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Discussion Starter #1
OK, so anybody out there removed the headers on the F4 1000s?

I’m trying to remove them so that I can ceramic coating the exhaust system.

Not exactly an ace mechanic but not exactly incompetent when it comes to vehicles ether, taking the exhaust off shouldn’t be a big deal. But I’ve been proven wrong on many occasions.

First off what is the torque specs on the 12mm bolts holding on the header plate.

Being that it’s a tight space I can’t seem to get it off with a small socket wrench, and I didn’t really want to drain the radiator/ remove the radiator to get a larger socket wrench on the bolts. Removing the radiator just sounds like a pain in my ass. By the way I can also see that the bolts on the left side is starting to round off but at this point are still fine, I’m guessing that it’s probable past its original torque specification when it was put on last or it’s just set in place do to the heat.

Is there something that I’m missing ore some magic step to get the bolts out or do I just have to whale on them but that seems futile at this point?[:banghead:



Any bright ideals?:idea:
 

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wd40 is a good tip, just let it soak for 24 hrs

if that doesn't work, try letting the engine run a bit so the bolts get hot

good luck!
 

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Yes, as above will work, the torque for nuts is 16-18 N-M. Thats for the 750, basically the same.
Goodluck.
 

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just be patient...i was able to get all 8 bolts on and off with just a regular wrench and small socket set. You just need to really snake it up around in out back forth etc to get a good angle on the inside bolts.
 

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A wrench with a built in ratchet works but get the one with 6 point and not 12 and don`t even look too hard at those radiator finns or they will bend.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think we might be talking about different models; there is only 1 bolt on a “X” style plate on each of the 2 exhaust headers bolted on to the head. It's not a clamp style connection.


Anybody know what the torque spec is on that style?

WD-40 was a good idea, tried that last night but to no avail.:banghead:

I’ll let you know how warm up the engine goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, do you remember the part in the beginning where I said that tend to prove my self-wrong. Well it’s happened again. I’ve tried everything to get those dame bolts out shy of rounding off the nuts. I can’t imagine what’s left to do. I could have used a bolt out socket head but then I’d worry about breaking the stud imbedded in the engine block and I can’t imagine how much fun that would be to replace. So I guess I’m resign my man card for a couple of days and take it to the shop ………….



Well until next time thanks for the advice.
 

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I was just toying with the headers today on the Brutale. Almost gave up in the need of getting different tools. Basically I undid the radiator till I had enough room to move it about an inch. Almost gave up trying to undo the bolts but with enough patience and elbow greece and having to leave out of frustration a few times, I finally got it undone. Ratchet really helps..
 

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I will second admin's advice. I just did an exhaust swap, and "Just what admin said"

The WD-40 is a very good idea. I don't think running the bike to get the nut hot will help any. The stud and nut will heat at the same rate, and expand in similar fashion, just making the chance of getting burned nuckles far greater. Patience and prayer are all that will help on this one... As i remember the left nut was far easier to get at. the right nut was a major pain!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok not quite yet! The dealership hear in Denver just told me that there is lock-tight on those two bolts, seems like direct torching is the only way to get the nuts off. Well I guess I’ll give it one more go round in a couple of weeks.
 

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Well, if it's just locktite and not frozen in there, you are set like a jelly. You don't need a torch really, just some map gas. It might be a pita to get the flame in there but get the bolt good and hot and the locktite will release.

CAG
 
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