Changed tyres front and back on my Turismo Veloce yesterday. All went well especially using my new headstock stand, very pleased with that.
However, to remove the rear wheel the silencer needs to come off. This was a fairly simple process in theory, involving only three fixings.
The outer nuts (#8) that are rubber mounted (#12) into the frame are not accessible using a conventional ring spanner and being 18mm are something of an odd-ball size. The special Allen bolt that runs through them and locates in the bracket on the silencer box need to be loosened whilst holding this nut so a socket is no good unless you happen to have one with an outer hex. Finally managed to undo with a 19mm offset ring spanner, a bit of a bodge but where needs must...
Whilst the tyre fitter was doing his thing with my wheels I went and bought an appropriate 18mm ring spanner to make re-installation easier, or so I thought...
The tyre fitter, despite me pointing it out and having added numerous chalk arrows to the tyre and wheel fitted the tyre thinking that the torque arrow on the rim was the direction of travel :banghead: I obviously checked this when collecting. He had to then remount the tyre the correct way and balance again.
Got home and put the front back in, no issues. Then the rear. refitting the exhaust took a lot of force to get the holes in the brackets anywhere near lined up so that I could pass the special Allen bolts (#7) through the rubber mounted nuts. The joint between header and silencer box seemed to not be deep enough despite engaging correctly. Plenty of Coppaslip and wriggling and it still wouldn't push in far enough. Tried for about an hour with lots of swearing... finally loosened the right footrest hanger and titled it back to meet the rear bracket, loosely tightened that fastener (#15) and then pushed the footrest hanger back into place then bolted it back onto the frame. The holes in the brackets still not lined up sufficiently to Allen bolts. Only by pulling to one side and then twisting the bolt and rubber mounted nut would it engage. Then the other side the same.
Question: is something wrong or should the joint, and the rubber mounts, be under such tension. On running the bike the seal between header and silencer seems good so at least that's a positive result from the struggle.
I imagine that all the 3 cylinder bikes use the same exhaust configuration. Required torque values I got from the Brutale manual (thank you Donsy). The footrest hanger bolts I tightened to 28Nm, as opposed to 24-26Nm, as there's quite a bit more hanging off them and the bolt looks bigger anyway.
Not looking forward to the next tyre change. Jamie, Ed Coskers tech, said that exhaust off or rear mudguard off to remove wheel. I can't see removing the mudguard giving enough clearance though. Maybe worth trying first next time as maybe with a twist it might be possible.
However, to remove the rear wheel the silencer needs to come off. This was a fairly simple process in theory, involving only three fixings.
The outer nuts (#8) that are rubber mounted (#12) into the frame are not accessible using a conventional ring spanner and being 18mm are something of an odd-ball size. The special Allen bolt that runs through them and locates in the bracket on the silencer box need to be loosened whilst holding this nut so a socket is no good unless you happen to have one with an outer hex. Finally managed to undo with a 19mm offset ring spanner, a bit of a bodge but where needs must...
Whilst the tyre fitter was doing his thing with my wheels I went and bought an appropriate 18mm ring spanner to make re-installation easier, or so I thought...
The tyre fitter, despite me pointing it out and having added numerous chalk arrows to the tyre and wheel fitted the tyre thinking that the torque arrow on the rim was the direction of travel :banghead: I obviously checked this when collecting. He had to then remount the tyre the correct way and balance again.
Got home and put the front back in, no issues. Then the rear. refitting the exhaust took a lot of force to get the holes in the brackets anywhere near lined up so that I could pass the special Allen bolts (#7) through the rubber mounted nuts. The joint between header and silencer box seemed to not be deep enough despite engaging correctly. Plenty of Coppaslip and wriggling and it still wouldn't push in far enough. Tried for about an hour with lots of swearing... finally loosened the right footrest hanger and titled it back to meet the rear bracket, loosely tightened that fastener (#15) and then pushed the footrest hanger back into place then bolted it back onto the frame. The holes in the brackets still not lined up sufficiently to Allen bolts. Only by pulling to one side and then twisting the bolt and rubber mounted nut would it engage. Then the other side the same.
Question: is something wrong or should the joint, and the rubber mounts, be under such tension. On running the bike the seal between header and silencer seems good so at least that's a positive result from the struggle.
I imagine that all the 3 cylinder bikes use the same exhaust configuration. Required torque values I got from the Brutale manual (thank you Donsy). The footrest hanger bolts I tightened to 28Nm, as opposed to 24-26Nm, as there's quite a bit more hanging off them and the bolt looks bigger anyway.
Not looking forward to the next tyre change. Jamie, Ed Coskers tech, said that exhaust off or rear mudguard off to remove wheel. I can't see removing the mudguard giving enough clearance though. Maybe worth trying first next time as maybe with a twist it might be possible.