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Discussion Starter #1
So im due for the 12000km service on my F3 675. I phoned my dealer and crapped when I heard the cost (7 hours labour they said).

Decided to do it myself, but it literally requires taking every single fairing off, fuel tank and airbox to get to the top of the valves. And then also lifting the bike up on its front wheel which Im hoping to get away without doing.

For those that have done the service, how many of you required shims on the valves? That is the one part, if required that I wont be doing as it involves removing the cams so best to leave that to the dealer if needs be.

Oh and is there oil behind the stator cover? it shares it with the cam chain so not sure (just want to be ready for it).

This seriously puts into question the touring MVs if they have such finicky service intervals. I see Yamaha R6 has this valve check at 26 000 miles and the other supersport manufacturers at 16000 miles. 12000 km is ridiculous!
 

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That time must include R&R the cams to make shim changes. Should NOT be 7 hours just to check clearances.

You could do it without lifting the front of the bike, just not as easily or without spilling some oil out of the cavities around the valves when the cover comes off.

All bikes there days have the same base materials for seats and valve faces. The valves are what wear, not the seats. High RPMs and dirty air generally cause valve face wear, which causes valves to tighten up over time. Loose valves in shim type systems are caused by deposits. Blame crappy fuel, or over rich mixtures, or too much low rpm running.

My 910R, Gina, has never needed a valve adjustment and is well over 24K miles now.
 
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Had my bike in dealer B800 for valve clearance at 7,500 miles (roughly 12k), all were well within spec, no shims needed.So rest easy it will not be as big a job as your worried about. If they are out of spec yep 7.5 hours for full service seems fair. Keep your fingers crossed.

Now mine is out of warranty I will be doing it myself next time, no worries.
 

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Had mine checked @12,000kms all within tolerance. With many track days in that mileage. So I would say you shouldn't need any shims. But always worth checking.
 

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I just had mine done and the guys were shocked at how out of spec it was. Expensive to have done every year and will be looking into doing it myself.
 

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So im due for the 12000km service on my F3 675. I phoned my dealer and crapped when I heard the cost (7 hours labour they said).

Decided to do it myself, but it literally requires taking every single fairing off, fuel tank and airbox to get to the top of the valves. And then also lifting the bike up on its front wheel which Im hoping to get away without doing.

For those that have done the service, how many of you required shims on the valves? That is the one part, if required that I wont be doing as it involves removing the cams so best to leave that to the dealer if needs be.

Oh and is there oil behind the stator cover? it shares it with the cam chain so not sure (just want to be ready for it).

This seriously puts into question the touring MVs if they have such finicky service intervals. I see Yamaha R6 has this valve check at 26 000 miles and the other supersport manufacturers at 16000 miles. 12000 km is ridiculous!

Agree! If I may ask, what was the estimate that made you "crap?"
 

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This seriously puts into question the touring MVs if they have such finicky service intervals. I see Yamaha R6 has this valve check at 26 000 miles and the other supersport manufacturers at 16000 miles. 12000 km is ridiculous!
I'm not sure about the F3's but all other new 800's/675's are now 15'000 miles between major services. Personally I doubt they actually changed anything other than update the print in their 20 year old service schedule that they copied from the original F4 ;)

Bit of a coincidence that at the same time as they bring out a tourer they suddenly double the mileage between services ;)


Mines due a valve clearance service in the spring, if it's too expensive I might just sell the bike instead?
 

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Checked mine at 11500km, all within spec. You can remove the stator cover without dropping oil, if you are careful enough you won't need a new gasket.:)
 

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Checked mine at 11500km, all within spec. You can remove the stator cover without dropping oil, if you are careful enough you won't need a new gasket.:)
I was waiting for your input uncle, thanks for that, have a great evening. :yo:
 

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AND, if you haven't done it/had it done, SERVICE THE REAR HUB, it's going to neeed it.:thewife:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Gregoistini. Since you brought it up.

How do support the bike on the rear when removing the hub? Ive got a single sided rear paddock stand and fork lift front paddock stand? Any other type of stand I need to get? Same question for doing head bearings.

Still trying to figure out how to remove those damned coolant hose clamps without the special plier (all shops closed today)...
 

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Thanks Gregoistini. Since you brought it up.

Still trying to figure out how to remove those damned coolant hose clamps without the special plier (all shops closed today)...
You can use a pair of side cutters and great care.....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Quick one:

Is there a sealant applied between the base of the intake on the engine and the bottom of the throttle bodies?

Manual doesnt mention anything, but Im considering using a black silicone (same high temp one as used for the valve covers) to make sure its air tight. Is this a good idea?

Also, should there be a grease applied between the o-rings on the airbox which mate with the top of the throttle bodies? No mention of that either. Would it be a good idea to apply a little?

Copper paste for the spark plugs?

Thanks!
 

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Quick one:

Is there a sealant applied between the base of the intake on the engine and the bottom of the throttle bodies?

