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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys just checked my valves all inlet are within spec but 5 exhaust valves are out reading .15 basically they have tightened any reason for this I thought they would get wider

Cheers eddy
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry ,said it the wrong way round.Now i have a massive problem ,how the hell to you undo the bloody cam shaft screws,not the ones on the chain sprocket ,the black bolts that hold the cams down,I will end up burring the hex heads,i can not even get one out,what the hell did they use,Will i use heat ,need help.
OTHERWISE IM PUTTING IT BACK THE WAY IT IS.
SHIT
 

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Discussion Starter #6
We'll never again 15 hours just to take 16 screws out , done . Now for shimming time . And new screws .
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hammer came in handy,had to reform one outer hex screw using it to try and get some grip.one in the middle just would not budge and could not get enough swing with my hammer,just kept on slipping out ,obliviously burred. you must drop the radiator to have any chance.I found with 14 screws you had to use a upside down ring spanner with extended bar over a hex drive and just keep it moving forward with a pumping action until you here the break.
Now for the middle screw just spent 4 hours reaming the head down with a Dremel tool with flexy tube and carbide bits.So all that was left was the stub.Now i Know that these screws have been torqued to more than 12 nm. how because when i popped the cam cradle the stub just unscrewed by finger. So Joe is 12 nm correct.

Ps: Never again

cheers eddy
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Do not use the hammer to often,you might break something. Honestly it is not a hard job to do,I just got pissed off with these screws.

cheers eddy
 

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I recently had the same problem. I separated the trellis frame from the engine to have room for an impact driver. I filed down a 5.5mm impact socket and drove it into the heads of four of the bolts. It took a big boy using both hands to hold the driver while I swung a 3 pound hammer with both hands to break them loose. Impact driver is a pretty handy tool!

I started with a brand new high quality allen wrench made in Germany and I had to add length to it to get the first 12 bolts out. The allen wrench flexed so far I was sure it was going to break. I went one size too small on two of the shims so I had to take it back apart. I torqued them to 12nm and it still took a lot to get them loose the second time, all the bolts were new the second time. Since the package had 50 bolts in it, I replaced them all again on second assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I feel your pain Chris,just bought the 16 bolts for 5 bucks , got the shims for 25 dollars , now to put it all together , and close the lid . Lol
 

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I feel your pain Chris,just bought the 16 bolts for 5 bucks , got the shims for 25 dollars , now to put it all together , and close the lid . Lol
Just looking to do mine..

I might just replace the bolts with Stainless or Titanium bolts to make sure i can get them out next time.

Has anybody ground the shims on flatbed grinder rather than buying new ?
We use to do this back in the 80-90's and never had any issues, but modern bikes do rev higher..

Also i did hear that having the valve gaps at the tight end give better lift/duration - not sure what % improvent you get - anybody with any knowledge on this ?? (I ride only on track)
 

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Just looking to do mine..

I might just replace the bolts with Stainless or Titanium bolts to make sure i can get them out next time.

Has anybody ground the shims on flatbed grinder rather than buying new ?
We use to do this back in the 80-90's and never had any issues, but modern bikes do rev higher..

Also i did hear that having the valve gaps at the tight end give better lift/duration - not sure what % improvent you get - anybody with any knowledge on this ?? (I ride only on track)
Yes, you will get more lift with tight valves. It's not going to help duration at all, as duration has more to do with lobe shape. Tighter than spec valves will do nothing more than invite premature engine wear or possibly cause a catostophic failure at high RPM's in a factory engine.
 

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Running valves at tight side of spec can yield tiny power gains.....not worth it unless you are competing at highest levels of the sport.....you are racing Marc, right?

Do NOT grind shims...they are surface hardened. You risk a lot to save a buck. They're cheap. Go visit the Hon-Kaw-Suz-Yam dealer together them.
 
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