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Discussion Starter #1
What is the best way to properly apply a big, thick tank sticker, without leaving any air bubbles and/or wrinkles on it ?

I have B3 800 and a clear transparent big and thick MV sticker, and although I took some patience in doing this I was still left with bubbles and wrinkles and both sides, at the ends. I did not use any special methods, just clean hands and stick it to the cleaned tank carefully. Wrinkles were not showing at first, looks like it has not been stretched propely.

BR, Milan
 

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Hi Milan,
I had exackly the same issue with the MV special parts tank pad. Had to bin the first one because it was looking so poor when applied. On the second attempt with another one I warmed the pad a good bit before applying and cleaned the tank with an alcohol wipe. Then got the boss (the wife) to apply it as she is much more patient than I.
Despite all this there is still one small bubble on one of the edges, so for me it's a case of leave it now until I find a better alternative.
jimboF4
 

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Besides being meticulous with cleaning the surface, do not touch the sticky side. Also. look up and use a Positioning Fluid...the one I use is a spray. It is usually soap and water based with a touch of alcohol thrown in. This fluid allows the sticker to be moved when initially applied and allows for bubble removal with a stiff, but flexible squeegee.
 

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Yeah Like Chuck said.
I have found success with one of those 'window cleaner/surface cleaner' bottles with a trigger action. Anyway I mix up some soapy water in the clean bottle and simply spray it onto the previously cleaned area that the 'decal' is to be applied.., the 'decal' is then simply positioned and most of the excess soapy water blotted out with a clean paper hand towel (blue roll).
Leave to dry and all should be fine.


Trying to fit it 'dry' usually always results in air bubbles trapped no matter how careful you are.
Brian.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. Got my replacement sticker, we'll give it a go with positioning fluid, if I can't find that, it'll be with soap and water.
 

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Make sure that you don't used too much soap - just enough to make it slippery and I like add just a little methylated spirit in it in a bottle like Brian suggests above.

I've done both my F4 and F3 & both are well, if not perfect, certainly 99.9% good. ;)

Also don't forget that the soapy mixture will prolong the glue's drying time, I leave mine to dry at least over night (which is probably overkill) before using the bike, but I like to be 110% sure.

Oh Milan, almost forgot, make sure you work from the centre out towards the edges when squeezing the liquid out, start at the middle work towards the edges in the directions of North, South, East & West if that makes sense. You can use a stiff but flexible squeegee as Chuck advises or if can't get one just use your fingers (as I do) with a soft rag underneath - take your time & check it again before leaving it to dry.

Again as Chuck said (can't be stressed enough) - IMPERATIVE not to touch the sticky side with your fingers.

Good luck :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Damit, just missed him. He was in the area last weekend @Phillip Island, could have asked him to help between the practice sessions :) :) Guess, I'll have to do it myself using all your advices.
 

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Here is mine - I knew I had a pic somewhere.....lol


Let us know how you got on Milan - maybe post a pic :)

Cheers
Rob


 

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If you use a positioning fluid, and a little bit of heat, say from a hair dryer, you should be able to apply new one sans wrinkles.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Still have not applied new tank sticker...waiting for sunny days to do that outdoors
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Applied a new one, as per your guidelines. Happy to say it now looks WORSE than the first one. :) :) Not blaming anyone but myself and the MV. The problem is a combination of the sharp angle on the tank hump, sticker size, its thickness and non-flexibility. No matter how I put it, can't get it on without side wrinkles on the apex of the hump. I even used a kitchen (pastry) roller-ball to get all the air bubbles out.
Solution - getting the much smaller sticker from MV, that does not go over the hump but ends before the apex.
 

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Milan, is the original from the factory or aftermarket?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
MV orig., factory.
I've now ordered from MV a shorter one. Older Brutale model, since they have no other than the one I tried for B3.
 

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The thickness of that protector would require plenty of heat input to make it pliable enough to take the multi-radius curve that the tank presents. The protector would have to be heated and applied while hot so that it not only conforms, but retains its shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The thickness of that protector would require plenty of heat input to make it pliable enough to take the multi-radius curve that the tank presents. The protector would have to be heated and applied while hot so that it not only conforms, but retains its shape.
I will try doing that next time, as clearly what you say has now been confirmed twice. I doubt I'll be able to get something other than a hair dryer, that I also have to borrow. Will it generate enough heat ?
 

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A high end hair dryer might. Me, I'd use a good multi-temp heat gun.

You can't really direct the heat at the tank though, because it is plastic.
 
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