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Tail Tidy/ Licence plate holder

27K views 41 replies 19 participants last post by  bacon 
#1 ·
Hi

I am looking for a tail tidy for the 800 Dragster that bolts to the rear seat and includes all the necessary lights. I have seen one from Bruggeman in Holland, does anyone know where I can buy one (they don't).............
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#4 ·
Hi Lacsap

I have spoken to Eric Bruggeman at Bruggeman Motoren. The tail tidy is originally one made for the Ducati Hypermotard from CNC Racing Italy with lights made by Barracuda Moto.
This was a one off that they did for their demonstrator bike but they have agreed to make another one for me. I do not have the cost yet but will let you know when I do.
 
#6 ·
At first, I spent ages trawling the net seeing if anything would fit or to have customised for my dragster.. then I finally decided filling out this area with a tidy might just make it look like any other style of bike and finally went for the Rizoma tidy with no guard because this kept the empty back end and improved the look of the bike no end


Obviously this is just my opionion but glad I had the change of mind now and kept the styling but was glad to get rid of the ugly factory plastic set up though
 
#7 ·
craig7. Pics? :)
 
#13 ·
Summary of tail tidy build with pictures - all up about 5hrs plus time for paint to

There are plenty of threads here on how to remove the tail arm so I won’t repeat it here, aside from a couple of learnings. 1. There are 3 connectors at the back of the swing arm under a small cover that allows you to disconnect electrically when you remove the whole tail arm. 2. You can reuse the standard axle pinch bolts if you make up some spacers like I did: 12mm ID, max 18mm OD and 30mm long - just note the correct tightening torque (28-32NM).

Objective was to tidy up the rear of the Dragster and set up for either integrating turn signals into the brake lights (red flashing brake lights like some US cars and bikes, and using a turn / brake / run module from ebay) or attaching small turn signals adjacent to the brake lights (ala New Rage turn signals). In the mean time, I reinstalled the the ugly “Spock Ear” indicators as a temporary solution. It was constructed at home with hand tools, drill and reciprocating jig-saw.

Firstly I removed the pillion pegs, as even our young children couldn’t fit comfortably on the pillion seat, and used the rear two mounts as a fitting point for the licence plate holder (they’re M8 allen heads). The mounts are made out of 3mm aluminium, dimensions 20mm x 50mm, with an M8 and M6 hole in them and a 90 degree bend at 20mm. I rounded each of the ends by using a suitable washer as a guide (20mm OD). When installed as pictured, the distance between each of the mounts is 100mm (inner face to face).

The Licence plate backing is made from the same 3mm alloy, dimensions 100mm x 180mm. The angle brackets attached to this backing are made from same alloy, dimensions 40mm x 40mm, bent at 20mm and cut triangular on one face. This triangular cut face has an M6 hole drilled in it; the other 20mm face has two 5mm holes cut, 24mm between centres. A small triangular cut was also made in each to provide clearance for the licence plate holding bolts.

In the backing plate I countersunk holes for each of the screw heads using an 11mm drill bit and used countersunk M5 allen screws, a total of 8 if you include the 4 required for the Spock ears, approx 20mm long. I drilled 2 further M6 holes in the backing plate for the licence plate mounts, which also serve as licence plate lights. Once all holes were drilled I painted it all black using engine enamel (primer and top coat) and baked it for an hour at 100 deg C to chemically cure it.

Electrically, I relocated the main wiring cable from the swing arm up to under the seat (it’s easiest if you take the whole cable out (disconnect it at the connector between the shock and the engine) and thread it through. I only cut one wire, which was off the license plate light, so that I could splice in the bolt style licence plate lights.

I used M6 screws, with washers and nylok nuts on the hinges and loctite on all other screws. All up it was pretty straight forward to do.

Feel free to ask questions if I’ve missed anything.
 

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#15 ·
Hi all,
An update to my previous post earlier in this thread - I picked up a Signal Dynamics integrated run, stop and turn unit and thought I'd
build a "plug and play" conversion kit so that I could delete the rear turn signals and switch back seamlessly if needed.

here's a vid of the module in action: https://youtu.be/3gesvfK0mjw

Some pictures below of the module, rough wiring diagram and how it looks installed.

Cheers,

NM
 

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#17 ·
#18 · (Edited)
Hi there,
I found the plugs on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261918907385

And all of the details you need for the module can be found here:
http://www.signaldynamics.com/tri-s...ke-light-and-running-light-conversion-module/

You don't need the dual load equalizer, but it comes with the kit for free; you do need to buy four 68 Ohm 4W resistors (this matches the circa 200mA originally drawn by each of the turn signals and brake lights).

Colour coding from the signal dynamics webpage:
Black Wire: Ground
Red/Black Wire: Brake Light
Orange Wire: Running Light
Violet/White Trace Wire: Left rear signal wire (after cut) leading to turn signal
Violet Wire: Left rear signal wire (after cut) leading toward front of motorcycle
Brown/White Trace Wire: Right rear signal wire (after cut) leading to turn signal
Brown Wire: Right rear signal wire (after cut) leading toward front of motorcycle


Cheers,

NM
 
#19 ·
I think you actually used the XP version of the module which includes running lights capability. Where did you get the resistors? Thanks for the information. I have the same grey Dragster and had located the license plate to the same location but I placed LEDs in the under tray vent to light the plate. I never did get the resistors correct on the small LED strips I installed for turn signals next to the break lights. The turn signals would flash once and the cut off.
 
#21 ·
Your wiring diagram has 4 resistors but it looks like the photo of your module only has 2 resistors. Did you double up the wiring to 3 resistors? I built a module this weekend with 4 resistors but the resistor bundle came out much bigger than in your photo.
 
#23 ·
Pretty sure there are 4 resistors in the picture, the two for the brake connectors are under the indicator ones.

I'm seriously considering doing this on mine as well, just havn't figured out what to do with the plate yet.
My plate are considerably bigger than Nicklemouses :bawling:
 
#24 ·
Hi there,
Here's a pic of one of the 2 x two resistor bundles during construction. I made them separately so that I could fit them into the small gaps under seat if needed.
And yes, they were 5W resistors not 4W.

Just make sure it all runs properly before you heat shrink everything.

Cheers,
NM
 

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#25 ·
Copied Nicklemouse's tail tidy design :), looks fantastic!! went with the NRC dragster rear tail indicators from Design Corse, which to my suprise came "plug n play" with resistors n plugs to suit the existing..
Has made the rear end of my dragster look in my opinion 10x sexier :mouthwate losing that dinner plate off the rear.
 

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#28 ·
Ok thanks NM, I had trialed the initial setup taping the underside of the plate in case it hit the swingarm and rode it rather agressivley over a local road with some large bumps and it seemed to perform okay in avoiding the swingarm. But as yet havn't performed any wheelies with it on.. but thanks for the advice as I will tilt the plate with more angle to give more clearance.
 
#29 ·
Hi all.
A quick update if you're planning on using the Signal Dynamics Tri-Star XP module on MY2016 bikes and newer - it appears that there's a tail light fault indicator on the tail light circuit as well, so you have to put an additional resistor across the tail light feed (shown as not connected on my diagram previous page). I found that a 220 ohm 1 watt resistor worked fine.

Cheers,

Nick M
 
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