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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

While confined @127.0.0.1, I started to work on my bike. Wanted to change the sproket carrier 55 nut, and it didn't happened the way I was envisioning: I apply the proper direction, but the nut did not moved at all. The tool I used should be long enough, but it doesn't move.

Looking for advice and ideas...

Thanks
 

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Just checking: Which way do you consider “the correct direction”?
 
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Breaker bar with a piece of pipe on it for extra leverage.
2nd person sitting on the bike with rear brake applied.
Works for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
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Well: on the wheel side, it's inversed. On the other side, it's normal...
Correct. The advice to use a pneumatic gun and let the gun do the work is good advice. There is probably corrosion between the nut and the axle and that corrosion, even if it's a small amount, can be tenacious.

Don't be impatient and let the rattle gun hammers break the galvanic bond.
 

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Lefty Loosey on the left side nut (sprocket carrier) !!! Other way around on the right side (wheel).

Here is my saga from 2012 .... If you need to borrow my custom built 1" drive impact socket I will send it to you on loan for cost of postage.
 

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I sprayed PB Blaster and let it sit for a night, then went back at it with the impact gun. Came off no problem (couldn’t get it to budge the day before).
 

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You did remove the safety wire, correct? Just have to ask the obvious question.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You did remove the safety wire, correct? Just have to ask the obvious question.
I like obvious questions! And the answer is yes, I removed the safety wire... On the sprocket side, it you don't you can't even place the 55 socket.

And for the rest: there is no obvious or stupid questions. There might be dumb answer, though...
 
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...aaaannnnd, just a suggestion...

As I ride my 1090RR in all conditions, I regularly remove the rear and clean up the inside...and more importantly, re-grease axle/nut (drive side). Also doing a hub inspection and clean every 6km means both rear nuts are removed becomes a breeze.
 

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The tools for removing any sprocket or wheel nur
Air impact wrench
Swench Wrench manual impact wrench, if there's no air
Tie down strap for locking the rear wheel to the foot peg mount
20190813_170914~2.jpg
 

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Yes, Keith, It's a 55mm TAPERED socket
If you go to the top of the General Maintenance and Tech section, I have a sticky
there and explain everything
You used to be able to buy them at a Forum discount from SpeedyMoto but they've gone out of business 😥
 

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I use the "wife on the seat smashing the rear brake" it's a family bonding experiance haha. Who needs power tools

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Finally It was a success with electric impact wrench (Ryobi One+ - up to 450Nm used on the higher setting), with a 55 tapered socket with 3/4 inch driver combined with Loctite 8040 Freeze and Release: about 90 seconds of impact made it... It looks like it was over torqued (with more than 300Nm it didn't go with with the manual wrench). Threads are perfect on both sides, no signs of corrosion anywhere...
I mounted a new CNC Racing nut after that and I paid attention to anti seize and to the torque applied when mounting it (I'll see how it will be next time i'm unmounting it)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I use the "wife on the seat smashing the rear brake" it's a family bonding experiance haha. Who needs power tools

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I found another method which is perfect : two plastic collars to lock the rear brake pedal in pressure (one is not enough) and it works...
 
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