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The click normally has to do with the position the "ramps" come to rest in after pulling to a stop.
So, No slipper clutch.... wonder if you are hearing chain noise?? Inspected the chain for tight spots or kinks?

I guess those blue radiator covers aren't metal like the 1st generation??? I fear using a paint stripper may damage the plastic. Maybe best thing would be to just respray with silver or black .... or whatever color YOU like.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So on a closer look its the abs light and the one blow the side stand light.
What could be the reason.

First photo is the starting point and the abs light goes off once I start moving. When I cross the 150 - 170 km/ph mark the abs light comes on with the other light below the side stand in pic 2.
Pic 3 is after the light comes on and the side stand is down just as a ref.

How can I get my hands on the owners/service manuals.

Still haven't figured out the click on the clutch but a few rides on the saddle and it seems its more when ridding in low speeds on 2 & 3 gear. Chain on a visual inspection seems to be fine. As per the sticker the slack of 50 mm also seems to be fine, might be close to 48 - 50 mm. Its a bit difficult to check alone. What is the correct method to check the chain slack. Can it be checked when the bike is on the side stand or needs to be straight up, or one needs to be seated while taking the measurement.
Damn I miss the factory rear stand😁

So the plastic with blue has two options. Paint or body sticker. Stickers seems to be an easier option but will the radiator heat be a concern? Anyone tried this?
 

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Measure chain slack on the rear wheel stand. You need you buy a stand. The factory stand isn't all that great anyway.

I think that second light is the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" (also known as the "check engine" light) which indicates a Detected Trouble Code has been created in the OBD system.
I will bet it is a wheel speed sensor and the diagnostic software would show the stored code. But since it only happens at high speed it is likely the positioning of the sensor to the wheel ring, and not a bad sensor itself. Maybe also just a poor connection from the sensor to the harness.

Did you check Donsy's web site for the manuals??

By the way, where in the world are you?? Not in your profile and I am having a hard time recognizing the flag on your avatar.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
That's Qatar's flag. In the middle east

I tried donsy's web site earlier but couldn't download. I'll try it again.
 

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Are you in Qatar now? I think the flags populate based on IP addresses.
Not sure Donsy's site has the 2014 info but I'm attaching a Quick Guide I have, and a DropBox link for the workshop manual.

 

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Hi Sarge, last year I brought a 2014 1090 Brutale with no R's. I also thought the throttle was very snatchy until I found out the bike has two fuel maps and I had the sports one loaded :rolleyes: After loading the second map, via the dash (read very fiddly) the bike was transformed and much nicer to ride :)
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Are you in Qatar now? I think the flags populate based on IP addresses.
Not sure Donsy's site has the 2014 info but I'm attaching a Quick Guide I have, and a DropBox link for the workshop manual.

Hey ed,
Thanks a lot, that great. Wonder if there us also a users manual. BTW Donsy's website still works but I cant see an owners manual for the 1090 B4

Yes have been in Qatar since 2015. Quite like this place actually having been in 3 of the GCC countries now, but with the oil prices having crashed not sure how long ill last. But if I stick around and you ever feel like visiting once this situation clears, you have a place to stay and a Brutale at your disposal.

Below pic, point number 6 states

Engine oil pressure warning light (red)
"It turns on when the engine exceeds 11600 rpm"

Note sure at what rpm the light came on and the oil level seems fine. Trying to see how I can get my hands on the OBD to check the error code if any.
Brutale dash board.png
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hi Sarge, last year I brought a 2014 1090 Brutale with no R's. I also thought the throttle was very snatchy until I found out the bike has two fuel maps and I had the sports one loaded :rolleyes: After loading the second map, via the dash (read very fiddly) the bike was transformed and much nicer to ride :)
yes normal mode is much better for now ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So after a bit of searching..... unfortunately there is no more a dealership here and so had to ask the pervious dealer to help with the computer check but after hooking her up no code showed up on the computer. Can't figure it out.... shouldnt the error have been stored on the ecu?

They even checked the chain which seems to be fine although a little dry and maybe at 47-48 mm and not at exact 50mm. Should this be loosened? Stupid question but does lubing the chain affect the slack?
 

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Lubricating the chain will let the o-rings relax a bit which may result in a looser chain measurement. Loose is always better than too tight when it comes to drive chains.
Maybe you have no fault code generated.... maybe you are seeing the "shift" light coming on.
 
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