203
[email protected]
866-375-0727

4th picture correct tool for removing wheel and sprocket nuts... i use a CP-734 425lbft of torque set on 5 of 10, if you don't have one, take your tapered socket and breaker bar to the local tire store and have them remove it, then reinstall the nut and ride home....
and do whatever you needed the wheel off for

5th picture correct lube for the axle threads.....DO NOT PUT IT ON THE TAPER

6th picture the best way to lock the rear wheel.....I DIDN'T REMOVE THE ARROW THUNDER FOR THE PICTURE
PUT THE HOOKS IN FROM THE BACK SIDE AND PAD THEM
DO NOT LOCK THE REAR WHEEL BY PUTTING THE TRANSMISSION IN GEAR....THE GEARS ARE CASE
HARDENED AND CAN CRACK

7th picture......When your cracked gear breaks and locks your countershaft......
My friend Bazza at 175mph in the banking a Daytona......not what you want to do
Official explanation.....the tire, look at the picture, tires are fine
Bazza told me the transmission locked....I believe him, look for the video on YouTube, the failure is instantaneous
Hi A very interesting post. I have recently purchased a 2016 F4 RR and new to MV. I have read conflicting information about which year the tapered socket was dropped in place of the straight socket. Using a vernier my wheel nut looks and appears to measure parallel. Would you agree that my bike should have a "non-tapered" socket?
Many thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Hi A very interesting post. I have recently purchased a 2016 F4 RR and new to MV. I have read conflicting information about which year the tapered socket was dropped in place of the straight socket. Using a vernier my wheel nut looks and appears to measure parallel. Would you agree that my bike should have a "non-tapered" socket?
Many thanks
Please excuse the muddle with the socket and nut!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
521 Posts
so if I would like to buy a 55mm socket for my TVL (front and rear)
wich one should I purchase??
I'm getting confused here wich one is now the right and good one??
I want to change the cushion and need this tool.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
Great tutorial Noel, thank you!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,334 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,629 Posts
That's the socket, well one of them anyway, that I have. I maintain that there is no taper to speak of. However, it fits snuggly due to the inner boss. It has marred my nut slightly due to limited point of contact though I now use a sacrificial wrap of tape to prevent it getting worse. I do have an alloy socket that I take on tour but the Speedymoto one is my goto tool for the job. Will outlast me and the bike.

Expect to get stung for a chunk of duty importing into Europe from the States.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
That's the socket, well one of them anyway, that I have. I maintain that there is no taper to speak of. However, it fits snuggly due to the inner boss. It has marred my nut slightly due to limited point of contact though I now use a sacrificial wrap of tape to prevent it getting worse. I do have an alloy socket that I take on tour but the Speedymoto one is my goto tool for the job. Will outlast me and the bike.

Expect to get stung for a chunk of duty importing into Europe from the States.
The speedymoto socket that I have does not look like the one in the first post. PN 04-0203 but, does work and does not try to roll off the nut. However I used my 1/2 air impact to loosen the nut.
The nut on my bike has experienced slight nicks, but I can live with them.

Torquing the nut is best done with an assistant holding the rear brake, Turismo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,629 Posts
Is that aluminium or steel Gero? Google Translate didn't answer the question for me... Will be interested to hear your findings if you do purchase this one.

The front wheel nut on the MV isn't polygonal, that one wont fit. I believe only the earlier F4s had a polygonal nut for the front.

Here are my findings on the matter in an earlier thread.
 
1 - 20 of 84 Posts
Top