Manual doesnt mention anything, but Im considering using a black silicone (same high temp one as used for the valve covers) to make sure its air tight. Is this a good idea?

Also, should there be a grease applied between the o-rings on the airbox which mate with the top of the throttle bodies? No mention of that either. Would it be a good idea to apply a little?

Copper paste for the spark plugs?

Thanks!
I wouldn't use copper paste on aluminium. It fuses, i always use plasti lube.
 

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I put mine up on both stands, then attached some tiedowns to hooks in the ceiling, added my trolley jack for some extra stability and removed the rear stand.
20151009_142140.jpg
For sealing metal to metal around the cylinder head area I always use Loctite 515, a great sealer and MUCH less messy than the black stuff.:)
 

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I use copper or zinc lube on plug threads on my cars and bikes with no problems.
I would not use silicone around fuel areas on the bike.
Light lube of the O-Rings would not hurt but probably don't need it as they are static.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Fck me, just finished putting her back together yesterday. Its a lot of work for every 12000km! Took me 15 hours if you include the coolant change. Next time I should be able to do it in half the time though as I know the quirks of the design and how to get around them.

Valves were as follows (not sure how people measure it to the exact tenth of a millimeter, I was limited to the valve "thickometer" thickness range so the values below are the thickest gauge that could fit.

1

Intake
L = 0.178 ( good, but tight)
R = 0.203 (good)
Exhaust
L=0.203 (good, but tight)
R=0.203 (good, but tight)

2

Intake
L = 0.229 (Loose, but good))
R = 0.229 (Loose, but good)
Exhaust
L=0 .254 (good)
R= 0.254 (good)

3

Intake
L = 0.203 (good)
R = 0.203 (good)
Exhaust
L= 0.203 (good, but tight)
R=0.203 (good, but tight)

Range indicated in manual
Intake = 0.15-0.24mm
Exhaust = 0.2 - 0.29mm

The exhaust clearance on 1 and 3 was a little tight (but within tolerance). The next thickness from 0.203 was 0.229 which couldn't fit. Cylinder 2 was a little loose compared to 1 and 3.

I left them as is and closed her up, changed the spark plugs to iridium and put her back together. FYI, the stock filter or sealing of the airbox is not as up to scratch or to what I would expect. I spent a lot of time greasing all the joints on the airbox, throttle bodies and air filter. A ultra fine dirt inside the airbox mixed in the grease or oil.

Oh yes and the valve cover gasket is a PIA to get on without pinching or moving out of position. Spent a good deal of time trying to get it right.
 

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Fck me, just finished putting her back together yesterday. Its a lot of work for every 12000km! Took me 15 hours if you include the coolant change. Next time I should be able to do it in half the time though as I know the quirks of the design and how to get around them.

Valves were as follows (not sure how people measure it to the exact tenth of a millimeter, I was limited to the valve "thickometer" thickness range so the values below are the thickest gauge that could fit.

1

Intake
L = 0.178 ( good, but tight)
R = 0.203 (good)
Exhaust
L=0.203 (good, but tight)
R=0.203 (good, but tight)

2

Intake
L = 0.229 (Loose, but good))
R = 0.229 (Loose, but good)
Exhaust
L=0 .254 (good)
R= 0.254 (good)

3

Intake
L = 0.203 (good)
R = 0.203 (good)
Exhaust
L= 0.203 (good, but tight)
R=0.203 (good, but tight)

Range indicated in manual
Intake = 0.15-0.24mm
Exhaust = 0.2 - 0.29mm

The exhaust clearance on 1 and 3 was a little tight (but within tolerance). The next thickness from 0.203 was 0.229 which couldn't fit. Cylinder 2 was a little loose compared to 1 and 3.

I left them as is and closed her up, changed the spark plugs to iridium and put her back together. FYI, the stock filter or sealing of the airbox is not as up to scratch or to what I would expect. I spent a lot of time greasing all the joints on the airbox, throttle bodies and air filter. A ultra fine dirt inside the airbox mixed in the grease or oil.

Oh yes and the valve cover gasket is a PIA to get on without pinching or moving out of position. Spent a good deal of time trying to get it right.

I'm in the same boat. Busy doing the 12,000km service myself on my F3 because a certain shop in fourways wanted R11,000 to do the service.... Will the new valve cover gasket need any sealant added to it ?
 

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The manual indicates sealant around the half moons only, but most would suggest using it all the way.
When I did mine a couple of months ago, I applied a very thin bead all the way around on both sides (as suggested on here). Worked great. I wanted to make sure it was sorted the 1st time, as its such a pain to get to it again if there was a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm in the same boat. Busy doing the 12,000km service myself on my F3 because a certain shop in fourways wanted R11,000 to do the service.... Will the new valve cover gasket need any sealant added to it ?
Only do the half moons with sealant, do not do sealant all round as you will struggle to get the rubber to stick in the right place.
 
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