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Discussion Starter #1
Have become obsessed about setting the sag on my Brutale 1090RR and having read up on the internet i think i know what to do.

Can someone confirm what the value in mm should be front and rear between the suspension fully extended and then with myself sat on it .

Tried to set it last night but it seemed to want alot of pre-load adding , so questioned whether or not i fully understood what i was doing.

My weight at the moment is around 14 stone - 196lbs - 89 kg , that is without my gear on , could this be the reason for the extra pre-load required ?

Any advice welcome

Steve
 

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Hi Steve

I wonder where all these smart arse guys are when someone needs some real help.
I can't help you much as far as measurements go as by bike set-up is way different than most other peoples bike, I assume also you have the ride height measuring tool ?
What is the current reading of your rider sag ? ( In mm please as I have no idea what a stone is, too much sand over here :naughty:)
Be aware also that when you adjust pre-load in the MV, which you do in order to change the sag reading, you will also affect the ride height.
Write all the measurements down before, during and after adjustments.

According to Andrew Trivett from the book "Sportbike Suspension Tuning", your rear rider sag for road use should me between 30-35mm on a modern motorcycle, and no less than 30mm in front for road use.
Hope this helps you. Tell us what you have and we might be able to help you some more.
 

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Have become obsessed about setting the sag on my Brutale 1090RR and having read up on the internet i think i know what to do.

Can someone confirm what the value in mm should be front and rear between the suspension fully extended and then with myself sat on it .

Tried to set it last night but it seemed to want alot of pre-load adding , so questioned whether or not i fully understood what i was doing.

My weight at the moment is around 14 stone - 196lbs - 89 kg , that is without my gear on , could this be the reason for the extra pre-load required ?

Any advice welcome

Steve
Hi steve this might help,http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=42923
donsy is spot on. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I will go and take some more measurements .

I really just want to confirm that i should be looking at the difference between fully extended to rider sat on or bike static to rider sat on ?

Also once the sag is correct and more pre-load has been added and the ride height changed should i then adjust the ride height .
 

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I will go and take some more measurements .

I really just want to confirm that i should be looking at the difference between fully extended to rider sat on or bike static to rider sat on ?

Also once the sag is correct and more pre-load has been added and the ride height changed should i then adjust the ride height .
Hi steve,also I forgot a few things this will help you greatly,cheers eddy
do ride height first.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBlqVx4mWUw
 

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Discussion Starter #7
In what way do MV set up suspension differently?


I do not have a ride height tool and all i seem to be doing at the moment is getting more confused .
 

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In what way do MV set up suspension differently?


I do not have a ride height tool and all i seem to be doing at the moment is getting more confused .
Steve for road use go for 35mm rear sag,then adjust your rebound and compression to your liking,set the rear compression and rebound to minus then take the bike for a run use the same road,pull over and keep adjusting thes settings to your liking,there is no magic number for rebound and compression,if its kicking you off when you hit a bump just add more rebound the + way,if compression is to soft just + the compression.cheers eddy
ok please tell me if the video is not correct in adjusting the rear shock,and if so what is the correct way.I would love to know in plain english.:banghead:
 

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also steve set your hi speed compression setting to full minus then add 1 click,this setting is not for hi speed as you would think.trust me set it to 1 click,then stuff around with you low compression setting.you will get a smoother ride,you are not on a race track.I think?
 

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boingers?

Steve;
download the factory manual.....on my hard copy its page F-72
http://my.agusta.us/

then read it......MVs and Ducatis use a ride height tool to set ride height and sag......NOT doing it their way, affects the front end too

Eddy;
"if its kicking you off when you hit a bump just add more rebound the + way" WHAT? if you hit a bump......thats compression not rebound:jsm:

if its 'kicking you off' on bumps you have;
too much compression
or too much spring/preload

now Steve is a big guy so he will need a heavier spring......
if he sets it the MV way he will get too much rider sag....MV doesn't even consider that go figure?

