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Discussion Starter #1
Well I finally got around to replacing the Hub on my Brutale 910S. I had a spare hub that I had purchased some time ago from a forum member and I replaced the roller bearing in it a while back with one supplied by Noel. The existing needle bearing was thoroughly cleaned and re greased.

The help available on this Forum was invaluable in stepping me through the job and by way of thanks I would like to offer up my experience to anyone else considering doing it for the first time.

Firstly, I managed to fit the new bearing by freezing it overnight and heating the hub to 140C, it dropped in, no need for a press.

I don't have a suspension point in my garage ceiling so I supported the bike on two axle stands under the foot peg brackets, small pieces of rubber for protection.

I couldn't budge my wheel nut with a 3/4 drive Makita rattle gun so soaked the nut overnight in WD40, it came off first attempt the following day.

One major issue I had during disassembly was that the axle had seized in the hub, or more accurately, the bearing inner races. I was initially reluctant to flog the crap out of it on the off chance that I had missed a detail somewhere however after checking and double checking I found the answer by searching the Forum. Luckily I had a substantial piece of aluminium that fitted nicely over the end of the spindle to which I applied much brute force with my largest hammer. Eventually it came free.

After cleaning everything up reassembly was relatively straightforward.

I think I caught this just in time, the pictures tell the story pretty well.
 

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Hi Sundodger,

What year and how many kilometers or miles has your bike covered to have a bearing in that condition ?

Thanks
 

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@Sundodger: Nice catch. It is amazing how much rust can accumulate.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The bike was manufactured in 04-2007 but from the paperwork that came with the bike it wasn't delivered to the first owner until 22/11/2011. The mileage now is around 18,000 ish from memory.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I didn't do a break out torque test when I pulled it apart but it took my 3/4 drive rattle gun to loosen it and when I torqued it back up it came back to where I marked it prior to disassembly, safety pin is in exactly the same spot as before.

Being the third owner its impossible to know if the bike has been subjected to a pressure washer in its time. Just over a year ago the swing arm assembly was 'decontaminated' by the dealer who installed a leaking 'sealed' battery, how they did this without taking the bike apart is anyones guess. The corrosion on the axle, whilst not pretty, wasn't deep and cleaned up very easily.

I'll just put it down as one of life's great mysteries and start the next Winter project, replacing the plastic fuel pump fittings, hoses and filter. Hopefully no surprises there.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
All of the good advice on the Forum noted and followed thanks Noel. Before starting the job I did a lot of reading here and followed the service manual. The only thread(s) I must have missed relevant to the hub swap was corrosion stopping the axle from being withdrawn by hand but a quick brew break and some more research put my mind at ease before I resorted to a bit of brute force.

As shitty as everything looked when I pulled the hub apart, and the fact that it was as dry as a Nun's nasty, surprisingly there was no evidence of any play in the wheel prior to me starting the job and the hub didn't run hot. It was just something I wanted to do for peace of mind.

A different set up I realise however I've had final drive bearings fail on two Beemers I've owned, an 1150GS which went just past the 100,000 km mark and a 1200GS Adventure that failed during the warranty period, less than 10,000kms! Naturally, once it's happened to you before, taking a couple of seconds before each ride to check the rim for play becomes almost second nature.
 

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Good on you for checking and servicing the hub,you dodged a bullet there.
So many owners and dealers seem to forget about the old hub.:wink2:
 
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