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A little while ago I bought an 2010 F4 thats appeared in these forums before (the engine had an unfortunate event) and I'm in the process of fixing it back to be a going concern. I'm in the throws of repairing the damage and last thing I noted is the idler (or lower) cam chain sprocket is 'loose' (moves laterally and radially a lot too much). Have have torn the engine down to the point where I have taken the pin out that holds it in place but the sprocket simply does not want to come out.. Am I missing something as I have followed what the Engine manual said (as much as it does, not a great deal) and the Parts book shows nothing other than the sprocket and pin in place. Has anyone done this job before as it has me a little stumped, unless it has caused enough damage in the bore to restrict it coming out. Help would be greatly appreciated...
 

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It should lift straight out unless there is perhaps some burring on the case or sprocket which is causing it to bind. If that is the case careful use of a lever should get it out.

My 2013 F4RR had the shaft, gear, chain, tensioner and guides replaced under warranty after the shaft wore in much the same way as yours (but worse) generating gear noise from the centre of the engine.

I get the feeling mine wasn't the first to be replaced but of course the factory/importers admit nothing!
 

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Thanks for the feedback guys. I eventually took matters into my own hands after the local dealer wouldn't source any info either I didn't have. Got it out by 'gently?' beating it out parallel with the case top with a brass drift, and now looks like below.. Seems that I had read some of these engines have had some issues like this previously, and when I bought this one I had just suspected the former mechanic had forgotten to tighten the cam sprocket bolts on the top (could never why he would have loosened them) but now just strongly suspect the bolts on the cam vibrating out was a symptom of the bearing/ bushing in the lower sprocket flogging out.. have ordered a replacement so when it arrives I'll post a picky of what they 'should look like so can see the difference and hopefully prevent this from happening to someone else.. I reckon the 36000Km requirement for the sprockets/ chain replacement, it would be good to pull them out just to have a look and see if this is happening/ about too....... Could save an expensive ooops...
 

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At the risk of turning this into an oil and filter thread (and exciting you know who) it looks as like it has been short of oil. The shaft from my engine, at 9,000km, was just worn and had a very noticeable step and the gear wobbled on the shaft. The bush didn't appear to be worn or have run dry unlike yours so it could be that all the wear was on the shaft. I didn't get a chance to measure anything unfortunately.

I recall the dealer saying, before it was stripped, that he thought there was an issue with the bush material but who knows?

You could have a bush machined up???
 

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As for being run short on oil I couldn't tell you except the bike had had its 12000k service only a couple of thousand earlier by a shop so imagine unless it had a noticeable leak it should have been fine. Previous owner didn't mention anything about noise being made before and he was quite happy with it. But it did have a custom exhaust that didn't have any baffling in it so could have been, just not noticed...

I'll look into the bush getting machined up when I get a price back for replacements. If I can't guarantee the bush being made up won't do the same then I'll definitely get the replacement.
 

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Have you considered getting an analysis and report on the parts and the possible cause prepared by a suitable engineer and asking MV for comment?

All the 4 cylinder engines use this drive system but documented issues are rare....just you and I on this forum.
 

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Sorry for being tardy, I haven't had much in the way of feedback form other places on it but the local service centre was surprised that the bushing seemed to be made of stainless (except that magnet has no trouble grabbing it) and is slotted so springs back when closed up. I haven't heard yet of replacement items (factory) availability or price and have been in touch with an engine reconditioning firm to see if I can get pin machined down, sleeved and maybe phosphor bronze bush made. The firm doing the valve guides is waiting on appropriate blanks to be delivered fro the US and quickly machined and fitted. Replacing all 16 to be sure they are all consistent..
 

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This is good info not sure if this is my problem but I got something going on down there I'll be checking this thread for updates mines a 2007 but should be similar are you using a paperback engine manual if so where did you get it I've been looking for one for mine for a while
 

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This is good info not sure if this is my problem but I got something going on down there I'll be checking this thread for updates mines a 2007 but should be similar are you using a paperback engine manual if so where did you get it I've been looking for one for mine for a while
Just download the manuals for my site mate, and take em into a news agency or local printer in a memory stick and they make one up for next to nothing. It cost AU$40 for the 400 page manual, printed with plastic covers and the works.
 

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I guess I'm just a little weird and with OCD I buy manuals for everything I own I have looked at yours I just think I've become use to using the paperback I studied my R1 manual for a year when I had free time before I even pulled the motor I don't like guessing and the paperback just works for me and my A.D.D most people get it reading it once I read it no less then 6 times probably more till I feel comfortable enough to attack the job at hand knowledge is power plus saves money only doing something once.

I'd pay $40 bucks for a manual in a heartbeat just like buying parts it seems its always a mission impossible
 

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I guess I'm just a little weird and with OCD I buy manuals for everything I own I have looked at yours I just think I've become use to using the paperback I studied my R1 manual for a year when I had free time before I even pulled the motor I don't like guessing and the paperback just works for me and my A.D.D most people get it reading it once I read it no less then 6 times probably more till I feel comfortable enough to attack the job at hand knowledge is power plus saves money only doing something once.

I'd pay $40 bucks for a manual in a heartbeat just like buying parts it seems its always a mission impossible
Don't you get that my manuals are the same as the one's you buy, it's just a .pdf copy and you can have it printed, it's the same thing once printed and there are NO others.

Ask the kids to explain, my English must be shit.
 

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stainless steel

Sorry for being tardy, I haven't had much in the way of feedback form other places on it but the local service centre was surprised that the bushing seemed to be made of stainless (except that magnet has no trouble grabbing it) and is slotted so springs back when closed up. I haven't heard yet of replacement items (factory) availability or price and have been in touch with an engine reconditioning firm to see if I can get pin machined down, sleeved and maybe phosphor bronze bush made. The firm doing the valve guides is waiting on appropriate blanks to be delivered fro the US and quickly machined and fitted. Replacing all 16 to be sure they are all consistent..
P2 just to give you a little info on "SS" stainless steel is actually made from adding chrome & nickel to carbon steel. I think you need 25% chrome & 5% nickel added to start with. There are many different grades and some that will rust easily that are also ferrous. So if you found a magnet sticks that doesn't mean it's not SS! good luck
 

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Don't you get that my manuals are the same as the one's you buy, it's just a .pdf copy and you can have it printed, it's the same thing once printed and there are NO others.

Ask the kids to explain, my English must be shit.
Your English is fine Dons, and Alan gets it.

Alan, I've used We Print Today in Kingston......
 

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He stops in my place on occasion.
 

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I'd like to figure it out. Right now, I haven't had the time to help in any meaningful way.
 

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Donsy I understand what your saying I also should've said when I'm online it's on an iPhone I don't have a computer now after playing with it I've got your manual to download to my phone I'm guessing I could take my iPhone and have the place Chuck used to print it out but I haven't tryed yet if that doesn't work I'd still be willing to order one.

I do appreciate all help given I was just hoping to order one to save all the leg work and running around as I'm not in a rush to work on the bike yet anyways I really didn't think It was going to be a big deal to just order one and had nothing to do with not understanding what you were saying sorry if I didn't make my reasoning clear in my post
 
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