Sorry ,said it the wrong way round.Now i have a massive problem ,how the hell to you undo the bloody cam shaft screws,not the ones on the chain sprocket ,the black bolts that hold the cams down,I will end up burring the hex heads,i can not even get one out,what the hell did they use,Will i use heat ,need help.
OTHERWISE IM PUTTING IT BACK THE WAY IT IS.
Hammer came in handy,had to reform one outer hex screw using it to try and get some grip.one in the middle just would not budge and could not get enough swing with my hammer,just kept on slipping out ,obliviously burred. you must drop the radiator to have any chance.I found with 14 screws you had to use a upside down ring spanner with extended bar over a hex drive and just keep it moving forward with a pumping action until you here the break.
Now for the middle screw just spent 4 hours reaming the head down with a Dremel tool with flexy tube and carbide bits.So all that was left was the stub.Now i Know that these screws have been torqued to more than 12 nm. how because when i popped the cam cradle the stub just unscrewed by finger. So Joe is 12 nm correct.
I recently had the same problem. I separated the trellis frame from the engine to have room for an impact driver. I filed down a 5.5mm impact socket and drove it into the heads of four of the bolts. It took a big boy using both hands to hold the driver while I swung a 3 pound hammer with both hands to break them loose. Impact driver is a pretty handy tool!
I started with a brand new high quality allen wrench made in Germany and I had to add length to it to get the first 12 bolts out. The allen wrench flexed so far I was sure it was going to break. I went one size too small on two of the shims so I had to take it back apart. I torqued them to 12nm and it still took a lot to get them loose the second time, all the bolts were new the second time. Since the package had 50 bolts in it, I replaced them all again on second assembly.
Yes, you will get more lift with tight valves. It's not going to help duration at all, as duration has more to do with lobe shape. Tighter than spec valves will do nothing more than invite premature engine wear or possibly cause a catostophic failure at high RPM's in a factory engine.
Hi folks hoping you can give me some advice on my problem. I’m going to try and give you as much info as possible so sorry this is a bit long!
Bike is a 2006 F4 1000S. I’ve owned it since 2011 and it isn’t ridden much 5.8k miles total. It has a Power Commander III (not sure if relevant). It’s...
So I got this other swingarm to "Pirate" the chain slider. Now that I look at it it is one solid piece that is inserted into the swingarm. Has anyone ver been able to get it out and install in another swingers? You will see the condition of my current one in the last pic. As always thankful for...
While looking for a rear shock, i came up on this 1078 F4 rear Sachs, does it fit the 750? ( im guessing it does )
And how do you tighten the spring preload? It seems to not have those tightening rings most other shocks have….
Senna F4 750 US model 2002 17tkm
As i already mentioned in my new member introduction i was a bit of an idiot and connected my battery the wrong way round. (hate myself)
i replaced the obvious things that go wrong which was two fuses, and took a look here for hints on what else might of...
Summer is coming so I have been discussing with Merc07 for a chip mod to let the fans coming in sooner. I found that the cooling fans of my bikes do not kick in at 97c according to the spec but until the dash board shows around 108 - 110c. Also as advised by Adam fans on 750s might not be...