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Discussion Starter #1
My TV has excessively side play at the rear sprocket, even I try to tighten the nut.
It make me feeling chain chewing the sprocket. So I took it of and cut a thick rubber from other car wheel rubber tube to the shape of the crown and put it back. wah lah... My TV launching much smoother and almost stop chewing sound of the rear sprocket and chain. Cost nothing only time.

here is the picture.





 

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I can't quite see from your pictures where you've added your layer of rubber? Maybe you could clarify?

If it's just pieces to take-up slack where the cush drive rubbers (#30) have been compressed then that should be OK, though this will probably wear fairly quickly. New drive rubbers are only about 10 GBP a set here and do need replacing every so often, I changed mine at around 7000 miles IIRC.

If you've introduced a layer of rubber into the stack of components that are located axially along the spindle then you could be creating issues that will manifest themselves fairly soon and cost a significant amount to correct. The spider (outer flange #27) is not meant to be tightly connected to the sprocket carrier (#37). The carrier should rotate on the spindle independently of the other components aside from the connection between the cush drive rubbers acting on the 'vanes' of the spider. The components in the stack, though not the sprocket carrier, should all be sandwiched by the nut to 220Nm. Introducing a layer of rubber into this stack isn't going to end well, possible bearing failure and or spindle damage.

OEM Spare parts for MV Agusta motorcycles, the numbers above relate to that.

There were issues on another members TV with the nut being loose and causing wear on components in the stack, the spacer (#31) if I recall correctly. This pushed the sprocket carrier closer to the wheel causing it to rub in the castellated face of the eccentric bearing carrier (hub assembly #4).

Maybe I've misunderstood?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Bumpkin,

I just cut a rubber shape as #27 Flange Rear Wheel and put it in middle of #27 and #37. That is it.

Because the play of sprocket of my TV are so much different with other TVs. I don't know why? but since I put the rubber layer in, it launch and smoother the bike. I will check regularly for any damage it could cause. Thanks for your warning.

The cush drive rubber seem ok at this moment, no moving back and forward.
 

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Since I have my rear wheel off I was planning on replacing the rear hub cushions (dampeners) to minimize the slop from 8000 miles of use/wear.

Per the OEM parts list I find two part numbers for item #30

80A0A3251 CUSHION, REAR WHEEL HUB MY17

8000B2151 CUSHION, REAR WHEEL HUB MY 15,16


Has anyone installed the MY17 cushions in the hub of their MY15 or MY16 bikes?

What are the differences? Are the MY17 cushions more durable?

It appears that the MY17 cushions are ten times the price of the MY15,16 cushions.

Suggestions for a source to procure the cushions?
 

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Strewth :surprise: that's a bit of a price hike!

I do note that to fit the MY17 dampers you'd also need to fit both the outer flange and inner ring from the MY17 bike as well, there are new MY17 parts for these on the Evolution Bike website. So, not just case of one damper superseding the other. Also the top hat spacer is also different. All these new parts, aside from the damper, have a zero cost on EB yet oddly on StarTwin it's just the damper and flange.

I've replaced the dampers on my MY16 bike a couple of times, they last about 4,000-5,000 miles, more if you're willing to allow a bit of slop. At the relatively low cost and ease of fitting that'll be the way I'm going rather than spending a whole heap more on other parts and dampers that would hope will last forever.
 

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Problem I'm having is finding a retail location in the USA that can get them. Seems my local dealer can't get an order filled from MV unless they meet a minimum $100us order.

Are there any International (European) dealers that ship to the US reasonably? Guess I could add the headlight high/low beam upgrade at the same time...
 

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Problem I'm having is finding a retail location in the USA that can get them. Seems my local dealer can't get an order filled from MV unless they meet a minimum $100us order.

Are there any International (European) dealers that ship to the US reasonably? Guess I could add the headlight high/low beam upgrade at the same time...
They'll fill the lower value order....just that the shipping costs won't justify it. That's your dealer parts managers decision/policy.

Try StarTwins....
 
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The dampers get changed during the service by the dealer. He told me it's something to check time to time on the bike. He also mentioned that if waiting too long to change them, it may result in issue with the hub, requiring hub change as well further parts.
 

