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Discussion Starter #1
Seeing as how I have the cooling system all out I thought it would be prudent to see what's up with the thermostat. So I took it out, put it in a pan of water with a calibrated thermometer and fired up the stove. It starts to crack at 150F, begins to get serious about opening at 160F and is fully open at 180F. And when it's open the hole is plenty big enough for anything that pump can throw at it. I also noted that there are 8 holes around the circumference of the stat to allow coolant to bypass when closed. So I am not going to putz around with it. I think it's good as is.

I thought you'd like this info so you can toss it around at the next party you attend. "Say did you know that the thermostat in my F4--------". Watch their eyes glaze over and all that.
 

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I thought you'd like this info so you can toss it around at the next party you attend. "Say did you know that the thermostat in my F4--------". Watch their eyes glaze over and all that.
__________________
:),
funny
 

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i suppose this means removing the thermostat
will not help reduce coolant/engine temps

steve
 

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it will just take longer to boil over because it will be cooler when you stop.

You must also be carefull that the bike does not run too cool as it will start running on the warm up map which will not be mapped to the same accuracy as the running temp portion of the map
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good question and one I mulled over. When I had the thermostat out and was testing it I found that when it's fully open the area of open space between the center "disc" and the housing appeared to be greater than that of the opening itself. It lifts off the hole a pretty good distance. Other than being a disturbance to the flow I do not think it would reduce the total volume of coolant passing through when fully open. But that is not to say if it were removed the flow would increase. The only way to really tell would be to take it out and see what happens. All you'd have to do would be drain the coolant down below the housing, take it off (3 bolts), take out the t-stat, put housing back on and refill coolant.

What I did do is increase the size of the eight bypass holes around the rim of the center disc which lifts open to allow more coolant to bypass when it's closed. The theory being that it allows the rad to start cooling sooner. I can't say if it's helped or not as alot of things were done en masse as opposed to one at a time and test.

Lee
 
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