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Just a quick question re: valve clearances for those who have checked them did anyone find they had gone out of spec enough to warrant re-shimming or have they been found to be in spec ?

If adjusted could you post mileage the adjustment was carried out.

Purely out of interest as most bikes I have had very rarely needed adjustment unless it was one of the Bloor Triumphs which seem to need doing at 12k then after that stay in spec.
 

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Checked at 24500 km and all within spec and can chain + tensioner all fine.
 

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When mine comes up to the service interval I'll do it with Bennetts of Barnsley. I don't think I'll bother after that and I doubt if they will need adjusting then if the dyno I had recently is anything to go by.... Does an out of adjustment valve show itself on the dyno ?
joe
 

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On a cold morning after a long lay off, I can find a little difficulty getting my F4 leg over.... I don't imagine Brutie riders have same trouble, not with all those hours of ballet flexibility training ...............
 

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Just a quick question re: valve clearances for those who have checked them did anyone find they had gone out of spec enough to warrant re-shimming or have they been found to be in spec ?

If adjusted could you post mileage the adjustment was carried out.

Purely out of interest as most bikes I have had very rarely needed adjustment unless it was one of the Bloor Triumphs which seem to need doing at 12k then after that stay in spec.
Chris at x bikes did mine, think the front part of the frame needs to come off in order to do them.
 

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I did mine as per the MV manual. And even tho they were not out of spec, I still shimmed all of them to the maximum feeler guage spec allowable. Did that at 6000km and never had to worry about it again.
 

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I did mine as per the MV manual. And even tho they were not out of spec, I still shimmed all of them to the maximum feeler guage spec allowable. Did that at 6000km and never had to worry about it again.
What do you mean? You went to the higher end of the valve clearance tolerance? I am new to this procedure. I have removed the valve cover and am currently taking the measurements. Some seem to be too tight and others are in the middle of the tolerance band. it has been awhile since I have posted to the forum and I hope all are doing well.

Was toying with the idea of selling my MV but after all the low ball offers a potential buyer asked me about if I had had the valves serviced. This person was a knowledgable person and told me the job would cost around 1000-2000 dollars. He then offered me 5000 dollars for my MV!!

Well, being as my bike only has 18000 miles and I was not about to give her away, I began to do this job myself. Well, It is a learning experience, but I am going down the Rabbit Hole, and now it seems that I am going to have to do the shim procedure outlined in the manuals and various threads.

If you could please point me in the right direction for photos, videos or step by step instructions done by other members, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you
 

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You want to have the maximum allowable space between the cam and the bucket. Because valve seats wear over time and this is what closes the gap between bucket and cam. It's an easy job but you need to have good quality angled feeler gauges and a soft touch. Get a feel for resistance and make sure its uniform on every check you do. Don't be afraid to give each bucket a spray of brake cleaner to make sure its clean clean clean!
Good luck!
 

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You are going well there. To make maximum space around the valve cover, on my later model I removed the header tank and the inlet manifolds.
It makes the resealing of the valve cover easier too.
Make sure you have good quality sockets and Allen keys, if you haven’t had these parts open before, they will be very tight.
 

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Suggest that you rotate the cam lobes at each cam bearing to remove the load before you attempt to break the screws loose. They can be very tight !! Use a quality (new if possible) allen socket for tight fit.

Once you get all the screws broken loose then set the cams in position for removal (TDC #1 if I recall) and proceed with removing the screws in sequence, a bit at a time, as detailed in the manual.

After you finish and before you button up the cover you should rotate the crankshaft several turns and recheck the timing. Easy for the chain to slip a tooth as you tighten the cam caps prior to installing the tensioner. If possible, use some safety wire or zip ties to lock the chain onto the sprockets to help prevent this.
 

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You want to have the maximum allowable space between the cam and the bucket. Because valve seats wear over time and this is what closes the gap between bucket and cam. It's an easy job but you need to have good quality angled feeler gauges and a soft touch. Get a feel for resistance and make sure its uniform on every check you do. Don't be afraid to give each bucket a spray of brake cleaner to make sure its clean clean clean!
Good luck!
Yes, thank you. Can you recommend a good metric feeler gauge. i purchased one in Auto-Zone and returned it because it was in inches and converted to MM.


You are going well there. To make maximum space around the valve cover, on my later model I removed the header tank and the inlet manifolds.
It makes the resealing of the valve cover easier too.
Make sure you have good quality sockets and Allen keys, if you haven’t had these parts open before, they will be very tight.
Yes, you are right. removed Coolant reservoir and will remove the radiators too! Form my initial measurements some are too tight. I saw a video on youtube that explained it could be carbon buildup in the valve seats, or a mushrooming of the top of the valve stem.

It seems to be doing the shim replacement it will be easier to drop the engine. I am going to look for the pics of others who have dropped engines to see the best way. Any suggestions are welcome!
 

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Feeler gauge is a feeler gauge. You are looking for a "Go - NoGo" situation. Dealing in thousands of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter is an insignificant difference.

Proper valve clearance is when the largest spec gauge will not go in and the smallest spec gauge goes in with no effort. Shim sizes are set in increments that will rarely allow a "perfect" measurement. The only way to achieve that would be by shaving shims. Not a recommended practice.

If you just HAVE to have a metric only feeler gauge set I suggest you look to Google. I am sure you will find sellers all over the place. But I think you are wasting you time.

Here is one I found with one key stroke:

https://www.grainger.com/product/MITUTOYO-Steel-Feeler-Gage-Set-16X227
 

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Feeler gauge is a feeler gauge. You are looking for a "Go - NoGo" situation. Dealing in thousands of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter is an insignificant difference.

Proper valve clearance is when the largest spec gauge will not go in and the smallest spec gauge goes in with no effort. Shim sizes are set in increments that will rarely allow a "perfect" measurement. The only way to achieve that would be by shaving shims. Not a recommended practice.

If you just HAVE to have a metric only feeler gauge set I suggest you look to Google. I am sure you will find sellers all over the place. But I think you are wasting you time.

Here is one I found with one key stroke:

https://www.grainger.com/product/MITUTOYO-Steel-Feeler-Gage-Set-16X227
Thank you. Ok Ill go with the experience you’ve shared with me. Really appreciate it. Will keep you updated and thanks to Silent Service too!
 

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You are going well there. To make maximum space around the valve cover, on my later model I removed the header tank and the inlet manifolds.
It makes the resealing of the valve cover easier too.
Make sure you have good quality sockets and Allen keys, if you haven’t had these parts open before, they will be very tight.
Suggest that you rotate the cam lobes at each cam bearing to remove the load before you attempt to break the screws loose. They can be very tight !! Use a quality (new if possible) allen socket for tight fit.

Once you get all the screws broken loose then set the cams in position for removal (TDC #1 if I recall) and proceed with removing the screws in sequence, a bit at a time, as detailed in the manual.

After you finish and before you button up the cover you should rotate the crankshaft several turns and recheck the timing. Easy for the chain to slip a tooth as you tighten the cam caps prior to installing the tensioner. If possible, use some safety wire or zip ties to lock the chain onto the sprockets to help prevent this.

Thank you for the tips! I have the manuals thanks to Dons. So you are saying this procedure can be done without lowering the engine?
 

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Yes
 

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Have successfully removed the bolts that secure the cam shafts in place...phew! They were tight but an allan wrench with a pipe as lever worked great. Was able to exert smooth pressure until they loosened. Now am in the process of calculating and inserting new shims. Secured the cam cahin with wire and will post pics soon.
 
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