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The hi/low adapter is only about 12GBP here so the value of the order will still be too low. If your dealer doesn't need to stock up with oil filters or other service items then maybe you should buy some yourself for future use. Either that or try another dealer.

The two times I've changed mine they were in stock at two different UK dealers.

I've been put off ordering from StarTwin in the past by high shipping costs. Admittedly for relatively low value items.
 

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The hi/low adapter is only about 12GBP here so the value of the order will still be too low. If your dealer doesn't need to stock up with oil filters or other service items then maybe you should buy some yourself for future use. Either that or try another dealer.

The two times I've changed mine they were in stock at two different UK dealers.

I've been put off ordering from StarTwin in the past by high shipping costs. Admittedly for relatively low value items.
Well, for shipping costs, just have to consider those while ordering something else of a bigger value... In my case, I still have the intention to replace the handguards with Rivale/Stradale/Dragster version to extend the visibility of my bike. I'll be including the dampers in the order, for example. Other way is to group orders with people in the same area to save shipping costs...
 

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It would be in your best interest to examine the hat spacer and eccentric hub. I had this happen to my dragster. Even the mechanic was stumped when he tightened the nut and there was still play. When I was doing maintenance on my motorcycle I notice the top hat spacer was grinding into the hub. Thankfully I caught early as it could've been a fatal mechanical failure. Since then I replace the entire backend with a first generation Mitch hub and all AEM parts.

Don't screw around, check the hat spacer against the hub.
 

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It would be in your best interest to examine the hat spacer and eccentric hub. I had this happen to my dragster. Even the mechanic was stumped when he tightened the nut and there was still play. When I was doing maintenance on my motorcycle I notice the top hat spacer was grinding into the hub. Thankfully I caught early as it could've been a fatal mechanical failure. Since then I replace the entire backend with a first generation Mitch hub and all AEM parts.

Don't screw around, check the hat spacer against the hub.
Hat spacer?
Are you speaking about #31 in the above exploded view?

Did the mechanic know why this was happening?
 

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Hey Atom,
thanks for the warning and I read your thread with the issue on your bike.

So far, prior to removing the left retaining nut, the clearance looks appropriate on my TVL with plenty of gap from the hub.

From what I can presume by review of the shop manual, one only has to remove the retaining nut, washer and top flange covering the 5 dampeners for replacement. correct?
 

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Hat spacer?
Are you speaking about #31 in the above exploded view?

Did the mechanic know why this was happening?
Yes number 31.

I don't really speak to those guys anymore so I have no idea.

In my opinion the reason it started was due to the nut backing off the axle allowing play in the stack. I think MV made a pretty big mistake with their design and that is why I moved away from second gen and towards first gen.

If the nut comes loose again there won't be any issue like before and the rear looks super sexy now.
 

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Yes number 31.

I don't really speak to those guys anymore so I have no idea.

In my opinion the reason it started was due to the nut backing off the axle allowing play in the stack. I think MV made a pretty big mistake with their design and that is why I moved away from second gen and towards first gen.

If the nut comes loose again there won't be any issue like before and the rear looks super sexy now.
How much play should there be?
Is there a design or service specification noted anywhere I might read?
 

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Yes number 31.

I don't really speak to those guys anymore so I have no idea.

In my opinion the reason it started was due to the nut backing off the axle allowing play in the stack. I think MV made a pretty big mistake with their design and that is why I moved away from second gen and towards first gen.

If the nut comes loose again there won't be any issue like before and the rear looks super sexy now.
How much play should there be?
Is there a design or service specification noted anywhere I might read?
Not sure how much play there should be. The new stack has very minor play if any at all. Maybe an expert can chime in on this. I’m just a rider that was forced to become a mechanic.
 

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Not sure how much play there should be. The new stack has very minor play if any at all. Maybe an expert can chime in on this. I’m just a rider that was forced to become a mechanic.
Copy that.
I wrenched on motos for 15 years; I prefer riding to wrenching.
Also, don't like others working on my bike either; auto, not so much.
 
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