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Discussion Starter #1
So I took the F4 out for a spin today and during my ride noticed my turn signal switch was a bit wonky. I used it at least 5 times previous and then it stopped working. After playing with it it started working again. My guess is that the switch itself needs a cleaning. I have yet to open up the control to peer inside. One other thing. My High beams have done the same thing in the past but I don't ride at night a lot and the problem went away eventually on it's own. I'll probably deal with that at the same time as it's in the same place.

Any do's and dont's for contact cleaning on these? Is it a sealed switch or open?

Thanks in advance. You guys are always super helpful.
 

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My guess is that it may not be a switch fault but either a poor contact at the contact base plate or also highly prone to failure the two pin bullet connector which connects the plate to the harness.

The switch itself is self cleaning to a degree but still worth cleaning if needs be.

joe
 

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Just keep in mind that some contact cleaners will melt some plastics. Can't remember but I think the contacts are encased in boxes inside the switch housing on the handlebars. Pretty unusual for those to get dirty or corroded, but anything is possible. Proceed with caution, don't just blast away with aerosol spray.
 

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If your contacts need to be cleaned, you would be better off "burnishing" them with a tool made for the purpose, or even a q-tip soaked in alcohol.

Joe is more likely correct about the problem being in the mirror stalk and contact at the base. With the bike on the side stand and running...or the just the key on I suppose...loosen the two fairing support bracket socket head screws a bit, wiggle the bracket with the turn signal actuated until it works, then tighten the screws up while watching the turn signal.

The contacts are sensitive to pressure and too much or too little will cause them not to function.
 

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If your contacts need to be cleaned, you would be better off "burnishing" them with a tool made for the purpose, or even a q-tip soaked in alcohol.

Joe is more likely correct about the problem being in the mirror stalk and contact at the base. With the bike on the side stand and running...or the just the key on I suppose...loosen the two fairing support bracket socket head screws a bit, wiggle the bracket with the turn signal actuated until it works, then tighten the screws up while watching the turn signal.

The contacts are sensitive to pressure and too much or too little will cause them not to function.
That's right Chuck, The base plate contacts are sensitive and No 1 suspect if you still get issues is the little bullet connectors as the pins are tiny section and prone to corrosion. Clean them, grease them, and then you will get long service.
The switch itself is being cleaned by the sweeping action of the movement to go left/right etc ...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey guys. Thanks a lot for your suggestions. The Mirror contacts are probably the easiest to deal with so I'll pull the nose cone section off and give those a cleaning. Also gives me a chance to clean the dust out from behind the areas I can't reach with my obsessive microfiber cleaning.

If that does not fix it I'll venture further into the control itself. Taking apart grips controls always raises my stress level slightly as little parts tend to fall out that you have to figure out where they go and things rarely snap back together perfectly the first time. The nose cone and side panels are super easy. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well hell. :)

Took the F4 out for a simply wonderful ride today but the turn signals stopped working completely. After a guy stopped to tell me I took that as a hint that I might want to call it a day and head back home and figure out what was wrong before someone ran into me.

I pulled the nose cone off and cleaned the contacts really well but still no turn signals. Then I moved onto the switch itself and sprayed it with a good contact cleaner with no results other than a switch that's now slightly stiffer to use. I then got brave and went inside the grip and admired how well it was put together and cleaned the switch contacts some more without any real results. Tinkering around with it by honking the horn I got the turn signals to illuminate for a moment but they went out again. Figuring it was something loose I wiggled and tugged and tapped but could not get them to come back again. Due to the really high quality fit and finish inside I could not find any end points for the wires to test and verify this is a bad switch. I checked all the fuses and they were completely fine. The High beam when I first bought the bike was intermittent as well but it's come back and works fine now. It started to get dark and I buttoned everything back up and came inside probably a couple of pints low of blood from the mosquitos. :/

Any ideas are welcome. I'm thinking it's a failed turn signal switch but I'm not 100% sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hmm.. I guess only the cool kids get help... Wish I had a couple of Tamburini's or a 2010+ bike to enhance my cool factor... My Alternator post is also has views but no help.. Thanks guys... Don't agree and you don't get help... :/
 

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Eh... But.... I would not know...
And I dont agree so often...

The only time my blinkers did not work properly I changed the bulbs and it worked fine again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Eh... But.... I would not know...
And I dont agree so often...

The only time my blinkers did not work properly I changed the bulbs and it worked fine again.
Hey. That's actually useful.

Might check the bulbs themselves. I have not done that yet. I have my doubts but you never know the Italians may have wired the blinkers in series or something crazy like that. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
bad flasher relay?
That's a possibility too. Sounds like I'm going to be hauling out the shop manual in a moment and looking over the wiring diagram and playing with the multi meter. :)

Alternator seemed to go south too which is not cool.
 

