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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,

I'm headed to Summit Point Main tomorrow night with the MV. Yaaaaaaaay.

Just got a couple of questions:

1) My front end feels really harsh. I'm about 204lbs. How much compression damping should I take out of the forks to start with? Or should I not bother touching it at all.

2) How do I remove the rear fender? I was out on the bike today and when I got home the right tail light was all busted up and hanging on my rear tire. I don't know if it melted from the heat or what but it's real freakish. I think the dealer will warranty it but I want to take it off in the meantime.


Thanks in advance.
 

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Turbo329 said:
1) My front end feels really harsh. I'm about 204lbs. How much compression damping should I take out of the forks to start with? Or should I not bother touching it at all.
I suggest you try 14 or 13 clicks out. The standard setting is 12 clicks out, while 18 out is "soft". I was running 13 click out at the track and it felt good (my weight is ~215 w/gear)

Turbo329 said:
2) How do I remove the rear fender? I was out on the bike today and when I got home the right tail light was all busted up and hanging on my rear tire. I don't know if it melted from the heat or what but it's real freakish. I think the dealer will warranty it but I want to take it off in the meantime.
To remove the fender, follow this (which is is from JamesC - track prep)
-Lift rear cowl
-Unscrew (4) M8 nuts to free ECU
-Disconnect (3) sure-seal connectors on right side of subframe that go through undertray hole to disconnect turn signals and tag light
-Unscrew (2) boomerang exhaust bracket bolts to free exhaust halves
-Unscrew lateral screws on exhaust hanger (there is a hole cut in the undertray to get at these)
-Exhaust pipes will now pivot or move slightly
-Unscrew (3) M8 bolts to free tag and blinker support, pull assembly free
-Rescrew lateral screws
-Rescrew (2) boomerang bolts to stabilise exhaust halves
-Replace ECU
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Awesome info but I have bad news.

I tried to turn on the bike and my dash display did not work. The bike fired up and stuff but there was a blank reading on the dash. What the heck happened.

My trackday is in jeopardy all together now. Doh!

I don't have any luck this season.

altoon said:
I suggest you try 14 or 13 clicks out. The standard setting is 12 clicks out, while 18 out is "soft". I was running 13 click out at the track and it felt good (my weight is ~215 w/gear)



To remove the fender, follow this (which is is from JamesC - track prep)
-Lift rear cowl
-Unscrew (4) M8 nuts to free ECU
-Disconnect (3) sure-seal connectors on right side of subframe that go through undertray hole to disconnect turn signals and tag light
-Unscrew (2) boomerang exhaust bracket bolts to free exhaust halves
-Unscrew lateral screws on exhaust hanger (there is a hole cut in the undertray to get at these)
-Exhaust pipes will now pivot or move slightly
-Unscrew (3) M8 bolts to free tag and blinker support, pull assembly free
-Rescrew lateral screws
-Rescrew (2) boomerang bolts to stabilise exhaust halves
-Replace ECU
 

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your dash is dead?

does the tach sweep when the key is turned to the on position? or is all functionality gone?

i'd try to reseat the connector at the back of the display first. getting at it will require removing the front faring, of course. but if that does not fix it, i don't have a lot more to offer. there isn't a fuse specific to the instrument cluster.

alex
 
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