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Discussion Starter #1
Do any of you do your own changes with a machine similar to this? If so, are they effective, and might there be a 'recommended' product - UK related?
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I use this:

476651
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This is the No-Mar Pro. It has a similar built-in bead breaker.
 

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Nigelrb:

Full disclosure - I never used the one in your photo.

It looks like only the base part to a Harbor Freight Tire Changer. There is a second optional accessory part on the HF unit to handle MC tires.

I looked at the HF years ago when I bought a manual unit called a "Tire Stripper". Sadly Tire Stipper is no more and stopped producing the units some years ago. If you ever come across one in the UK well worth the money. In the US, when I looked at the HF version with the MC attachment I was confident it would get the job done. Many of the HF units end up on 2nd Hand market, I checked them out when I was looking but didn't get one. I didn't like the way the mount/demount bar worked and it didn't feel all that good to me. YMMV. If you check out Advrider there a number of threads on the HF unit and the modifications to get them to work better. The No-Mar and Cycle Hill seem to be the popular units for home use.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for above. Both No Mar and Cycle Hill units (associated companies?) appear very robust units compared to what I've pictured, but on initial searches appear to not be available in UK.

I am sure the most important thing for us all with tyre changes is to not mark our rims. That is my concern with the cheaper models, although carpet or rubber backing could be employed in appropriate places. And this is the only reason I prefer to buy - to not have to worry about even the best tech or dealership marking my wheels.
 

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Cycle Hill is part of No Mar. It used to be the Cycle Hill line was aimed at a lower price point than the No Mar line. Don't know if that is still the case. The No Mar/Cycle Hill was my second choice only due to price when I was looking. The entry level No Mar (not the Pro model above) was a little ,more expensive than the Cycle Hill but seemed the same or very similar. Either would do the job if you could get them in the UK.

The biggest plus to any of these machines is you don't have to work on the floor. You can get the same and some times a better result with tire levers especially when your working at waist height and not on your knees. It's little easier to be careful when using the machine. The rim dings and scratches are mostly avoidable other than operator error. With a tire lever you only have about 30cm of leverage with a mount and demount bar there is about a meter of leverage. If something slips, pops out or lets go even with the right tool can deliver a hell of a beauty mark in a nano second DAMHIK.
 

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Do any of you do your own changes with a machine similar to this? If so, are they effective, and might there be a 'recommended' product - UK related?
Abbastands have all you need, look under workshop equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Erm, thanks. I thought I knew ABBA products inside out. You've actually caught me out😐.

They actually look superior to the 2 I had been looking at. A tad dearer for the kit, but with levers and rim guard well worth it. Site notes out of stock at the moment, but I have sent an email query. Cheers for your help!(y)
 

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I'll hang out for one of ABBA's 10% off promos. We will probably see one during Easter, based on past form.

I'll have no objection to you riding to West Mids. I'd prefer to 'learn' on someone else's wheels rather than my own!! :ROFLMAO:
 

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I'll hang out for one of ABBA's 10% off promos. We will probably see one during Easter, based on past form.

I'll have no objection to you riding to West Mids. I'd prefer to 'learn' on someone else's wheels rather than my own!! :ROFLMAO:
Maybe i'll just borrow it at yours and do them myself then? ;) You can "practice" on your Honda's :) I received my front wheel stand today, the chock type, as opposed to my standard version. Even comes with ground anchor bolts, making working on my bike with paddock stands MUCH easier and possible on me todd! ;) (y) Also, got good news from my doc, been downgraded from "high risk" to "at risk" so i can now go out and do my shopping. Whoop whoop. I'm on day 15 since having the covid symptoms and I'm starting to breathe a bit better as well AND my doc wrote me a letter saying riding my motorcycle is an important form of exercise for my health and advises I do this once or twice a week, so I can go out SAFELY in isolation and still turn a wheel without getting nicked. The last 24 hours have been full of good news! (y)
17-21front wheel chock.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #14
. . . AND my doc wrote me a letter saying riding my motorcycle is an important form of exercise for my health and advises I do this once or twice a week, so I can go out SAFELY in isolation and still turn a wheel without getting nicked. . .
Wow!

How I would love to be in earshot and view of a police officer reading that letter. Some would even think it's forged!

Nevertheless, can I have a photocopy?:ROFLMAO:

More importantly, of course, good to hear that you're on the mend!!(y)
 

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Wow!

How I would love to be in earshot and view of a police officer reading that letter. Some would even think it's forged!

Nevertheless, can I have a photocopy?:ROFLMAO:

More importantly, of course, good to hear that you're on the mend!!(y)
Would send you a copy Nige, but is also chocka block with personal info and my medical history so I'll keep that to myself. But it's definitely legit and will see how that goes with the old bill. ;)
 

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Do any of you do your own changes with a machine similar to this? If so, are they effective, and might there be a 'recommended' product - UK related?
View attachment 476650
I use this Harbor Freight unit to break the bead. A friend has one of the other units. I don't remember the specifics of that unit, but used it together to change a tire. It didn't seem to be any better than using tire levers and rim protectors by hand.

The problem I had with my 2005 F4 is that the rims are designed with a different profile than all my Japanese and Italian bikes from 1979 to 2001.
HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THAT PROBLEM?. The center of the inside of the rim is flat, instead recessed.
 

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Anyone using the forged steel Motion Pro interlocking tire levers? It seems simple enough just using bars or if too difficult the old 2x4 method. It's not like I'm changing tires often.
 

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The problem I had with my 2005 F4 is that the rims are designed with a different profile than all my Japanese and Italian bikes from 1979 to 2001.
HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THAT PROBLEM?. The center of the inside of the rim is flat, instead recessed.
The wheels are made the same as every other bike out there. Are you talking the rear wheel? The recess is offset to one side (spoke side) so you need to go on and off to that side of the wheel to make it easier.
 

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The wheels are made the same as every other bike out there. Are you talking the rear wheel? The recess is offset to one side (spoke side) so you need to go on and off to that side of the wheel to make it easier.
So what you're saying is "the wheels are NOT made the same as every other bike out there."

Yeah, it was the rear. I must have been working from the NON-spoke side, so I couldn't see the offset recess. Just when I thought I've done every possible thing wrong the first time. :rolleyes:

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!
 
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