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Discussion Starter #1
So I bought a 2013 1090 for track only use. I am stripping it of the street stuff and trying to make it more of a track bike. For thoes who track their bike's, what suspension settings do you suggest?

Also looking for anyone state side who sells the brutale challange nose fairing.
 

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That’s a mighty interesting approach, turning the 1090 into a track beast. Please post pics of before and after along with the list of mods done. I’m actually selling my R6 track bike to get something with a bit more motor. I’ve never considered a Brute for track but at today’s prices for these bikes it could be a worthwhile option.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am a track day instructor and former racer. I needed a bike that could be somewhat comfortable and had power to keep up with students on R1's and BMW's, my.old Suzuki sv could not hang lol. I got this brutale as a non registerable bike. So it can never be on the street... Perfect for me. I figured this would make a unique track bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok so things I have noticed with my new to me MV. Getting it into sport mode takes an act of god. The seat always feels kinda loose?? My Ducati 55m socket needs some extra encouragement to get on the rear nut. One of the bolts on the cartridge filter cover just spins.. I assume the threads are gone. It does not leak.. I just did the oil.
 

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The 55 mm nut on the MV is tapered.....it has a 2 degree taper....get a speedy moto socket.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So took the bike to the track over the weekend. Wow this thing is fast!! What a beast. I really like the bars compared to the clip ons I'm use too.

But I have a question.. My block is covered with oil.. It looks like its coming from the valve cover. I might have over filled it. I did read that it will over flow into the air box? What do you all think??
 

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Your valve cover gasket is leaking. The oil pools in the left front corner of the head when the bike is on the side stand. That's why it leaks there.

Any bike with overfilled oil level will pump oil into the air box....don't do that (not to mention horsepower loss from internal engine windage and pumping pressure). Siphon some out if the level is too high.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, so if its over filled not a problem I can fix that. The gasket sounds like a hard job. If it pools to one side do you suggest I leave the bike on the rear stand than?
 

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No...fix it. It is not hard at all.....unlike some Hondas and Kawasakis.

Tank comes off easily, air box comes off easily.... just be aware you need to loosen the radiator so it can move forward a bit for more room to work during install.

Use SuzukiBond 1205B or Yamabond #5 or similar non-hardening gasket sealant. The service manual calls for sealant only on the half moons in the head cam cut-out area (fine for a new gasket)....use a thin coating all the way around and you can probably reuse the existing seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, I will have to take another look at it. Thank you for the tips. I am sure this thread will be mostly me asking dumb questions!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I have compiled a list of goodies for my track bike conversion that I would like to do or buy.

Race tires on order
Brutale challenge front fairing and ditch the headlight and signals
Case covers both sides.... I have to look into brands make them
Ditch the rear tail section... working on that tonight
Race Brake pads
Set up OEM suspension for this year.. maybe upgrade next year.
fix stripped oil filter cover bolt


Any other suggestions?
 

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Clean your motor, remove valve cover and gasket, clean them and the head surface
I'll assume that Gen 1 and Gen 2 valve covers are pretty much the same
What you're trying to do is level the gasket/cover to the head
I use orange RTV silicone, Ed likes 3 Bond products
Put a small bead of sealant in the groove in the valve cover, more on the exhaust side, very lightly press the gasket into the groove
Mount the cover, gently tighten the bolts
After it sets, remove the cover and trim any extra on the inside, I use an Olfa knife it's a snap blade
While the cover is off, make sure your sparkplug wrench will fit past the gaskets, if not, trim it with the Olfa knife
If your 1090 is Euro3 it probably has reed valves on the valve cover.....epoxy plugs in the holes
Put a light coat of sealant on the head mating surface, mount valve cover
I put RTV silicone on the O-rings on the 8 cover bolts
If the Gen 2 have a crankcase breather like a Gen 1, remove the breather and epoxy coarse (1/8" holes) screen
over the hole in the bottom......fill the void with Chore Boy pot scrubbers.....put the cover back on...now, no oil in air box
Get a Gen1 cush drive or aftermarket one, Gen 2 cush drives are POS.....and trash the rear end ....want pictures?
Back your hub pinch bolt torque off to 15lbft/20Nm
Remove the side stand and make a jumper for the plug
Sell the stock cans and use an Arrow Thunder, you won't believe how much weight you'll save:grin2:
Get frame and axle sliders
Ditch the stock gas cap/key arrangement, remove the stock gasket between the cap and tank and plug the hole where it was mounted......you're now venting to atmosphere, through the cap :grin2:
Use a Baxley wheel chock at the track, but bring a one sided rear stand and a screw jack and some blocks, so you can change both tires
Olfa knife:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Is the valve clover no flush with the head from the factory? How do you tell if its a euro 3 bike? Exhaust will stay stock, a lot of tracks in new england have sound limits and those limits are really low. Gen1 crush dive fits in get two, Are Gen 1 and gen 2 the same frame? Asking for rear set compatibility. And thank you for your post!!
 

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Yes, the valve cover sits parallel to the cylinder head surface and the rubber seal is there to accommodate slight imperfections and provide a cushion.....as well as making R&R easier (glued on with thin paper or no gasket would be a real PIA and oil leak potential). It is just like pretty much any other sport bike on the planet.

Your bike is Euro3....that started in 2007.

That means it came with one piece headers and catalytic converter (must replace entire exhaust to get rid of cat) and the Second Air system. That consists of reed valves in the valve cover that lead to passages in the head that introduce oxygen into the exhaust ports to help ignite unburned hydrocarbons.
You can leave it alone (it has no affect on horsepower), or delete it by blocking off the passage to the exhaust, removing the plumbing and plugging the outlet in the air box that delivers clean air to the head.

You also have an evaporative emissions system with charcoal canister in the tank.
All USA spec bikes have had this since nearly the beginning...thank you California. Other countries only recently).
A search will tell you all you need to know about removing the evap system.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you Ed. I am on track next weekend I might attempt to take the evap system out before than.
 

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The problem is, Ed, Italian valve cover gaskets are made from some bullshit rubber that shrinks on the exhaust side
Because the valve cover bolts are shoulder bolts, they'll only tighten to a certain point
That's why I said to put more sealant on the exhaust side......to relevel the cover and get good compression on the gasket

Aprilia RSVRs get 11-12,000mi to the valve cover gaskets and they start pouring oil......relevel them and you're good to go
My originals are now at 30,000mi and dry as a bone:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Interesting, my Ducati's never did this. Guess I might have to take this thing Part now
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So the leak is only on that one side, clutch side. But even on the rear stand and front stand i see just a tiny bit of oil on the block
 
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