I guess the standard answer is to take it easy for the first 1000 miles or so, not to over rev the motor and generally take things easy, because unless you have had the same model before, you will be learning how the bike handles, it's characteristics etc too.
From the mechanical viewpoint, the motor manufacturing tolerances are far more accurate than they were say 30 - 40 years ago, so the 'running in ' period isn't as critical as it was back then. However you don't want to prematurely wear things like piston rings, cylinder bores etc. so take it easy and get the oil changed early. If possible, be at the workshop yourself when the oil is first changed anfd see if any swarf (metallic parts) are present in the old oil when it is drained out.
Sorry if I'm teaching Grandma how to suck eggs, but it would be just plain stupid to rev the knackers off any new bike (or car for that matter) straight out of the crate!
I have had probably 15 new motorcycles in my years, and have asked the same questions each time! This has been the discussion of so many posts and to an extent almost panic amongst owners (including myself)
I mean you buy the bike of your dreams and the worry of not doing the right thing in the first 1000kms is going to be a concern, as you have to live with the result of your 'run in' process for the term of your ownership.
And to top it all of the owners manual devotes about one paragraph to the issue!
The lesson I can share is I have yet to hear of a disaster when following the commonsense approach as detailed in the manual.
Just treat the motor (and all other components, as they also have to wear in) with respect. Increase the load on the motor as described and avoid binding or lugging the motor in too lower gear for the road speed required.
Keep the motor working in the designated rev range, and like Kamran suggested make sure the oil is clean on first service, they don't use mineral 'run in 'oil like they used to, so that gives you an idea of how well these things are manufactured.
I have seen a photo somewhere of the dyno rig used to load brand new F4 motors in the factory, each (and every) motor is 'run' for 20 mins, and the photo I saw showed the exhaust headers glowing red! So you really have no chance to really inflict damage..
Its keeping the motor in the same rpm range constantly in the motors early stages of life that causes the bores to shine and bind up
I was with the mechanic when my 1st service oil was changed...if they are good they will offer advice on what they sense from the results of the first 1000kms.
My bike is just starting to develop great mid range torque and rev flexibility even having done 1000kays, so don't think the job is completed at this point.
Treat it well, but remember that this motor has been designed to perform