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Discussion Starter #1
Odd this, every one who has their valves checked by the dealer always report that all was OK, yet, every time I have done mine for the first time (this is my third new MV) they are always out :confused: :stickpoke

I'm hoping the exhaust clearances on the 1000R are bigger than the 1000S.
The 1000s should be .15-.24 inlet, and .20-.29 exhaust.

Mine going from 1 to 4 inlets are .20.15 .21.22 .24.21 .20.25 not good..

Exhausts again going 1 to 4 are .37.36 .39.36 .33.35 .36.36 all very close to each other BUT .1 bigger than MV specify for the 1000S.

I'll have to try and find out Monday if the exhausts are larger clearance.
 

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Mike, I checked the valves in my 750 twice after the dealer did it for the first 600 mile service (I've got about 8500 on it), and as I recall they didn't move at all. And I can't find the *&^%^& piece of paper I wrote them all down on, but I think they were all set to .008" (.20mm) or something bizarre like that. Weird, but in spec. I never adjusted one, never took the cams out so I don't know how that's going to be.

Your intakes aren't THAT bad, but some consistency would be nice. They are in spec anyway, or so.

Those specs you wrote down for the 1000s match the 750. I suppose there's no reason for it not to be the same if temperatures are expected to be close to the same I guess...

Does the R have a different head or something? Longer valves possibly? I dunno.

Kane from the other board (modified was his handle) told me that the shims are the same as a Honda 900RR but the Honda shims are much cheaper, and apparently come in .025mm increments so you can get it right on. Might be worth a look.

(Off topic, do the 750, 1000s and 1000r all have the same valve sizes?)
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
acruhl said:
Mike, I checked the valves in my 750 twice after the dealer did it for the first 600 mile service (I've got about 8500 on it), and as I recall they didn't move at all. And I can't find the *&^%^& piece of paper I wrote them all down on, but I think they were all set to .008" (.20mm) or something bizarre like that. Weird, but in spec. I never adjusted one, never took the cams out so I don't know how that's going to be.

Your intakes aren't THAT bad, but some consistency would be nice. They are in spec anyway, or so.

Those specs you wrote down for the 1000s match the 750. I suppose there's no reason for it not to be the same if temperatures are expected to be close to the same I guess...

Does the R have a different head or something? Longer valves possibly? I dunno.

Kane from the other board (modified was his handle) told me that the shims are the same as a Honda 900RR but the Honda shims are much cheaper, and apparently come in .025mm increments so you can get it right on. Might be worth a look.

(Off topic, do the 750, 1000s and 1000r all have the same valve sizes?)
Well they're nearly right, and I do have this theory that MV are getting slightly less enthusiastic on the quality front? my inlet 8 0.25 is .01 over tolerance, and inlet 2 is 0.15 which is right on the minimum, with all the hassle to get in there I would'nt leave those two not adjusted, MV shims in the UK are CHEAPER!! than Honda one's, honest, I could'nt believe it either.
MV one's come in 0.05 divisions so I would set 3 inlets, the 0.15, 0.24 and the 0.25, they would end up ,0.20 0.19 and 0.20, that would put all the inlets nicely in the same range. Although saying that, sometimes a sanity check is required with metric as 0.05 is less than two thousands of an inch :jsm:
Exhausts, like I say either MV's head man has fu***d up on mine or the spec for the R is different, it maybe the later as the cams are different to any other MV out there according to the part numbers and MV's claims, also the head has different valve angles...........
 

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Mike,

That's really odd. I helped with a valve check on a Senna, which is the R motor, and the clearances were all within spec (using the S motor as reference) except for a couple being off by 0.01mm to the large side.

Just wanted to provide another data point.

Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks Alex :) ,Can you remember if the exhausts were all towards the 0.29 or maximum end of the range?
I'm begining to think that way as well, I spoke to 3X and they said the R were larger, and the last one's they did they aimed for 0.2 inlet and 0.3 exhaust, the inlet is pretty much in the middle of 1000S specs and the exhaust just outside 1000S specs, I have a sneaky feeling I will sleep on it and unless anyone tells me otherwise I will aim for high 0.2's to low 0.3's something like 0.27 to 0.33.
One annoying aspect of this is what will be a larger exhaust overlap after the adjustment is going to put the Power Commander out of spec to some degree,
Cheers
 

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Hi Mike,

SPR2003/Sergei just checked in Italy and confirmed same specs as the 1000S:


.20-.29 exhaust and .15-.24 intake


=====================================
No James, the clearance didn't change.
Anyway it is so strange the valves are all out of tolerance in a very similiar way......
 

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I'll try to post the raw numbers we measured tonight.

Here's a chart of the measurements. All in mm. The one in yellow was out of spec by 0.01mm.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks boys :) :) That's a real big help, I'm wondering how they set them at the factory? I have just removed all my exhaust shims and they are all 2.00mm.............a bit odd I thought all the same value?
I wonder if they fit all 2.00mm shims then have some computer wizardry work out the correct value or a +/- value from the 2.0mm?
Anyway, I will order all the shims I need Tomorrow, I actually had a few in my tool box.

I have talked to a few people today on this subject, and the feeling by and large is there is no need at all to check the clearance's, they NEVER need doing............well, you live and learn :jsm:
 

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mikef4uk said:
I have just removed all my exhaust shims and they are all 2.00mm.............a bit odd I thought all the same value?
What a bummer! At least with different sizes you can mix and match to sometimes minimize how many shims you have to buy.

I might have a word with my dealer if I found something like that... Seems like you should be due a few free shims.

I'd be really interested to know if all your intakes are 1.5mm or something like that.

And then to hear from someone else that all of their exhausts are 2.0mm as well. Silly!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
acruhl said:
What a bummer! At least with different sizes you can mix and match to sometimes minimize how many shims you have to buy.

I might have a word with my dealer if I found something like that... Seems like you should be due a few free shims.

I'd be really interested to know if all your intakes are 1.5mm or something like that.

And then to hear from someone else that all of their exhausts are 2.0mm as well. Silly!
I have also altered 3 inlets, the shims I took out where 1.85, 1.90, and 1.95, so they look more "real world" than my exhausts.

Also I have about 10 spare shims, none of which are 2.10!! the only one I had was a 2.05 which has gone into number 5 exhaust valve to bring that one down to 0.28, I need to order 9 shims :jsm: I suppose 5 out of 16 clearances right is about the going rate for MV...............

I also found:
One of the sealing rubbers around the plastic trumpets has had a piece cut out of it when assembled from the factory.

The butterflies are not opening 90 degrees to the inlet stacks, they probably need to open another 3mm or so at the outer edge, I need to look into this first though as there is no adjustment available for this and it's going to be a dremel job :jsm: I'll see if I can Photograph this
 

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mikef4uk said:
I have also altered 3 inlets, the shims I took out where 1.85, 1.90, and 1.95, so they look more "real world" than my exhausts.

Also I have about 10 spare shims, none of which are 2.10!! the only one I had was a 2.05 which has gone into number 5 exhaust valve to bring that one down to 0.28, I need to order 9 shims :jsm: I suppose 5 out of 16 clearances right is about the going rate for MV...............

I also found:
One of the sealing rubbers around the plastic trumpets has had a piece cut out of it when assembled from the factory.

The butterflies are not opening 90 degrees to the inlet stacks, they probably need to open another 3mm or so at the outer edge, I need to look into this first though as there is no adjustment available for this and it's going to be a dremel job :jsm: I'll see if I can Photograph this

A piece cut out in error or?? WTH is going on over there.

The butterfly stop keeps them from fully 90deg you are saying?

