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Discussion Starter #1
Looking at adding a 2007 F4R with 9k+ miles to my garage. Its local and it's for a good price. $5500 and he said it needs a fuel pump and that's it.

Common problems / things to look for in the earlier F4 bikes?

Thanks


Oh and everyone loves pictures so here are a couple....


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That is one of the more bullet-proof models.
Things that may be problematic include the rear Air Box well-nuts. They degrade and can fail in a way that has them fall directly into the intake tract where they can be ingested into the engine.
The rear hub needs regular service or replacement with a Mitchy hub or equivalent.
The internal fuel lines need to be replaced every three years or so.
The rear brake master cylinder should get insulated to reduce heat related fade from the catalytic converter in the exhaust.

Outside of those minor niggles, this is an excellent price for a great bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you. I used your article to help convince the wife haha. How far are the air box nuts buried? And are they made of plastic?

I would be able to replace the fuel lines while I'm in the tank anyway.

I am happy it has the older style cush drive. Wont have to mess with that. Maybe new bushings at the most.

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The well nuts are the ones used on the small triangular covers attached to the air box. The rear one is the dangerous one. If you replace them with every use it is no big deal, but no one does that. Noel theknurl has detailed using a metal riv-nut as fool proof replacement. Go see his sticky.
The cush drives are not something you will likely replace.... the hub is a key maintenance item. Read up !!
 

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476775


The two circled are the offensive units. THe ar rubber well-nuts with a brass ferrule inside. When removing the Injector Covers (Part 9) the well-nuts sometimes disintegrate and drop their pieces onto the outboard throttle butterfly valves (which are directly below). Opening the throttle at that point would drop the parts into the cylinder.
Removing the Air Box to check these requires disassembly of the nose of the bike.
 

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Go for the “Mitch Hub” mate or you will be replacing hub bearings every 12,000kms. Not that doing the bearings is a massive embuggerance if you are tooled up to do it but I found they always seemed to be due at an inconvenient time. The peace of mind is worth it
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the info all.

I've been researching fuel pumps and is there a cheaper way to solve the problem? Startwin wants $422.

What about a Deatschworks or walbro? As long as the connections line up and it fits inside the housing and it puts out the same fuel pressure why not?
Screenshot_20200403-202727_Opera.jpg
Screenshot_20200403-202751_Opera.jpg


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The fuel pump replacement is Bosch and about $55.00 on Amazon. I have two of them here and everything else you would need inside that fuel tank.
476782
 

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Make sure to use the correct fuel lines. Must be able to be submerged into the fuel. There is a difference in fuel lines. If you don't then they will turn to mush on the outside and you will be cleaning out the inside of the tank in a yr or so. Heat could also be an issue. So you could look at upgraded water impeller, engine ice, ECU, adding another fan. Cheapest and best fix, just go for rides outside of town. She is a racebike at heart and wants to be ridden.

The real trouble trouble is when you decide to place her on a diet and discover magnesium, titanium, and carbon fiber. Or so a friend of a friend has told me.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Make sure to use the correct fuel lines. Must be able to be submerged into the fuel. There is a difference in fuel lines. If you don't then they will turn to mush on the outside and you will be cleaning out the inside of the tank in a yr or so. Heat could also be an issue. So you could look at upgraded water impeller, engine ice, ECU, adding another fan. Cheapest and best fix, just go for rides outside of town. She is a racebike at heart and wants to be ridden.

The real trouble trouble is when you decide to place her on a diet and discover magnesium, titanium, and carbon fiber. Or so a friend of a friend has told me.
10/4 buddy will do. Gonna look at the bike on Monday! Stoked!

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Check for fork oil under the axle/lower caliper area as they're prone to leaking. A fork seal replacement can be labor costly if you can't do it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Cheap and easy is what I like. If my TV has shown me anything it's just how finicky and precise everything needs to be.

Maybe out of two MVs I'll have one that works all the time? Haha

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Figifister;
You're looking at a 1st Gen F4
1st Remove the sticker that says 28-32Nm on the swing arm and retorque the pinch bolts to 15lbft/20Nm
2nd Fix the rear well nut problem with alloy rivnuts
3rd Buy a pair of Clic-R pliers on eBay ~$13
4th Remove the fuel pump and put 12volts directly to the pump, the wires have been known to break, color codes are in my big sticky
5th Replace the fuel lines with J30R10 line change the fuel filter too
6th Epoxy the 2 holes in the fuel pump plate and the 3 notches next to the next to the fuel pump plate mounting studs, they're what cuts the big O-ring
7th Remove everything inside the tank except #6 & #8 on page K02 of the parts manual......now connect #6 & #8. Now remove the gas cap and the grommet at the rear of the cap, plug the hole with silicone seal, put the cap back on

Don't worry about the cush drive because they never fail on 1st Gen MVs
I've got 39,000mi on mine and the valve cover has never been off since I got it at 4,200mi
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That's a mighty comprehensive list. Thank you for taking the time to go over everything. We shall see what all happens as plans develop.

Not mine yet....

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@silent...

In the drawing showing the problematic well-nuts, you have circled the front well nuts -- I do believe it is the rear ones that are a disaster waiting to happen -- 😎
 

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@silent...

In the drawing showing the problematic well-nuts, you have circled the front well nuts -- I do believe it is the rear ones that are a disaster waiting to happen -- 😎
Nope, he has circled the correct ones. They are at the rear, the drawing has the front of the air box showing, this can be confirmed by the U shape cut out that can be seen. And also the frame rail angle is coming up to the head stock.😉
 

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@silent...

In the drawing showing the problematic well-nuts, you have circled the front well nuts -- I do believe it is the rear ones that are a disaster waiting to happen -- 😎
Thanks for the peer check, really. It is nice to know folks are looking; I have circled the rear well nuts as noted.
 

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Looking at adding a 2007 F4R with 9k+ miles to my garage. Its local and it's for a good price. $5500 and he said it needs a fuel pump and that's it.

Common problems / things to look for in the earlier F4 bikes?

Thanks


Oh and everyone loves pictures so here are a couple....


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Don’t take a water hose to it to wash it.
 
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