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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I noticed the other day that my F4 had a puncture. I took it yesterday to get the tyre off and maybe see if it could be fixed, or needed to be replaced.

So I'm at a place that specialise in motorcycle tyres and only motorcycle tyres. I'm watching what appeared to be their apprentice trying to get the wheel nut loose and struggling. He gets an extender bar for more leverage, but still no luck. At one point, I think he almost started crying.

Along comes a slightly more experienced guy. He starts helping the apprentice. Meanwhile, the other workers are looking over in interest, and slowly each one of them gets drawn over to possibly the biggest challenge they've ever faced. Before long, there are 5 guys, 3 of them experienced, trying to loosen the nut. The biggest guy is sitting on the bike with the back brake on to stop the wheel from turning. Another guy is pushing down on the pillion seat. The old guy had another wheel nut tool on the other side of the wheel. Two guys are holding the extender bar.

IT WOULD NOT BUDGE!

The old guy who seemed to be running the show puts his hands up in the air... "We're done, we can't do this. I've never seen this before".

I've never had this happen either. It honestly blew me away. The guys were honestly trying. And yes, rotation was clockwise (reverse thread) if anyone was wondering.

I rode home, my puncture still not fixed. So for now, I've ordered a $30 tyre repair kit. No idea what to do now.
 

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I bought a super-cheap store compressor and borrowed my mates air rattle gun, took me over an hour of off and on to get them suckers to loosen using a heat gun, they are over rated little rascels, lubed them up with anti seize and just hand tightened with a socket bar so I can undo in the future,
 

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Rattle gun and hear are the way forward. I have a 1100 W 500Nm half inch drive corded cheap gun from Amazon. That does it every time.
 

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2005 F4 AGO 2017 TVL RC
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I am going to ask the obvious question. Were they trying to loosen the nut in the correct direction? Clockwise?
 

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The culprit here is corrosion. The nut is aluminum. The axle is steel. If the nut is not periodically removed and the THREADS lubricated with NGLI2 or NeverSeez or the like, then galvanic corrosion will occur. It takes very little corrosion to "freeze" the nut in place.

Patience and a rattle gun will eventually break the "stiction" of the corrosion and the nut will spin right off. Don't crank up the air. Just sit there with the little hammers doing their job and it will come off.

Tools were designed by folks to make jobs easier.

Another amazing method used once on the small bolts that hold brake discs on was to apply an steady load to a breaker bar and just hold the applied force. Eventually "click" the stiction breaks and thighs come apart easily.

The key here is maintenance. Lube your THREADS ONLY and be patient when removing a stuck nut or you will simply do damage.
 
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Wing Nut
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You can borrow my "Shock and Awe" tool....uses a 1" impact air gun...available at your local heavy truck shop.
Guaranteed to loosen that nut.
Search for my tale in an old thread. We broke 2 (yes two !!) 3/4 to 1/2 adapters before I had this made.
Just pay shipping.
DSC00002.JPG
DSC00001.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am going to ask the obvious question. Were they trying to loosen the nut in the correct direction? Clockwise?
Did you read my full thread? 🤔🤣😂
Yes, reverse thread... They were turning it clockwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the fantastic responses. Seems I need a rattle gun and loads of patience!

I'm surprised they've used an aluminium nut. Aluminum and steel are not too distant on the Galvanic Series chart, so not a large potential difference between them. Aluminium is less noble (anodic) than steel, so the steel becomes passive. So yeah, the aluminum nut would be prone to corrosion. But this also depends on the grade of aluminum and steel used, whether the aluminum is anodized or not and the environment (saline or not). My guess is the aluminum nut is not anodized or an inferior grade, the bike was kept in a very corrosive environment (I bought it from another State, so not sure where it was kept) and it hasn't been removed for a very long time!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You can borrow my "Shock and Awe" tool....uses a 1" impact air gun...available at your local heavy truck shop.
Guaranteed to loosen that nut.
Search for my tale in an old thread. We broke 2 (yes two !!) 3/4 to 1/2 adapters before I had this made.
Just pay shipping. View attachment 484470 View attachment 484471
Very kind of you to offer the tool, but I hope to get it sorted in the next week or so. I think shipping from the US is taking a lot longer these days. I'm still waiting for a belly pan that I ordered mid November 2020... admittedly they had to make it first 😄
 

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Ditto to that Mitchy, I went t a local tyre shop that also did truck tyres. The biggest rattle gun I have ever seen, 1” drive. 2 seconds, job done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
All the tyre shops I called referred me to this motorcycle tyre shop... who didn't seem to have a rattle gun 🤔.

So when the car or truck tyre place gets my wheel off, do I clean up the nut and then torque it back up to the setting on the rim? Or do I torque it tighter? Or do I order a new nut in case there has been extensive corrosion and material loss? I'm confused as to why MV have used a reverse thread on a wheel that rotates clockwise to move.
 

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Let's start with why....if the axle rotates clockwise to propel the bike forward, then the nut will naturally stay tightened during motion. This is the same principal many cars (British especially) that use one hub nut...a knock-off hub nut...have hubs nuts that vary as to thread direction on the passenger and driver side for the car...

Your MV is the same as the Sprocket Side nut is normal thread.

What to do. Have the shop loosen the nut. Wire brush and clean the threads of the nut and axle. Lightly grease the THREADS ONLY of the axle and nut. I use a Pure Nickle NeverSeez, but any good NGLI2 grease will work. Replace the nut and hand tighten, then torque to 240 nm. (This is only 177 ft-lbs...it isn't astronomical.)

Then go change your tire.

You will find that it takes very little galvanic action to really cause this issue. Somewhere in this forum I posted pictures of this phenomenon...and it isn't MV specific.
 

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Take a look at this thread...POST 17...the last picture shoes the corrosion that can and does occur.

 

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..and this thread, post 76:

 
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