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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
Just recently got my F3 and I'm wondering what to use to clean it? I currently have this stuff and am wondering if this is ok to use or if there is something else I should be looking at?

Also, what the best thing to use for cleaning the exhaust pipes and gaurd? This stuff doesn't work as well as I would like it to get them shiny.
 

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?

you wash your MV?:stickpoke

in 17,000mi i washed mine 3-4 times

~30% Simple Green and water does the wheels, calipers, discs, muffler end and motor

paint thinner on the chain and sprockets

dish soap for the rest

blow dry with an air hose

:drummer:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I ride in the rain. You would be surprised how fast rain+dirt make everything dirty.

Plus, this would be my first time washing my new baby. :p
 

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Carnauba wax is carnauba wax whether or not you pay 10 dollars for 8 oz's or 100 dollars its still the same carnauba wax. Polymer synthetic wax is a step up from Carnauba but still old technology when compared to the new products that are being produced. Lets put it this way, Carnauba wax was used to polish the horse and buggy (well not the horse but the buggy LOL!), and Carnauba wax is highly acidic, melts in direct sunlight cuz it has a very low melting point and when it does this it speeds up the oxidation process of the paint by superheating and frying the paint. Polymers (like Teflon) were introduced in the 60's. They are a step above Carnauba wax but still not as good as Glassplexin. Polymers don't filter out UV rays and they can crack fade and peel within 1 years time. Also Polymer wax has a low melting point, granted its not as low as carnauba wax, but its no where near GLARE's. GLARE is good up to 650 degs F so you can polish your exhaust pipes and it wont burn off. Try that with carnauba wax or synthetic wax and see what happens. I'll give you a clue, it doesn't look or smell good at all. LOL! GLARE with Glassplexin is the only product out there that actually bonds to the clearcoat or paint via, what's called in chemistry, a covalent bond. Waxes and polymers do not bond to paint molecularly. They only lay on top of the paint and do not last.
Glassplexin is a negatively charged silicate ionic compound that has chemical reactivity with the clearcoat or paint. When applied there is an exchange of electrons that occurs between the negative charged Glassplexin and the paint or clear coat bonding the two into one molecule. This transformation gives the paint a new chemical identity that now shares the properties of both paint and glass. Because of this, the newly transformed paint has a depth of gloss that is so optically clear that the gloss looks 3 dimensional. Not only that but the surface tension is increased, the new paint surface is super slick, and because it now shares glass properties it will filter UV rays because glass will filter out 98% of the suns UVA and UVB rays. There are test reports from Labs all over the world on this product including from HONDA.
This is all information I learned from doing research on polishes and waxes since I am so anal about what I use on my bikes and cars. I mean if you still want to use old inferior wax products then go for it. But 10 years down the road when your paint looks dingy and oxidized after applying so many coats of stuff that melts and ruins your paint and the other guy who used GLARE on his bike has a bike that looks better then the day that he bought it you will kick yourself in the pants. That's why I chose very carefully what I use and if I had a $20,000 bike (which I will very shortly and I cant wait ) then I would make sure that I use the absolute best and without a doubt after trying everything out there and I mean EVERYTHING I would never use anything but GLARE.
If Mitch Lanzini from Overhaulin uses GLARE on the custom FOOSE design Hot Rods that FOOSE has him paint in light of the fact that Mother's is paying FOOSE millions to endorse their product, that should tell you what the best product for your MV is.
It doesn't cost $100 a bottle but its not the cheapest product out there either. I believe it goes for around $30 for a 12 oz. bottle, but I know from personal experience that it is a very concentrated product and I get about 3-4 small cars out of one bottle so IMHO its well worth every penny. Let's put it this way you CANT NOT afford not to use it given the benefits vs the price of the one bottle. Did I mention that they also have the best swirl removing product, called GLARE Spider, I've ever used as well? Well they do. These chemists over there are on a roll. Also the GLARE Professional Polish can be used on not only the paint but also on Carbonfiber, glass, plastic, plexiglass, the clear windshields on bikes, Fiberglass, Aluminum, Chrome, and all metal alloys. The GLARE Turbo Action Wheel Cleaner is also another superb product from them. I use it for cleaning the brakedust, road grime, and chain grease sling and its a non acid base formula so you can use it without worying about if its going to damage the finish of your wheels or paint. Its also an Awesome product from GLARE!!! Everything they make is the best hands down!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
:wave:


