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Nah, a wankle is a wankle is a wankle....I still have a rotor in the garage from the one I rebuilt in a weekend. Cakewalk to work on, but hand filing the end-seals is a bit tedious.
 

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Nah, a wankle is a wankle is a wankle....I still have a rotor in the garage from the one I rebuilt in a weekend. Cakewalk to work on, but hand filing the end-seals is a bit tedious.
Wankel. In the U.S., they are commonly referred to as rotary engines, avoiding confusion with radial engines.

I competed for many years in NHRA's Pro ET category. I built my own 12A and 13B engines, as I worked for a race shop that specialized in them.

What "end-seals" are you hand filing, and why? Are you referring to apex seals, corner seals, side seals, or oil seals?
 

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It was in 1991...memory fading...carbon ... must file ... you really are a twat.

(Hi Al!:wave:...the above twat reference was in no way directed at you...)
 

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It was in 1991...memory fading...carbon ... must file ... you really are a twat.

(Hi Al!:wave:...the above twat reference was in no way directed at you...)
Are you talking about the old 6mm apex seals that came in the twin-distributor 10A and 12A engines prior to 1974? Because those engines were dumpster food. Total crap. I would never waste time or money rebuilding one of those, when vastly better engines had been available for nearly 20 years (before your 1991 rebuild), and were a straight bolt in to any rotary Mazda vehicle.

In 1991, you should have been building a single distributor 4-port 12A or 13B, equipped with a 1981 or later RX-7 electronic distributor. They could be had for a couple hundred dollars, and they started without melting your battery cables.

Long blocks could be assembled on a kitchen chair with a hole punched through the seat, with no expensive aftermarket parts, to provide about 200 horsepower for a street car, and about 250 horsepower in a race car, normally aspirated, on pump 87 unleaded, through the muffler, with no power adders. Just shim up the oil pressure regulators with washers, slow down the water pump with an inexpensive Racing Beat underdrive crank pulley, and use a set of Racing Beat porting templates. If you wanted another 30 horsepower from a race engine and were willing to spend some money and put up with the downsides to 3mm carbon apex seals, you could get up to about 280 horsepower or so out of a race engine.

Mine was assembled out of a 12A purchased in 1985 for $500 out of a wrecked low-mile 1985 RX-7 GSL (complete with electronic distributor). It easily pushed my full steel stick shift door car into the 11s, for not much more than the cost of an OEM seal kit and some careful time with a flash light and a die grinder. I raced it twice a week, with launches and open-throttle upshifts at 9,000 rpms, for 5 years, and it was still running great when a top-end clutch explosion in the lights at a little over 110 mph nearly cut my car in half.
 

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Wankel. In the U.S., they are commonly referred to as rotary engines, avoiding confusion with radial engines.

I competed for many years in NHRA's Pro ET category. I built my own 12A and 13B engines, as I worked for a race shop that specialized in them.

What "end-seals" are you hand filing, and why? Are you referring to apex seals, corner seals, side seals, or oil seals?

I was always under the impression that a Rotary engine ( WW1 ) is an engine where the crank is stationery and the barrels rotate around it.

in a Radial engine the opposite is true and there is a common connecting rod...Maybe a Europe to USA translation difference ?

joe
 
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