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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I knew I'd do it ...just a matter of time, but I've now got rid of my manifold and cat and replaced them with Moto Corse titanium replacements. I retained the stock mufflers though and have just got the bike back from Brian Jones (Moto Tech) who ran it on the dyno...very pleased as it's putting out 136.56 HP at the rear wheel...(with the stock mufflers).and 75.60 ft-lbs torque. Plenty for me and much more than you'll need for the public road...on a naked bike!. If I can manage it I'll post the graph. I also have the Micro Tek ecu fitted and the bike is as smooth as silk. Apart from looking much more clean..not to mention the 'technicolour' these pipes go the bike revs much more 'crisply' and feel far less 'choked' with the cat gone. I've posted some photos which I hope illustrate the vast difference this mod makes and where I fitted the Lambda valve and bung in the mid pipe. The pipes were expensive but I couldn't be happier...(Bank managers and wives just don't get it??). I'll have to update my 'photo album' now. Enjoy the photos.
 

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Very tasty!!
 

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:mouthwate Thats hot!! Hopefully I get some money so I can do that soon.
 

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Superb Brian..they look brilliant

Makes me want to run and but a set but no money just now. Bought another bike (F4) and also got BST carbon wheels for my brute.

Good knowing the bike is properly mapped for them also. How much more power over the std pipes is it making?
Regards.
 

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Did you have the O2 Bung welded on? My MV Moto Corse system didn't have the Bung for the O2 sensor. It came with the MV Racing ECU and I was told to not install the O2 sensor.

I have the same 1078RR (red) as you. :)

Interesting...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Did you have the O2 Bung welded on? My MV Moto Corse system didn't have the Bung for the O2 sensor. It came with the MV Racing ECU and I was told to not install the O2 sensor.

I have the same 1078RR (red) as you. :)

Interesting...
No, the Moto Corse exhaust mid pipe had the bung for the O2 sensor already fitted as can be seen in photograph 6 (there was a removable screwed in 'plug' in the bung to allow you to fit the sensor). Also there was an additional 'bung' as can be seen in photograph 8 which I 'plugged' with one of the two removable brass plugs that are on the stock exhaust. No... all the provision for fitting the sensor was on this exhaust as can be seen in the photos. (I'm using the Micro Tek ECU).
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Oh... one other thing noticed when fitting the exhaust is on the 'top' muffler. It has a little 'locating' plate where it fits into the mid pipe which has a corresponding 'slot'. (I have posted a picture of this on the stock exhaust to explain what I mean). Anyway this comes perilously close to rubbing against the swinging arm and to remedy this I turned a brass bush and fitted a matching stainless steel 'cap' head bolt and 'nylock' nut to replace the stock screw 'pin' that goes through the mid pipe bracket. I've posted some additional shots to illustrate this as I'm sure what I'm trying to say is as clear as mud!!. PS thanks for the kind comments guys, also sorry some of the close up pictures are a little blurred (my camera can only go so close).
 

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136 HP is pretty damn good! I have the full Ti system w/Microtek ECU and mine only hit 130 at the rear wheel :( Great set up no doubt.
 

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Nicely done Mr. Wells:

I'm at the same juncture with a new MV Agusta Corse exhaust and I appreciated your nicely documented installation and neat work.

I can well see the lack of clearance and appreciate you solution.

Best wishes,
Dick
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nicely done Mr. Wells:

I'm at the same juncture with a new MV Agusta Corse exhaust and I appreciated your nicely documented installation and neat work.

I can well see the lack of clearance and appreciate you solution.

Best wishes,
Dick
Thanks for your kind comments, I'm glad it was helpful. The brass screw in bush is not totally necessary and a simple bolt would suffice but I wanted to create a 'sleeve' for the bolt to pass through that was a 'nod' to the original screw in pin illustrated. Anyway I'm happy with the end result and wish you every success with your bike modifications. Cheers Brian.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
He is talking 1078RR stuff, yours is 910R. I find his a bit low for a 1078RR, for a 910r 130 is normal
The true rear wheel HP for a stock brutale 1078rr as indicated by BIKE magazine April 2009 in their 7 page comparison feature of a Brutale 1078rr versus Kawasaki Z1000 is 135.4 @ 10,400 RPM. As I have retained the stock mufflers and only omitted the Cat with replacement headers and mid pipe it is quite normal for the HP increase to be marginal (as mine is). Obviously replacement mufflers (which would hav made it the full system) would add to the HP increase as would be expected. Sometimes people can convince themselves that their bikes have much more HP than they actually have holding fast to numbers released by sales brochures etc. I have to say... numbers mean very little to me but 'rideability' does and I simply could not be happier with my bike as it is and a true rear wheel 136 HP is PLENTY for me on the street....on a naked bike!... PS..the Z1000 made 111.3HP @ 9600 RPM.
 

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like we all know thought there are many factors that can affect hp including dyno, temp, humidity etc. so it doesn't really matter, really thing to look at is b4 and after curves of hp/tq to see how they improved and where they improved.
 

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The true rear wheel HP for a stock brutale 1078rr as indicated by BIKE magazine April 2009 in their 7 page comparison feature of a Brutale 1078rr versus Kawasaki Z1000 is 135.4 @ 10,400 RPM. As I have retained the stock mufflers and only omitted the Cat with replacement headers and mid pipe it is quite normal for the HP increase to be marginal (as mine is). Obviously replacement mufflers (which would hav made it the full system) would add to the HP increase as would be expected. Sometimes people can convince themselves that their bikes have much more HP than they actually have holding fast to numbers released by sales brochures etc. I have to say... numbers mean very little to me but 'rideability' does and I simply could not be happier with my bike as it is and a true rear wheel 136 HP is PLENTY for me on the street....on a naked bike!... PS..the Z1000 made 111.3HP @ 9600 RPM.
I was not judging you by the numbers, more that he compared different displacements. Best is a before and after comparison (on same dyno) and for the brut is important the way torque is build up
 
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