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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got around to setting sag on my '00 F4, after many years... long story.

Anyway, a friend helped out, but it seems the fork springs are sprung for a little less weight. But does this look right? Taking all my weight (185 lbs) by adjusting the spring preload? It's all the way to the stops like this. Sag is better, but I would think it could be done with a combination of preload and compression, too?
 

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Looks like minimum pre-load...maybe you need softer springs?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
May be. I thought full out would be max pre load. Stock fork springs far as I know. I'm kinda average weight so i was surprised at the limit I needed to be at. Rear shock was full preload. Collars all the way down.
 

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The picture you posted shows the preload set all the way out, i.e. minimum preload on the springs.
 

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That does look like you have it set to minimum preload and not max. Should set sag wearing your full gear as well if you didn't.

I'd recommend stopping by a local suspension shop if available. Most charge a reasonable setup fee and there will be no second guessing. Last thing you want is a bike that bottoms out and handles unsafely.
 

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Spend $50-75 with a pro..have him set the sag and then tune your bike to how you ride. You won't be sorry
It might even be as little as $25 if you find a "clinic" set up by a dealer...
 

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Mine are wound all the way out, but that's because my suspension guy determined I needed a higher fork oil level.

There is no right or wrong by looking at the preload adjusters, there is right or wrong by measuring sag. If you're 185, it could be that the springs are slightly heavy. I believe they are 1.0kg, which is for heavier guys. And the rear spring is for about a 150 pound rider if I remember right. I have a Penske shock on mine, but I'm not sure what spring it is.

It's a very similar problem that the 996/998 bikes had. Springs on the forks for heavy guys, springs on the rear for light guys (unless you got a biposto and then it might be closer to right).

Set the sag with you on it to be about 1/3 of total suspension travel. You'll need help with this from at least one other person.

Then set the compression and rebound damping such that the fork deflects and returns at the same speed, and from the time you bounce on it to the time it fully returns is between half a second and a second.

This is just a good place to start before you fiddle more.

I also found that you need to lift the rear of the bike about 10 or 15mm (measuring vertically from the rear axle to some hard point on the frame) from stock, depending on how you like it to turn. A 190/55 rear tire adds some height from the axle to the ground which also helps.

I don't remember where I wrote all this stuff down, it's been so long...

And I see you're in Phoenix. I was going to meet up with the www.azduc.com people at some point, if I do I'll let you know and we could go over some basic stuff. But you really need a new rear spring to get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
look like a pair of erect nipples......

Maybe this is why I like it like this... ? :naughty:

There's a shop in Phoenix that has a great track day setup thing; they adjust suspension, levers, chain, etc. All for $35-$40 I think. And they do it once a month, too. Gotta catch the next one.
 
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