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Hi just need some feedback looking at a 2009 MV Augusta F4 1078 312RR
18,000 km on the clock very well looked after
Are they a great bike ride and any known issues
Thanks
mvf42.jpg
 

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Clearly a great bike and the one you've pictured looks tip top condition.

For a full rundown though, current owner @312R Dan will be one of the best to offer all you need to know!
 

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That looks very nice.

I've just recently bought one, it's a fantastic engine and a wonderful machine to ride. I'm sure you'd be delighted with it.

There are the usual things to look out for like every bike;
Tyres, fork seals, discs and pads, chain, check for any damage, evidence of service history, when was the oil, brake fluids, spark plugs, filters and tyres last changed? Factor in doing any of these if they haven't been done any time recently.

Specific to the MV seems to be over tightened rear hubs (though there is an obvious decal with the torque value on the hub) check for any bead distortion on the rims as they are forged aluminium and any hard pothole could cause the bed rim to deflect a bit.

The fuel lines use plastic fittings, these can embrittle with age, I would expect this would probably be fine at 10 years old but you may want to upgrade to metal in the near future and while there you would probably want to replace the in tank fuel filter and hoses. Apparently they can run hot, some owners upgrade the water impeller and fit a different ecu to bring the fans on earlier and re-map the bike to run cooler (some of these mods may have been done so don't let that put you off). That said if it has run fine for 18,000kms as it is then probably not a worry, but if you're sat in traffic/traffic lights a lot then bear it in mind. It's worth having a look to see if there are any signs of overheating around the exhaust manifold area on the fairings.

Mine is the same age as yours, when I bought it, it didn't like cold starting. The bike would sit for long periods and the previous owner had previously sent it away because of starting difficulties. There was an invoice in the file for draining contaminated fuel and fitting new fuel filter/in tank hoses. Have a look at the fuel pump through the tank aperture and make sure it's all good. I drained the fuel on mine which turned out to be about 20 months old, refilled with Super Unleaded and it roared into life first time and has every time since!

Check all the lights work and horn, you have to run the engine for the headlight although sidelights will come on with the ignition.You should receive the presentation pack with the user guides and CD rom, the tool kit which may be under the seat and 2 keys. Check the battery is ok. It looks well looked after with no damage to the side plates which many seem to have, how many owners has it had?

I'm by no means any authority on these being new to them myself, but I did a fair amount of reading so this is just my 2p.

Enjoy
Nito
 

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As a victim of broken cam drive sprocket bolts and subsequent head/valve damage, I'd be sure to check those cam sprocket bolts as soon as possible. There have been several engine failures due to lack of thread locker on the bolts (as specified in the factory manual) and this is easy to check with the valve cover off. I know this is a rare problem but it will ruin your day if it happens.

Eric
 

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Great looking bike.Same as mine.
Most items to look for have been covered.
Plastic fuel fittings-change to CPC metal
Hub service-when was it last done.
Radiator support bracket-a must.
Check for melted cooling fans.
Other than that.Enjoy,they are a beast.;)
 

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That front does look pretty crap actually, it's a definite need to sort out thing. If the owner cut corners with that, what else have they skimped on?

With regards to the exhausts, one I looked at had the same thing, can they be easily realigned twisted back or is that a case of the pipe being proper bent?
 

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I don't think you can just bend it back in shape. I have seen quite a few where the tailpipes don't line up very well. I don't know if that's how they were or if it's the result of an off. Mine a lined up nicely.
 

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Those exhaust pan-pipes have probably been off the bike for some maintenance reason. Realigning those pipes when reinstalling is something that takes care and a mindful eye.
 
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I agree with @silentservice703 ......
If you look closely at the side on pic of the "312" closeup, it seems like there's a rivet missing in the exhaust tip fastening -- Could indicate that the exhaust has been cored, or at least taken apart...
 

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Best thing to look out for is...
trees ,
stupid drivers,
and not being able to control your right wrist!
 

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First thing to look at is spelling the name right!
 

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[QUOTE="Nito, post: 2635319,
Specific to the MV seems to be over tightened rear hubs (though there is an obvious decal with the torque value on the hub)

I'm by no means any authority on these being new to them myself, but I did a fair amount of reading so this is just my 2p.

Enjoy
Nito
[/QUOTE]
Nito;
Go read the Hub Thread
The sticker isn't on the Hub, it's on the swing arm
THE STICKER IS INCORRECT
I tested the pinch bolt torque needed to collapse the 3810-2RS bearing 0.001"
DO NOT GO OVER 20Nm/15lbft
I've sold over 1,600 3810-2RS bearings with ZERO FAILURES
I sell them for $34 + shipping the retail price here is ~$145
Yes, I know how to test them, I spent 5 years in the Engineering Dept of HiShear Corp, an Aerospace fastener manufacturer
 

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[QUOTE="Nito, post: 2635319,
Specific to the MV seems to be over tightened rear hubs (though there is an obvious decal with the torque value on the hub)

I'm by no means any authority on these being new to them myself, but I did a fair amount of reading so this is just my 2p.

Enjoy
Nito
Nito;
Go read the Hub Thread
The sticker isn't on the Hub, it's on the swing arm
THE STICKER IS INCORRECT
I tested the pinch bolt torque needed to collapse the 3810-2RS bearing 0.001"
DO NOT GO OVER 20Nm/15lbft
I've sold over 1,600 3810-2RS bearings with ZERO FAILURES
I sell them for $34 + shipping the retail price here is ~$145
Yes, I know how to test them, I spent 5 years in the Engineering Dept of HiShear Corp, an Aerospace fastener manufacturer
[/QUOTE]

Hi Noel, I’ve since read your thread and the work you’ve done etc which is all very methodically carried out so I don’t doubt your testing.

Out of interest, if a hub has been torqued to that setting once before, will the bearing already be damaged?

thanks
Nito
 

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Nito;
The internal clearances of a 3810-2RS bearing is 0.0010" - 0.0016"
So a loose one is more likely to survive
That said the only way to check is remove the hub and rotate the
bearing with your fingers, if it's bad you'll feel the roughness
If you see heat stripes on the inner race it's done too
MV hub pinch bolts, torque to 15lbft/20Nm no more!
 
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Nito;
The internal clearances of a 3810-2RS bearing is 0.0010" - 0.0016"
So a loose one is more likely to survive
That said the only way to check is remove the hub and rotate the
bearing with your fingers, if it's bad you'll feel the roughness
If you see heat stripes on the inner race it's done too
MV hub pinch bolts, torque to 15lbft/20Nm no more!
Thank you, pesky imperial system!! 0.0254mm - 0.0406mm basically not a lot of clearance!

I shall have to look into it and inspect at some point.
Cheers
Nito
 
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