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Discussion Starter #1
G'day All,
Some time back I put forward the question of why my 750F4 feeling like it wanted to fall over in corners. Various ideas where put forward, one of which was to return the suspension settings to factory standard and start from there. This I did with little improvement. I have been putting up with it ever since. A chance comment with a Suzuki Bandit riding mate about this and he questioned my tyre pressures. I said I was running the factory 33F 33R . He said that he had had a similar problem with his Suzuki until he was advised to up the tyre pressures to 38F 40R. I then applied these to the MV and there has been a marked improvement, not quite up there with the British bikes I'm used to but better all the same.
So what tyre pressures are you guys running? Should I go higher?



Phelps.
 

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I run 33 on my b3 and it works fine. When i first got the bike 33 seemed low to me because i used to run 36F 42R on my ZX6R in line with the manufacturers recommendation (dropped it to 30F 30R on track days). The suspension on the b3 defiantly doesn't feel as smooth as the ZX6R.

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There is no harm in trying some more pressure as an experiment. 38/40 or more does seem high but if it works for you! I am running a couple of extra pounds in the front tyre of my F4RR which has evened out the wear across the tyre. With the book pressure of 33lbs there was a band of increased wear adjacent to the central band of the tread.

I've just rechecked the pressures in my owners manual: 33/33lbs up to 300kmh, 36/42lbs >300kmh!

As Mitchy asks, what tyres are you using?

These may seem obvious but, are the steering head, swing arm and suspension linkage bearings in good condition? How old is the oil in the forks and shock? Is your weight in the appropriate range for the suspension springs? Are you using an accurate tyre pressure gauge? Are the sags set correctly and what rear ride height are you running?

On my 1000S, once I got a ride height tool I found the rear ride height was set 10mm below "standard". Correcting that helped what had been slow and heavy turn in on tight (30kph) hairpins. I ended up running at 10mm over standard but did have the rear spring preload backed right off.

As an aside, I have a 1979 Moto Guzzi SP1000. Recommended tyre pressures in the day were 29/34 but to get them to handle and track nicely on modern (non radial) tyres 35/38 (or higher) is the way to go. Such are the change in tyre construction.

Tony
 

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Ken,
Good question and something I have been considering for a bit.
I track ride an R6 and it is common to push the forks down to level with the triple clamp to help with this issue and mid corner stability. I'm considering doing the same with the the F4 750. You may notice a little more difficulty transitioning from full lean left to right etc. But the old girl is good at that anyway so I think it will be fine. Maybe find a good section of road and push them through the triple 2.5mm at a time until you are happy.

Agree with above how long since the forks were serviced. I will be rebuilding mine over winter.

I run Diablo Rosso 2s and previously Michelin Pilot Powers. IMO life is too short for junk tires.

I have found the only time I have felt it was comfy was on the track where it was being pushed. I never quite push it that hard on the road. They just need so much corner speed to get them into the working part of the travel :)

And I think you will find modern tires recommend 36 F and 42 rear on the road for the most part.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Resetting the front end

G'day All,
Some time back I put forward the question of why my 750F4 feeling like it wanted to fall over in corners. Various ideas where put forward, one of which was to return the suspension settings to factory standard and start from there. This I did with little improvement. I have been putting up with it ever since. A chance comment with a Suzuki Bandit riding mate about this and he questioned my tyre pressures. I said I was running the factory 33F 33R . He said that he had had a similar problem with his Suzuki until he was advised to up the tyre pressures to 38F 40R. I then applied these to the MV and there has been a marked improvement, not quite up there with the British bikes I'm used to but better all the same.
So what tyre pressures are you guys running? Should I go higher?




Phelps.



G'day Blokes,
Further to the above. My son and I were talking the other day about this again. He said that his F4 was very good in the corners where as mine was still wanting to fall over despite the improvements mentioned above. I took his for a ride and indeed it is much much better so I set about setting up mine the same as his. First I dropped the rear ride height down via the toggle link. Touch better. Next this morning I am raising the forks through the clamps (dropping the front down) and I will see how that goes. Whilst doing this I noticed this, notice how the peg ring has been altered from the factory white marks. Now I am quite mechanically mined but I have never been able to understand how the adjustable steering head angle works. Nor have I seen much discussion on how it works. Is there some where some one can point me to so I can get a better grasp of this. I understand the bearings are eccentric but the only way I see it working would have the whole lot out of kilter.


Phelps.
 

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That is actually the nut that secures the "head set" steering head into the frame. Appears it was tightened at some point. That is not an adjustment for steering angle, that would require the entire "head set" be changed.

You are on the right track by adjusting front and rear ride height. These settings directly change rake and trail (the frame dimensions that affect steering and stability).
 

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I have to say that having my suspension professionally setup for height, weight (including riding kit) and riding style was the best money I have ever spent on a motorcycle.
It really did improve the handling for me. Pressure wise I run 33 front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That is actually the nut that secures the "head set" steering head into the frame. Appears it was tightened at some point. That is not an adjustment for steering angle, that would require the entire "head set" be changed.

You are on the right track by adjusting front and rear ride height. These settings directly change rake and trail (the frame dimensions that affect steering and stability).

Thanks for that, I can see it now.
 
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