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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Spent some time this past weekend hanging out with AMA racer Jordan Imrie at a riding school in my area and was chatting with him and some of his team regarding different tires. They advised me that if I go away from the original tires I will need to recalibrate the TC due to the different profile of the tires. Has anyone got any experience with this as I didn't see anything in the manual.

Thanks!
 

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I don't think you have acces to you ECU to change these settings. All you can do is adjust the read height so that it doesn't affect your handling as much. This is the same problem Ducati 1098 and 1198 riders had when they changed to a different profile tyre, it messed the traction control around quite badly.
 

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Yup, the 1199 Panigale same thing. TC was tuned specifically with the OEM tires. Incidentally there is programming for rain tires selectable as well, but if you veer off those two recommendations and all bets are off with TC, it will a matter of trial and error to set your TC right at that point. You are left with having to play around with the available settings to achieve your desired result. Start modding the bike and prepare for a lot of tuning involved to get it where you want it to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well that is a little short sighted on the manufacturers part, wouldn't you say? A guy cant even put a set of slicks on for the track :f4:without worrying about how the TC is going to react?
 

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Traction control is like dancing on a razors edge mathematically. Combine this with an engine and a rider with a wrist full of adrenaline, and you have a recipe for various outcomes no matter the amount of time / money put into the programming.

Everything from your weight, to temperature, humidity, tire pressure, track / road surface, etc are going to dramatically affect the way the traction control system handles any given situation.

God forbid changing tire profile, compound or diameter.

This is why successful race teams have full time engine software gurus who constantly tinker with settings based on track, engine, tires, and rider. Even then, you see riders getting pitched into wild high sides when traction control decides that what it thinks isn't actually happening in the real world.

Factory GP style race traction control uses far more advanced sensing and far more sophisticated control logic compared to the limited rate of change traction control found on street bikes. This allows it to adapt more easily to conditions, as it truly knows what is happening in the real world by comparing engine dynamics with real world front and rear wheel speed, g-force sensors, and suspension feedback, as opposed to assuming what is happening on a street legal bike using engine dynamics and rear wheel speed.

To be honest, no traction control system is perfect. But re-calibration is not something for the uninitiated. I am sure the factory has spent many months or even years developing maps for the traction system used on your bike. Don't think that "making it better" is going to be easy by any means. I am sure someone out there can do what you want, but be prepared to dish out some serious cash for development, track time, and possibly for a rider who can actually push the bike beyond the limits to actually test it properly.

Then, just as before, DON"T CHANGE TIRES!
 

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Then, just as before, DON"T CHANGE TIRES!
Better yet...unless you are a racer...don't rely on traction control.

Use your brain and your wrist.:smoking:
 

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and as the manual states. traction control is a safety aid for normal riding, not something that one should rely on to robotically increase their own riding limit.
 
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