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Some heat prior to attempting removal would help release the thread locking agent.
I think you can get just an impeller from MV.
Timur has promised better parts availability. Give his promise a test at your dealer.
No, I would not run it with a missing blade.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Some heat prior to attempting removal would help release the thread locking agent.
I think you can get just an impeller from MV.
Timur has promised better parts availability. Give his promise a test at your dealer.
No, I would not run it with a missing blade.

ill ask my dealer and see what they say. ill contact mv directly as well.

cheers.
 

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You could try a pulling tool. Light heat beforehand and some pb blaster.

Picture I included is a random picture of what one looks like. You will have to find the correct one that fits something that small. But this is the kind of tool I would use in your situation.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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@Figifister, it is a threaded connection. The gear puller you picture will not work, but only cause more damage
 

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You need a new pump now.Normally the impellers are loctited on.
Thats why it is so hard to remove as mentioned.
Cannot see an impeller sold as a separate part.
Looks like you have to buy the pump group,very expensive.
Also seeing the impeller is plastic,it may not just screw off,it could be vulcanised to the shaft.Thats my thinking.
 

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This hasn't gone well has it. Water pump parts don't seem to be available separately, you need another water pump, try this one:


There should be enough photos and identifying marks to match it to yours. There some others listed but that one is the most economical if the seller will ship to you.

It may be that the seal set up inside the pump is the same as the external pumps on the F4s. If you remove the bolts and separate your oil and water pumps you will likely (based on my experience replacing the seal on an F4 pump) see a circlip on the end of the water pump shaft. Remove the circlip and the shaft and whats left of the impeller should slide out of the pump and you will see the water seal behind the impeller. If you do that I have an old F4 seal in my archives I can dig out and photograph/measure for you. Fitting a secondhand pump without replacing the seal would be taking a chance, I'd be looking to strip and clean it and replace the seal.

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I bought a new pump 3 months ago, only now it arrived.... i have a question about the oil pan gasket installation... do i need to apply silicon ontop of the gasket as well? or will the gasket be enough? im reading a lot of different stories online. some people are saying use silicon AND the gasket. some are saying use gasket only, and some are saying ditch the gasket.. use silicon only.. i dont know what option is optimal.. can anyone shed some light on that?

thanks.
 

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Gasket alone is the way the engine was designed. Sealant only will work....if you don't have a good gasket. Sealant in addition to the gasket is being a bit pessimistic about the gasket's ability to do its job...IMHO
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Okay thanks! that clears that one up... i have more questions, the bolts that are needed for each hole... 2 number 57s are marked and 1 58... what about the rest of them? i do not recall which bolts came from whereas it has been nearly 3 months since ive taken them apart... and with these unmarked im afraid ill put the wrong size bolt in and damage something.... and what are the required torque settings for these? i cannot find ANY info about the correct torque settings... i tried 15NM and it sheared off one of the bolts heads.. luckily i have spare ones... im getting very frustrated with this, the workshop manual is next to useless when you compare it to a haynes manual, which is what im normally used to.

Thanks.


478310
 

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From the diagram it would seem you only have 2 lengths. #57 are longer and the rest are all #58.
Set the pan on a flat surface. place the bolts into the holes. They should all extend out the top the same amount except the 2 in the corners which are where the locating dowel pins are located.
Torque is listed in the manual:
478312

So 10 NM
The factory manuals are made for experienced mechanics. They are vastly superior to Haynes, which are made for do-it-yourself types and never have as much detailed information.
478314
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Awesome! does anyone have a link to an online workshop manual? because the one i am using does not have that page with the torque settings... instead it has this.

478324
 

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The torque specs page I posted is in the Engine Manual, in the section relative to the components. Looks like you are in the Workshop (chassis) manual.
Cylinder head section, lubrication section, transmission section all have their own torque listings.
In the chassis manual each section (suspension, brakes, etc) has torque listings, too.

The exact manual for your bike is not on Donsy's site, but any of the 3 cylinder manuals will contain useful info and torque specs will be the same. Here's a 3 cylinder Engine Manual:

 

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Discussion Starter #56
Got the bike up and running finally! now... time for some good ol TLC.

Thanks for everyone who helped along the way!
 

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Hi.... its me again with another problem. :(



My bikes oil seems to be emulsified and its very milky. The oil... is 3 months old. i use it to go to work and back 5 times a day.. its a 2 mile trip each way.



i read somewhere that it might just be condensation.... but it seems a lot of white milky oil is present... and surely it cannot be just condensation... but a rather more serious problem of a possible coolant leaking into the oil sump?



what do i do here? water pump gasket? head gasket?



any help would be amazing.


Cheers.


Ersan.
[/QUOTE
pressurize the cooling system and your leak will show up...
 
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