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Discussion Starter #1
Recently has "Fuel Level Sensor" fault message. this has been intermittent for a few weeks. As I had the tank off for service i took the sensor out and partially stripped it to find that there is a float inside the vertical pipe with a magnet on it. Does anyone know how this works. Does the magnet slide a contact up and down to change the resistance? Has anyone fully stripped one? I have read lots about thermister's etc but as the float inside the tube has a magnet attached feel that a more simple system is in use? I will leave mine to see if it settles down again and at he next service if it is still not working attempt a further strip down of the system. In the meantime would be interested if anyone has already gone this far.
 

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Recently has "Fuel Level Sensor" fault message. this has been intermittent for a few weeks.
I had intermittent issue, and it became permanent. When it was intermittent, generally, it worked during the first minutes of ride every day... And longer in the morning. I still have my faulty part at home. I had the intention to disassemble it to understand. I may have some time in the next few weeks to do it...
 

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I have the same fault code that likewise pops up intermittently. I ordered the new sensor but the sensor in the bike has been working enough off and on, I haven't done the R&R yet. When it does fail, I'll be in line as well to try and understand what the underlying issue is.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Arcimboldo, The Hall Effect makes sense of the floating magnet inside thew tube. I cannot get an Ohms reading on the two wires coming out of the tube and am assuming a poor connection or broken wire inside the device. I have checked the external wires from the tank sensor up to the dashboard for continuity and earth. .
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Arcimboldo, The Hall Effect makes sense of the floating magnet inside thew tube. I cannot get an Ohms reading on the two wires coming out of the tube and am assuming a poor connection or broken wire inside the device. I have checked the external wires from the tank sensor up to the dashboard for continuity and earth. .
There is some sort of strip running down the length of the tube adjacent to the magnetic float chamber. Have not exposed the lower end of the tube where the wires go in. The wire connection at the bottom is encased in resin.
 

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Thanks Arcimboldo, The Hall Effect makes sense of the floating magnet inside thew tube. I cannot get an Ohms reading on the two wires coming out of the tube and am assuming a poor connection or broken wire inside the device. I have checked the external wires from the tank sensor up to the dashboard for continuity and earth. .
I have some assumptions on the issue : until it is completely broken, it works intermittently when it's cold and issue appear again while the engine is heaten. It may be very well that the welding compound used to attach the wires is just not proper and requires a higher temperature specs...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mine was intermittent and when I checked the wires from the sender I found 1940 Ohms resistance which is correct for a full tank. I checked the blue earth wire for continuity and the white terminal up to the Dash terminal 22 which showed continuity. The plug to the dash is Female so I put a small amount of tinfoil in and replaced the plug. Problem solved. So all this time the fuel sensor was ok and the problem was a loose connection at the Dash. This fix may work for others with a similar intermittent problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just a further note, there was fraying on nearly all the wires where they entered the plugs and I dit the rounds adding insulation where this was the case. This is when I finally had an Ohm reading from the sensor. This led me to the Dash as the continuity to the Dash plug was good I made the jump to suspecting the Dash being the fault. Packing the Dash connector was my final go before looking more closely at the Dash itself. I was mightily relieved that it was a connector fault. So in future, I will always check the pins.
 

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With modern electronics on our bikes, connector problems are far more common than actual component failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
With modern electronics on our bikes, connector problems are far more common than actual component failure.
This is very true. Nearly all the faults on my MV have been caused by minor electrical faults on the wiring system. Motorbikes are particularly vulnerable.
 

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Mine was working on/off for a few weeks and now is permanently off. I guess it’s broken but maybe I should first check those pins right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Mine was working on/off for a few weeks and now is permanently off. I guess it’s broken but maybe I should first check those pins right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As I posted, check for an ohms reading on the two black wires from the sensor. The reading depends on the amount of fuel in the tank so can be anywhere from 2000 Ohms down to about 500. If there is no reading on these wires the Sensor is probably faulty. I had a reading of 1950 Ohms on mine with the tank full. The plug is fastened to the battery carrier on the R/H side of the battery alongside the fuel pump connector. It is a big clear plastic plug.The black plug alongside is the fuel pump connector. Split the plug. The part with the black wires is from the sensor. The smaller part with the Blue and White wires goes to the bike. The blue wire should show contiuity to earth and the White should show continuity to pin 22 on the Dash Plug. The numbers for the pins are on the Dash connector so you need to work out the mirror for the ones on the plug. If these readings are ok, Check that the plug at the battery is giving continuity through the plug from the sensor end to the bike end and then up to the Dash Plug pin 22. If all this is ok then the fault is in the Dash or the Dash connection. To check the connection either squeese the female plug conection gently or pack with a small amount of tinfoil to ensure a good contact. The contacts are close so make sure the tinfoil is contained within on pin. If at this stage it is still not working the fault may be in the Dash itself. As I said in my earlier post, most faults on electronic equipment are caused by poor connections. This is because the signal voltages are very small so any corrosion or spraining of the connectors is sufficient to reduce them enough so that the bike's computer cannot reconise.the signal.
My experience with some dealers is that they will swap the component without testing first. The Fuel sensor is £200 so be sure before you buy.
 

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As I posted, check for an ohms reading on the two black wires from the sensor. The reading depends on the amount of fuel in the tank so can be anywhere from 2000 Ohms down to about 500. If there is no reading on these wires the Sensor is probably faulty. I had a reading of 1950 Ohms on mine with the tank full. The plug is fastened to the battery carrier on the R/H side of the battery alongside the fuel pump connector. It is a big clear plastic plug.The black plug alongside is the fuel pump connector. Split the plug. The part with the black wires is from the sensor. The smaller part with the Blue and White wires goes to the bike. The blue wire should show contiuity to earth and the White should show continuity to pin 22 on the Dash Plug. The numbers for the pins are on the Dash connector so you need to work out the mirror for the ones on the plug. If these readings are ok, Check that the plug at the battery is giving continuity through the plug from the sensor end to the bike end and then up to the Dash Plug pin 22. If all this is ok then the fault is in the Dash or the Dash connection. To check the connection either squeese the female plug conection gently or pack with a small amount of tinfoil to ensure a good contact. The contacts are close so make sure the tinfoil is contained within on pin. If at this stage it is still not working the fault may be in the Dash itself. As I said in my earlier post, most faults on electronic equipment are caused by poor connections. This is because the signal voltages are very small so any corrosion or spraining of the connectors is sufficient to reduce them enough so that the bike's computer cannot reconise.the signal.
My experience with some dealers is that they will swap the component without testing first. The Fuel sensor is £200 so be sure before you buy.
Has anyone actually managed to repair the faulty one? My 2015 TV 800 is now on a constant fault, was intermittent. Bennetts MV are closed for a bit, have been waiting weeks for a new one but still no joy. or even the part number so I can have a scout around online for one!
 

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There are several parts in your fuel tank that are electrified and submerged in fuel. Sound electrical repairs are fine.
 

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.... electrified and submerged in fuel.
Part of the probe isn't always submerged in fuel.
Murphy and stoichiometry rule.

Sound electrical repairs are fine.
Thin line between fine repair and botched fix.

Wire in plastic goo, fixed, shorted, won't :oops: can't happen.
What could go wrong in a fuel tank?

A new part here isn't that expensive.
 
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