Carnauba wax is carnauba wax whether or not you pay 10 dollars for 8 oz's or 100 dollars its still the same carnauba wax. Polymer synthetic wax is a step up from Carnauba but still old technology when compared to the new products that are being produced. Lets put it this way, Carnauba wax was used to polish the horse and buggy (well not the horse but the buggy LOL!), and Carnauba wax is highly acidic, melts in direct sunlight cuz it has a very low melting point and when it does this it speeds up the oxidation process of the paint by superheating and frying the paint. Polymers (like Teflon) were introduced in the 60's. They are a step above Carnauba wax but still not as good as Glassplexin. Polymers don't filter out UV rays and they can crack fade and peel within 1 years time. Also Polymer wax has a low melting point, granted its not as low as carnauba wax, but its no where near GLARE's. GLARE is good up to 650 degs F so you can polish your exhaust pipes and it wont burn off. Try that with carnauba wax or synthetic wax and see what happens. I'll give you a clue, it doesn't look or smell good at all. LOL! GLARE with Glassplexin is the only product out there that actually bonds to the clearcoat or paint via, what's called in chemistry, a covalent bond. Waxes and polymers do not bond to paint molecularly. They only lay on top of the paint and do not last.
Glassplexin is a negatively charged silicate ionic compound that has chemical reactivity with the clearcoat or paint. When applied there is an exchange of electrons that occurs between the negative charged Glassplexin and the paint or clear coat bonding the two into one molecule. This transformation gives the paint a new chemical identity that now shares the properties of both paint and glass. Because of this, the newly transformed paint has a depth of gloss that is so optically clear that the gloss looks 3 dimensional. Not only that but the surface tension is increased, the new paint surface is super slick, and because it now shares glass properties it will filter UV rays because glass will filter out 98% of the suns UVA and UVB rays. There are test reports from Labs all over the world on this product including from HONDA.
This is all information I learned from doing research on polishes and waxes since I am so anal about what I use on my bikes and cars. I mean if you still want to use old inferior wax products then go for it. But 10 years down the road when your paint looks dingy and oxidized after applying so many coats of stuff that melts and ruins your paint and the other guy who used GLARE on his bike has a bike that looks better then the day that he bought it you will kick yourself in the pants. That's why I chose very carefully what I use and if I had a $20,000 bike (which I will very shortly and I cant wait ) then I would make sure that I use the absolute best and without a doubt after trying everything out there and I mean EVERYTHING I would never use anything but GLARE.
If Mitch Lanzini from Overhaulin uses GLARE on the custom FOOSE design Hot Rods that FOOSE has him paint in light of the fact that Mother's is paying FOOSE millions to endorse their product, that should tell you what the best product for your MV is.
It doesn't cost $100 a bottle but its not the cheapest product out there either. I believe it goes for around $30 for a 12 oz. bottle, but I know from personal experience that it is a very concentrated product and I get about 3-4 small cars out of one bottle so IMHO its well worth every penny. Let's put it this way you CANT NOT afford not to use it given the benefits vs the price of the one bottle. Did I mention that they also have the best swirl removing product, called GLARE Spider, I've ever used as well? Well they do. These chemists over there are on a roll. Also the GLARE Professional Polish can be used on not only the paint but also on Carbonfiber, glass, plastic, plexiglass, the clear windshields on bikes, Fiberglass, Aluminum, Chrome, and all metal alloys. The GLARE Turbo Action Wheel Cleaner is also another superb product from them. I use it for cleaning the brakedust, road grime, and chain grease sling and its a non acid base formula so you can use it without worying about if its going to damage the finish of your wheels or paint. Its also an Awesome product from GLARE!!! Everything they make is the best hands down!!!
Can't tell if giving advice, or working for GLARE...:stickpoke

But thanks for the info.
 

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I use Chemtech CT18 SUPERWASH in a spray bottle for paint and pressure pack degreaser on wheels, chain etc. and Meguiar's polishing producsts.
AND HEEPS OF H2o :stickpoke
 

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Can't tell if giving advice, or working for GLARE...:stickpoke

But thanks for the info.

The Glare thing is a very old joke over here :D

I use spray polish shine drom Innotec. If I did not ride in the rain I just apply like that. The good thing is you can use it on plastic too. For the wheels I use WD40. Works perfect!
 

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My girlfriend says i have more cosmetics stuff for my bike than she does. :)

For the detailers among us:
When the bike has seen some rain with dirt on the road (yep that sometimes happens folks when you actually ride a bike) i handwash the bike with a lamb fur glove (Meguairs) and Meguairs Gold Class shampoo, dry it with a Meguairs Magic Towel. Prior to the washing i use PoorBoy's World Bug Squash wich helps to easy remove bugs and tar.

