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My TV has quite 27.000 km on odometr and it wawt taken used with 25.000 km.
I'd like to make e deep maintenance next 2 months; in detail:


- rear hub maintenance: i already have the bearings kit to make the substitution;
- coolant subst.
- Cluth: my clutch suffers the "kangaroo effect"; went to the dealer, he said that the basket has some
gooves on its body so i have to check it and perhaps to replace. What kind of tool you use to

keep the cluch stopped while loosening the main bolt? MV sends its tool for 200 euros but i think
i can have another chance.
- injection: i know this video of Grimoto:

They end the video saying something like : "...and if you'll need to resynchronize the throttle bodies, go to a dealer".

Ok, it makes sense. But is there a manner to synchronize the bodies without going to a dealer with an home-made tool?


- other geleral tasks like bolts tightenin control, lube, dielectir grease where need and so on.


Have you any Suggestion-Warning, tip, hints for me before i start this odyssey? :smile2:


HP
 

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hubertphava;
Here's the tool I've been using since '59 to synchronize carbs and throttle bodies, the Uni-Syn about $24 Try eBay
It's way faster than Carb Sticks, nothing to spill or leak and cheaper too:grin2:
You must silicone or epoxy the stupid holes closed in the air horns to use it

Clutch hub nut;
Remove the pressure plate and springs .....leave the plates and discs in the basket...flatten the lock washer
Put a leather glove on your left hand, put your hand on the bottom of the basket, press the inside of your left thumb against
the clutch plates.......1-2 seconds with an air wrench will remove the nut
Remember the clutch basket is geared to the crankshaft.......it doesn't want to turn:wink2:

Bet the kangaroo effect is from the cush drive......inspect it
Reduce the pinch bolt torque to 20Nm
The only bearing that MIGHT NEED REPLACING is the 6810-2RS :wink2:
 

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Edward;
Exactly the same thing, mines just old, like me>:)
I prefer the one in my picture
You must silicone seal or epoxy the stupid holes closed in the air horns, to use it though

But then you can remove all the vacuum lines and Chinese rubber caps by pulling the
brass nipples out of thethrottle bodies and epoxying the holes closed
Eliminating a bunch of crap and possible vacuum leaks>:)
 

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Of course, then you have to be able to run the engine with the air box and fuel tank removed.....and keep moving the tool from one inlet to the other. I used those back in the 70's..... old school (very old) automotive tools.

And the holes in the trumpets are there for a reason....the designers didn't put them there just to add another process and cost to the manufacturing of the part.

If you want the best tool for throttle body synch try this one: https://www.ebay.com/c/2297131100 Just have your wallet ready.

When it comes time to torque your clutch hub nut back down the tool I showed will work very well. I have had one in my tool box for 40 years.
 

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[esq'z me;2615057]Of course, then you have to be able to run the engine with the air box and fuel tank removed.....and keep moving the tool from one inlet to the other. I used those back in the 70's..... old school (very old) automotive tools.

And the holes in the trumpets are there for a reason....the designers didn't put them there just to add another process and cost to the manufacturing of the part.

If you want the best tool for throttle body synch try this one: https://www.ebay.com/c/2297131100 Just have your wallet ready.

When it comes time to torque your clutch hub nut back down the tool I showed will work very well. I have had one in my tool box for 40 years.[/QUOTE]

I did Carl's SPR at Bubba5 with my Uni-Syn......
But I also fixed the linkage, 1&2 were open more than 3&4 so I went to the screw you're not supposed
to adjust to fix it>:) That way you don't need to reset TPS>:)
Yes, I removed the air box and removed the tank mounting bolt, you just lift the front, Donsy did that while I turned the screw
I changed the air horns to holeless ones, checked the manifold hose clamps for looseness (air leaks)
I put the Uni-Syn on #4 and adjusted the air valve so the red pill was on a mark
Then to #3, Chuck adjusted the air screw so the pill was on the mark
Donsy did #1&2 the same way
My way everything was checked, fuel lines, linkage, manifolds, looked for loose bolts and oil leaks

If you use one gauge on 4 cylinders they'll be the same, if you use 4 gauges you have???

The only vehicles I've EVER seen with holes in the air horns are Aprilia RSVRs and MVs
You're naive enough to think "Designers" don't do stupid things that cost lots of money?
Watch this daisy chain of stupidity >:)
Magnetti Marelli builds the throttle bodies backwards (big side of throttle blade is up hill) making the throttles stick
To kill the vacuum that makes them stick.......they retard the motor.....1000S motors are -5°, 1000R motors are -10°
What happens when you retard a motor?...... It runs HOT, NO SHIT, DO MVs THAT?????
Ergo they add a second radiator
And a heat exchanger......does the water heat the oil or is it the other way around >:)>:)>:)

Let's look at the swing arm.......a 3810-2RS bearing on what fucking planet was that a good idea?????? It's designed for 1-2hp
DC stepper motors in robotics not 200hp.....doesn't even have seals.....they're dust covers
If the pinch bolts were M8 there wouldn't EVER BE A PROBLEM
Could the Heim joints in the ride height adjuster been any smaller??????
Chain side swing arm pivot bearing is the wrong type, the bushing is usually hammered out
Please explain why the 55mm wheel and axle nuts are tapered.......so we have to buy a special socket

No, Ed, I'm not buying an electronic vacuum gauge that only does 4 cylinders.......
I started wrenching in a sports car garage at 12.....
Your wiz bang toy can't begin to handle a Ferrari 250 TR, SWB, GTO or a trick Berlinetta Lusso.....or even my '62 Abarth race car
1. they don't have vacuum ports>:)>:)
2. the Ferraris have 6, 2 barrel Webers
A Uni-Syn does them all
 
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