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Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody located a fan temp switch that would allow the fan to start working at a lower temperature? My MV seems to be running really hot, even in cooler temps. This is just one of the things I'd like to change.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've got the temp sensor in my Aprilia, from AF1. Nice shop, excellent site. great forums. Maybe time to pick up the phone and call...

Thanks!
 

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I've changed the original coolant for 10% of car coolant (ready to use) and 90% water I also added a bit of 'supercoolant' just in case... (Even if I'm not convinced that it works..) I do not use my bike when temperature is below 0°C so I should not have trouble and the bike's running cooler and when hot goes cooler faster.
 

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james had his exhaust system jet coated, and he reported that his 750 runs cooler now. seat-of-the-pants observations, but probably real enough.

the water temp sensor is a thermistor. the resistance of it does down as the temperature goes up. if you want to have the fan come on sooner you could change the thermistor. not sure what options there are for this, but it's probably easier than going into the ECU and trying to change the trigger point.

alex
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I dont think cracking the ecu is a viable option. Maybe for a full race built to the gills bike, but not mine. I'm thinking more along the lines of a new thermistor for starters, then jet hot coating the pipes. The bike is regularly reaching 210 degrees right now and the ambient temp is 60 degrees F. That is WAY to hot. When the summer ambient temps rise, the bike may be unrideable due to engine temp concerns.

The thermistor I replaced in my Aprilia worked like a charm. Cost about $35US and the bike runs easily 20 degrees cooler. And it's by the same guy that Scary mentioned. I think I'm going to call him today.
 

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altoon....do u think a 20 cent resister in the wire could be used to fool the ECU into thinking the bike was hotter than it actually is, there-by turning on the fans earlier...just a thought, as we do a bit of that with cars air box sensors(cheating/fooling the ECU) to change the fueling to a richer setting. :naughty: :)

PS..I too did the HPC on the my Tuono headers (same as Jet Hot), it works well in getting the heat out the back instead of though the header walls. (keeps it inside the header more). I did it to keep the heat away from my rear shockie, everything else was a bonus. :)
The first thing I noticed was my muffler turning a straw colour with the extra heat it was having to cope with. Not to meantion the headers are "touch" cold heeps quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I sent an email to evoluzione asking about a low temp fan switch for the F4. I'll let you know when I hear back.
 

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Scary said:
altoon....do u think a 20 cent resister in the wire could be used to fool the ECU into thinking the bike was hotter than it actually is, there-by turning on the fans earlier...just a thought, as we do a bit of that with cars air box sensors(cheating/fooling the ECU) to change the fueling to a richer setting. :naughty: :)
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i thought about that too.

you can't add that resistor in series. that would do exactly the wrong thing. it would increase the resistance, which would make the ECU think the bike is cooler than it actually is, and the fan would come on at a higher temperature.

it may be possible to add a parallel resistor. but the question is what value?

alex
 

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Discussion Starter #10
evoluzione replied that they had never looked at the F4. I'll assume that they never looked at the Brutale eithere, and I have no idea if it's even an issue with them. They have not replied as to whether or not they would look into it. I did mention that I had a bunch of people on a message board interested in an answer.
 

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Yeah, I've had the same concerns about how hot the bike gets...regularly reaching like 207-210....it kinda scares me. Especially since it's about to turn Africa hot and humid here in North Florida...
 

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In AZ, where we have already had 95F+ days, my bike has run as hot as 230F, and I have even had to cut the ignition while stopped at lights. I plan shortly to run just 10% coolant, 10% water-wetter and 80% distilled water, as the temps never drop below freezing here, especially not for the next 8 months. Plus, as mentioned above and in an earlier thread, I also plan to get my headers ceramic coated, and a mid-pipe too, when I get one.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I recieved a reply from George at Evoluzione. They arent looking at the thermocouple yet, they need to look at a switch first. :wtf:

He didnt mention if the switch was part of the cooling system or something else, and no mention of if they ever plan on looking at it.

It's been 65 F here, my bike has hit 210 F. This aint gonna cut it when the temps hit 80/90/100 around here.
 

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Hey guys,
just to let you know, my SPR was running red hot around 110 degress celcius and when in traffic it use to turn off. I have come across some engine coolant called engine ice. It drops the running temp by about 12 degress celcius. Its not too expensive but not cheap either just dump all the fluid from thenradiator and flush out the system. Then add the coolant its a straight mix fom the bottle www.engineice.cc :smoking:
 

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Mine ussually comes on around 208F and goes back off when it drops back below 198F, although it won't do so when idling, the fan does not provide enough cooling, in other words it only cools if I cut the ignition or get it moving fast enough for long enough to cool down.
This makes for a lot of fan running, even with engine ice in the radiator.

I have noticed that the operating temp is actually about the same with the engine ice (I suspect the stock coolant is pretty high performance already), but it does seem to take a little longer to heat up when idling, and cools down faster once moving again.
 
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