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Fully install the tensioner before you make any decisions.

The slack should leave the intake side of the chain when the tensioner is installed. The chain slack is due to cam lobes pressing on valve springs and pushing the cam clockwise.

The timing marks look good in the photo, EXCEPT the crank (phonic wheel) marks which look as if they could rotate a bit more counterclockwise to completely align. Maybe it's the photo angle?

If you find the intake cam off by one tooth after clamping the cam caps then you will need to compensate that much when you do initial timing and secure the chain (again).

it can be a little touchy-feely process...but everything will align when correct.

I see what you mean by the crank photo. If I turn the crank counterclockwise, this pulls the chain down on the exhaust side. I really don't want to have to do this a third time. I was thinking that if I remove the CCT it will create more slack on the Exhaust side, then I can line up the line on the crank without having the cams move. This will create even more slack on the intake side. And like you say I should be able to move the chain on the sprocket toward the exhaust side. Basically relocate the slack toward the exhaust side. THEN install CCT to take up that slack. Wish me luck and thanks for your help. The cam caps are already clamped down.
 

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Well, an update. Attempted to remove the slack from the intake side. No, luck. Have removed cam caps and cams and will be attempting a third time! This time I am following the shop manual that says to raise the engine so that it is parallel to the ground. I bought a used engine hoist to hang from the rafters. This I believe will allow the intake side of the cam chain to fall straight down. Install new CCT, and HOPEFULLY, this will work.
 

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Putting the engine level means nothing. It is the same procedure whether you hang it upside down or not, dont mean to sound like cock, but you over think this job.

Sit down and line the crank mark, install the CCT and watch the cam marks line up too. Im a bit confused about what is the real problem your having? Is your timing of a tooth? Or are you scared of the marks not lining because of the spring tension pulling the cams?

You must be careful, but not make it overly complicated. Again, not meaning to piss you off!
 

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Putting the engine level means nothing. It is the same procedure whether you hang it upside down or not, dont mean to sound like cock, but you over think this job.

Sit down and line the crank mark, install the CCT and watch the cam marks line up too. Im a bit confused about what is the real problem your having? Is your timing of a tooth? Or are you scared of the marks not lining because of the spring tension pulling the cams?

You must be careful, but not make it overly complicated. Again, not meaning to piss you off!

Then why does the manual say to do that? I have noticed that since the motor is not perpendicular to the plane of the ground, the intake side of the cam chain develops a sag. This will be the third time removing the cam caps and cams. To re-set the cams and chain in the correct position. I seem to understand the logic of having the cam chain run straight down vertically so as to ensure there will not be the sag in the chain. The timing was off more than a tooth on the second attempt, when I loosened the CCT I was able to move the chain one link, however there was still slack on the intake side, then the timing got awry. Have tied chain to sprocket per Knurls advice, have tie wrapped the crank to the bolt to keep cam from moving. So this time I am doing it per the manual. How many have actually done this? I am enjoying the learning about the engine and the work. The Zen of Motorcycle Maintenance. Hopefully I will get it this third attempt. They say third time is the charm.


I appreciate all constructive comments posted by the helpful forum members!
 

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It is all well going with the manual!

Hope you get it done and can hit the road, there are ways of doing it, maybe everyone needs to find the own way. Next time you do it, it will be easy.

Have done it numerous times over the years, on my MV and all the other bikes ive had, i do remember the first time was a bit stressing.:wink2:
 

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Looks good to me....except the cam cap on the exhaust photo is not sitting flush to the head!!!! were the bolts tight in these photos?
 

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Yep...... try compensating that one tooth in anticipation of the movement when caps are torqued down.
 
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Everything is torques down and with the cams lined up properly I get that slight offset. If I close it up and run it like this will there be a problem? The phonic wheel TDC mark is about 1/8" counterclockwise forward of the TDC guide mark on the housing. All the Valve clearances are now within Spec. Oh and how do you get a torque wrench in there? Pics of what you have used plz. Thanks again!
 

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HOORAH !!! :yo: :highclap: :f4:
 
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