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Discussion Starter #1
My F4 1000 has currently idling at around 1400 rpm. The manual says it should be around 1150. I have contacted the dealer I have just bought the bike from and they tell me when they pdi bikes idle speed is checked and the bike is at the right idle - they just run a bit faster than most bikes. Can anyone shed any light on this?
 

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As the manual says it should be around the 1150 mark, at 1400rpm it will overheat worse than normal in traffic, probabaly needs a co/balance set up now it has loosened off a bit
 

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Adjusting the idle on the MV is not an easy task. Hell, I'm not even sure how you'd go about it now with the 1kR motors.

On my F4 1kS, there is an idle speed screw, which can only be reached if the gas tank is off the bike. However, that screw may not have the adjustment you need. As a matter of fact, on my F4 I wanted to turn the idle down after I had adjusted the CO trim pot to a new setting for smoother power delivery. Unfortunately, the idle set screw was already fully seated! There was no way for me to turn the idle down at that point. Bummer.

So I resorted to adjusting the CO trim pot back a bit. I think I've got it pretty good now. She runs beautifully when warm. And the idle is like 1300.

If you want to change the idle, the CO trim pot is one way to do it.

Alex
 

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I just checked mine.

It's right at 1400 aswell, and it's new also.

I wonder if they will adjust this on the first service.

Since you just picked it up it may be due to the engine being "tighter" since it's going through break-in.

Again I got the same reading on mine.
 

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sandy where do u live ? soulrider is in GA , it might be the o2 sensor on air an fuel mix , how about the idle circuit being closed all the way . my 1000r had a manuel choke on it
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I live in the U.K. The choke(fast idle) makes no difference to the tick over if you move it when the engine is running. I have conacted my local dealer and they told me to wait a couple of weeks to see how things go, if I need to they will then have a look. Only trouble is the cold weather is soon to be upon us and so it will be time to put the bike to bed till spring. So I will most probably have to wait till next year!!!
 

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sandybandy said:
I live in the U.K. The choke(fast idle) makes no difference to the tick over if you move it when the engine is running. I have conacted my local dealer and they told me to wait a couple of weeks to see how things go, if I need to they will then have a look. Only trouble is the cold weather is soon to be upon us and so it will be time to put the bike to bed till spring. So I will most probably have to wait till next year!!!
The fast idle should make a difference, if it doesn't it means the cables are adjusted wrongly, and require setting under the tank, the set up procedure gives a maximum the fast idle should lift the rpm by, from memory it's around 2200rpm.

An idle speed of 1400rpm will not help the MV's temperature at all in slow/stationary traffic, looks like most 1000S's require a full set up when they loosen off a bit and the injection mechanical stuff settles down, your dealer should be able to sort it, but after saying that there are so many out there that appear clueless regarding anything but an oil change. :jsm:

James's FAQ page has all the information for DIY merchants, or indeed to take to someone who can perform this task.
Ducati's are set up very similar, so any good Ducati tech would be able to sort it,
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the advice. I think i will get my dealer (3x motorcycles)to look at it, it all seems a bit fiddly to me!
 

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sandybandy said:
Thanks for the advice. I think i will get my dealer (3x motorcycles)to look at it, it all seems a bit fiddly to me!
Sandy? I would take it back armed with the relevant info, you know, idle speed, fast idle speed, any stalling issues, they can sort it, but I guess if they think they can get away with not doing it or bullshit they will!! :naughty:
 

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On my 750, the idle speed seems to be a bit under 1300rpm on the rpmmeter, I asked my mecanics to low it down a bit, but when checking it with the computer, idle speed is around 1150...
The rpmmeter of the MV doesn't seems really acurate, as my engine is cutting around 13500rpm on it with an MV eproom supposed to cut at 13900.
Hope it helped...
Have good rides!!
 

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I noticed the 2 screws on the base of the throttle cable were not snug. Can it be adjusted here, or would this have something to do with it.

I'm referring to the cables directly on the beside the triple tree/handle bars.
 

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hi
my idle seems to be at 1400 and again its from 3x motorcycles
i'll just have to wait till then for my 1st service and and get them to sort out my problems
if there gonna charge me 550 quid they can sort all the niggley problems out then for that price
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It seems that this problem is quite wide spread. So it might be true to say that infact it IS down to rev counter inaccuracy, and not down to dealer error!
 

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Now there's a coincidence, went out for a quick 1/2 hrs ride yesterday and noticed that the rev ctr was reading 1600rpm at idle, yet a few days ago it read 1400rpm at idle. Would having a scott oiler fitted make a difference to the idle setup??........ Its comming off anyway, just seems to make a mess of the rear wheel. Prefer to use the spray chain lube.
 

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I have never paid much attention to "factory spec" re: idle speed. It's a nice guideline but I prefer to set it wherever it idles smoothly, is not overly fast and gives good throttle response. FWIW I have the idle on my F4 set at 1050 taken off the rpm window from the PC on my laptop. The tach indicates roughly 1300 so yeah it's off some.
 

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Mmmmmm, interesting, so I have read the previous on ....how to set up the idle, but alas, in laymans terms would be an advantage. I am not a lover of dealers messin with the bike, so I prefer doing things in a more attentive manner. Not the usual times money and make the job pay syndrome. So Lee, hows it done.....setting the idle that is?????
 

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I believe the accepted method is to adjust the airscrews on the throttle bodies to achieve both vacuum balance between the TB's while staying within the acceptable CO range. The more they are turned in the richer the mixture and lower the rpm and vice versa. I don't do it that way and what I do is both time consuming and contrary to the factory's recommendation.

Hopefully someone else will chime in here and correct me if I'm wrong and give you better advice.
 

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WIth the stock ECU, I found that once the cat has been removed the idle goes up by about 100rpm.
 
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