This wasn't a DK bike in the end right - thinking of them sending 'seconds' for discount :banghead: Only joking, I promise (to you DK customers) :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
(quote) The butterfly stop keeps them from fully 90deg you are saying?(quote)

Yep that's right James, I'll try and take some photo's, I have been down to our NEC bike show today, I won't be going again, mind you I said that last year! It was SHITE,

There were NO Italian bike manufacturers there, nothing, just a solitary 916,999, and a Tornado on private stands, no MV, Guzzi, Ducati, Benelli, a big let down, mind you I'm off to the Milan show in two weeks, maybe that will make up for it, I may even return some shims to CC :naughty: :naughty: :bash: :bandit: :2up:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ah well, all back together now, I can understand why dealers say they do not require checking, it's a bit of a ball ache of a job, any way, all inlets are now in the .19 to .21 range, and the exhausts all came in nicely between .26 and .29, I have apparantly the only MV that has ever left the factory with all it's exhaust valves well outside the tolerance :jsm: but it does bring it home that checking is the best way forward.

On the down side I found the following:
One clamp around the inlet stacks hanging off.
Butterflies not opening to 90degrees to the inlets.
An air filter through tab missing.
One of the plastic venturi "O" rings broken, probably cut on installation.
On this last point I have never noticed it before but it may be correct, on the inner side of the top cooling fan I was able to get my fingers under the outer guard quite easy, I would imagine the fan would have been just drawing most of it's air from the engine side of the radiator, I tweeked that so the gap is much smaller.

It as now as sweet as, nice idle etc, but once i can move it (forks being re-valved) I will check the co, It does sound as if it will require a trim on the Power Commander (I have no other way of adusting it)
 

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Mike, do you pull the throttle bodies out to get the valve cover out?

Kane (modified) told me that it's quicker to remove the radiator and the 90 degree elbow on the front of the head (where the thermostat is if I recall correctly) and slide the valve cover out the front.

I pulled on those *&$%^&* throttle bodies so hard that I was really getting worried that I was going to damage something, so mine have never been out. I did it Kane's way both times.

Is the tab on the air filter on the engine side? Think it got sucked through?
 

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acruhl said:
Kane (modified) told me that it's quicker to remove the radiator and the 90 degree elbow on the front of the head (where the thermostat is if I recall correctly) and slide the valve cover out the front.
Forget that! THe TB's are easy as pie, just rock back and forth while pulling up on the fuel rail..very simple and only takes a min!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
acruhl said:
Mike, do you pull the throttle bodies out to get the valve cover out?

Kane (modified) told me that it's quicker to remove the radiator and the 90 degree elbow on the front of the head (where the thermostat is if I recall correctly) and slide the valve cover out the front.

I pulled on those *&$%^&* throttle bodies so hard that I was really getting worried that I was going to damage something, so mine have never been out. I did it Kane's way both times.

Is the tab on the air filter on the engine side? Think it got sucked through?
Yeah, I'm with James on this one, just pull the throtles bodies, the only thing is you have to pull the rad if adjustment is required to get to the chain tensioner.

Does anyone know what the tool is called and where it is available from for putting those spring radiator hose clips back on?

The little air filter tab is on the inlet side of the air filter, it was probably broken on assembly I think.

I also installed the BMC air filter today, then looked on emoto and they are going to offer a differnet one without the framework at all, looks much better to me......damm
 

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I had everything loose that was supposed to be loose, and I was pulling (actually prying upward) on them enough to where I thought the rubber manifold part was going to break. I don't know if I was doing something wrong or what...

Water needed doing anyway, and dumping the radiator upside down is the only way to get all the old out.
 

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JamesC said:
HI Mike, they're CLIC pliers

http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/general_auto_tools/AMM391L.htm

I can probably run to the HW store tomorrow and see if they have one on the shelf. I'll let you know.
I did mine the first coule of times with regular old wire cutters (dykes?) and a flat screwdriver to pry the clip part over the top. Worked OK until I got really tired of that, then I just started buying regular hose clamps... So much simpler and easier...
 

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