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I haven't got any good ideas to give you.....electrical problems are hard to troubleshoot if you aren't hands-on with the meter. I am presuming you have no turn signals front and rear???
Do you have stock rear, or an integrated tail/stop/turn lamp?

So do this...got a volt meter? (or just 12v test light).... check power to the turn signal relay in and out. Check power going into the switch. Check power coming out of the switch on left and right circuits after moving the lever that direction. Check power to the signal bulb socket. Finally check continuity to ground on all the ground wires from the bulb sockets.

The fuse supplies power to the flasher relay, from there it goes to the switch where it is then connected to either right or left signal lamps and on to ground. Making the connection at the switch, completing the circuit, causes the relay to begin making and breaking the circuit to flash the lamps.
It's simply a capacitor with a magnetic switch....as the capacitor charges the switch pulls in opening the circuit which allows the capacitor to discharge and close the magnetic switch again...repeat.

So...you should have power across the fuse and to the relay....and again at the switch...and again, with the switch closed, at the lamps...and then back to the battery ground.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
All of these ideas have been great. I'm going to head out soon and start tinkering. Just sort of overwhelmed initially with "where the heck do I start".
 

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Start at the fuse, since it affect all 4 lights....then the relay, since it affects all 4 lights.... then the switch...but I bet it is before that. Wiring connections are the most common cause of electrical problems...Not components.
 

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my indicators stopped completely the other day, I replaced the relay and they work perfectly, originally they would come on but not flash, as in the bulb would just stay on, then it failed so new relay and tadaaa. saying that I don't normally use mine, too lazy lol
 

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Hmm.. I guess only the cool kids get help... Wish I had a couple of Tamburini's or a 2010+ bike to enhance my cool factor... My Alternator post is also has views but no help.. Thanks guys... Don't agree and you don't get help... :/
Posts like this certainly are not going to help you if you wish to join the 'cool kids' otherwise known as normal well mannered posters

That being said, I found the touch pads on the F4 far too sensitive, a slight degree of turn on the fairing stays stopped everything working, a bit dirt of the nose arms and stopped them working - this is all too much for a guy who only has blinkers on the F4 & F3 . I have no trouble with the blinkers on the other bikes, I just need to remember to stick out my hand :smoking:

Ok - so in the end I had enough & hard wired the F4 blinkers using snap off connectors and have not had a problem since - about 2 years ago.





It is important to make sure you make them long enough to pull out comfortably from under the nose cone so removal is just as easy as it was before with the touch pads - there's heaps of room under the nose cone so no problem storing the cable there.

This is probably not your problem but some food for thought for the future if problems persist.
 

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Reading your other post, have you thought that both problems may be related? I am not an auto electrician or that mechanically minded, but maybe a drop in voltage would mean not enough power for the indicators to operate? Have you tried a new battery, as the one you have maybe faulty?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Reading your other post, have you thought that both problems may be related? I am not an auto electrician or that mechanically minded, but maybe a drop in voltage would mean not enough power for the indicators to operate? Have you tried a new battery, as the one you have maybe faulty?
That's quite possible. Although I am getting 13v when the bike is off so it might be a case of bad luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Posts like this certainly are not going to help you if you wish to join the 'cool kids' otherwise known as normal well mannered posters

That being said, I found the touch pads on the F4 far too sensitive, a slight degree of turn on the fairing stays stopped everything working, a bit dirt of the nose arms and stopped them working - this is all too much for a guy who only has blinkers on the F4 & F3 . I have no trouble with the blinkers on the other bikes, I just need to remember to stick out my hand :smoking:

Ok - so in the end I had enough & hard wired the F4 blinkers using snap off connectors and have not had a problem since - about 2 years ago.





It is important to make sure you make them long enough to pull out comfortably from under the nose cone so removal is just as easy as it was before with the touch pads - there's heaps of room under the nose cone so no problem storing the cable there.

This is probably not your problem but some food for thought for the future if problems persist.
Thanks for the tip. There was a bit of sarcasm there although I was slightly annoyed too. In any event thanks for the help. Even if I had to poke and prod a bit.

I cleaned the living crap out of those connectors but it's certainly still possible there's an issue. I'll get the multi meter out. I may end up doing what you did if it does not behave. That's a quite innovative solution. One could take it a step further and put a second connector in to make it easier to remove the mirrors for track days.

BTW. Is that a Biturbo or a Quattroporte in your photos? I love the harsh angles those cars have in their styling and their interiors with suede and leather everywhere. Despite the not so great press they got they are simply awesome cars and sound spectacular. My favorites are the Biturbo Spyders and the Biturbo Coupes with all the harsh edges. We might not agree on many things but one thing we can agree on is you have good taste in cars.
 
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