For light swirls i use Monello Raffini Finale and prior to that Monello Raffini Mezzo.
Light scratches i remove with Meguairs Scratch X 2.0
Autofinesse Rejuvenate as a pre wax cleaner.
Then PoorBoy's World Black Hole as a show glaze (great stuff for darker colours like red)
And top it off with Wolfgang Fuzion handmade wax for that ultra glossy wet look! (and it smells great too like strawberries)

The exhaust and alu stuff (non anodized parts) i polish with Mothers Mag & Alu Polish.

To apply all the cleaners and wax i use various applicator pads and sponges depending the cutting factor i need or not.
To remove the haze in between i use microfibre towels from Monello.
If i need to do the complete bike i use a DAP (dual action polisher) with various application pads which gives the best result.

After every ride i remove the bugs by handspray some water with a few drops baby shampoo in it and wipe it off with a microfibre towel. And use then some Meguairs Ultimate Quick Detailer for a nice glaze.
Once every couple of weeks i wax the bike. Just because i like it and at the same time you check the bike up close and offcourse to look at this beautifull machine!
 

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Suzuki bike wash and a garden hose........unfortunately, Suzuki bike wash is discontinued so I'll need to find something else (it really was the best...even Harley and Honda shops used it!)....soft brush and microfiber towels as needed.

Upholstery shampoo on the alcantara seat.

Kerosene on the chain followed by appropriate lube.

I have a variety of spray wax and instant detailers.....mostly free samples. They are all good.
 

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My girlfriend says i have more cosmetics stuff for my bike than she does. :)

For the detailers among us:
When the bike has seen some rain with dirt on the road (yep that sometimes happens folks when you actually ride a bike) i handwash the bike with a lamb fur glove (Meguairs) and Meguairs Gold Class shampoo, dry it with a Meguairs Magic Towel. Prior to the washing i use PoorBoy's World Bug Squash wich helps to easy remove bugs and tar.

For light swirls i use Monello Raffini Finale and prior to that Monello Raffini Mezzo.
Light scratches i remove with Meguairs Scratch X 2.0
Autofinesse Rejuvenate as a pre wax cleaner.
Then PoorBoy's World Black Hole as a show glaze (great stuff for darker colours like red)
And top it off with Wolfgang Fuzion handmade wax for that ultra glossy wet look! (and it smells great too like strawberries)

The exhaust and alu stuff (non anodized parts) i polish with Mothers Mag & Alu Polish.

To apply all the cleaners and wax i use various applicator pads and sponges depending the cutting factor i need or not.
To remove the haze in between i use microfibre towels from Monello.
If i need to do the complete bike i use a DAP (dual action polisher) with various application pads which gives the best result.

After every ride i remove the bugs by handspray some water with a few drops baby shampoo in it and wipe it off with a microfibre towel. And use then some Meguairs Ultimate Quick Detailer for a nice glaze.
Once every couple of weeks i wax the bike. Just because i like it and at the same time you check the bike up close and offcourse to look at this beautifull machine!
Believe me!! He is the master :)
 

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All these recommendations for polishes, what do you guys recommend for cleaning and protecting matte finishes.

I,ve been leaving mine unwashed as it looks worst after washing, every panel a differing degree of matteness (is that a real word?)
 

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I'm a bit of a detailing nut so I'll keep it as brief as possible. I use basically the same products on my cars and bikes and buy in bulk sizes once I find something I like. The only difference is I don't go anywhere near my bikes with a high pressure washer.

Wash
- pre wash soak with Autobrite Snow Foam in a foam gun that attaches to garden hose
- Poorboys bug squash (note - this stuff strips waxes)
- Optimum car wash
- Meguiars lambs wool mitt and a selection of brushes for tight spots
- low pressure compressed air blow down
- dry with waffle weave microfiber
- I also often use a "wax as you dry" product like Duragloss Aquawax or Prima Hydro

Waterless
- Prima Slick and microfiber towels (I also use this on helmets)

Metal
- P21S Polishing Soap or Meguiars metal polish
- foam hand polishing pads

Prep & Polish
- decontamination towel with Dodo Juice Born Slippy clay bar lube
- DAS6 pro dual action polisher with a selection of pads
- Menzerna polishes
- wax is whatever the flavour of the month is. Lately that's been Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 (synthetic) or 50/50

Other
- Vuplex on instrument cluster, headlight etc
- CarPro PERL on unpainted plastics
- kerosene on the chain

There are many more products in my arsenal that I use as required but I'll spare you from that detail!
 

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good grief, I ride my MV everyday unless its absolutely pouring

yes, its dirty......and its about due for an oil change......maybe I'll wash it too
 
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