i like light springs with more preload......and very little damping, but thats me, i was the low speed test rider for F.W. Egli along time ago

i bought a set of Ohlins springs for my Aprilia RSVR, series #1091 160mm long......i'm going to go one size lighter on the rear, 7.5 N/mm stock was 10.5 N/mm (MVs use the same length spring)
the fronts are 0.85 kg/mm the lightest you can get:jsm:

i will never sell the RSVR, its as stable and forgiving as anything i ever rode:)

i weight ~175 lbs w/o gear
 

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Steve;
download the factory manual.....on my hard copy its page F-72
http://my.agusta.us/

then read it......MVs and Ducatis use a ride height tool to set ride height and sag......NOT doing it their way, affects the front end too

Eddy;
"if its kicking you off when you hit a bump just add more rebound the + way" WHAT? if you hit a bump......thats compression not rebound:jsm:

if its 'kicking you off' on bumps you have;
too much compression
or too much spring/preload

now Steve is a big guy so he will need a heavier spring......
if he sets it the MV way he will get too much rider sag....MV doesn't even consider that go figure?

i like light springs with more preload......and very little damping, but thats me, i was the low speed test rider for F.W. Egli along time ago

i bought a set of Ohlins springs for my Aprilia RSVR, series #1091 160mm long......i'm going to go one size lighter on the rear, 7.5 N/mm stock was 10.5 N/mm (MVs use the same length spring)
the fronts are 0.85 kg/mm the lightest you can get:jsm:

i will never sell the RSVR, its as stable and forgiving as anything i ever rode:)

i weight ~175 lbs w/o gear
fixed,if you want less rebound,the + reduces the rebound and stops you from being thrown of the bike,if the + is full hard this will increase dampning stiffness,full - will throw you off. technical glitch,my brain.
cheers :popcorn:
 

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fixed,if you want less rebound,the + reduces the rebound and stops you from being thrown of the bike,if the + is full hard this will increase dampning stiffness,full - will throw you off. technical glitch,my brain.
cheers :popcorn:
When are you coming to brisbane,free bed,and you can work on my bike,LoL.:):)
 

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Steve;
download the factory manual.....on my hard copy its page F-72
http://my.agusta.us/

then read it......MVs and Ducatis use a ride height tool to set ride height and sag......NOT doing it their way, affects the front end too

Eddy;
"if its kicking you off when you hit a bump just add more rebound the + way" WHAT? if you hit a bump......thats compression not rebound:jsm:

if its 'kicking you off' on bumps you have;
too much compression
or too much spring/preload

now Steve is a big guy so he will need a heavier spring......
if he sets it the MV way he will get too much rider sag....MV doesn't even consider that go figure?

i like light springs with more preload......and very little damping, but thats me, i was the low speed test rider for F.W. Egli along time ago

i bought a set of Ohlins springs for my Aprilia RSVR, series #1091 160mm long......i'm going to go one size lighter on the rear, 7.5 N/mm stock was 10.5 N/mm (MVs use the same length spring)
the fronts are 0.85 kg/mm the lightest you can get:jsm:

i will never sell the RSVR, its as stable and forgiving as anything i ever rode:)

i weight ~175 lbs w/o gear
And also noel,not everyone has a ride height tool,the video will still give you a pretty good setup,Mine is great, and I followed this video for the rear setup,now we are not talking race setup here.This is just a way to get a better feel out of the back end,come and ride on our roads,they are fuc+# crap.
 

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And also noel,not everyone has a ride height tool,the video will still give you a pretty good setup,Mine is great, and I followed this video for the rear setup,now we are not talking race setup here.This is just a way to get a better feel out of the back end,come and ride on our roads,they are fuc+# crap.
Eddy;
well, i know somebody that has ride height tools:stickpoke

and trust me OZ doesn't have a lock on shitty roads.....there are plenty in the city that force you up onto the pegs......the infrastructure here is in the toilet......but illegal aliens will still do your yard for $80 a month same as 30 years ago......not that i would hire them

the road coming back from Mom's is so bad i'm going to back off on the Brutale's suspension, it was professionally done......for someone that was into pain:wtf: or was a real lardass......because it beats the fuck out of me. its to the point that the bars are seriously hard to hang onto:wtf: i'm not a flyweight ~175
 

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Haha

In what way do MV set up suspension differently?


I do not have a ride height tool and all i seem to be doing at the moment is getting more confused .
Don't worry Steve it confuses me too. Buy this book as I found it priceless in helping me "Sportbike Suspension Tuning" by Andrew Trivett .
I am just giving a basic explanation, I am sure there are guys on here that will give you a detailed lecture on this subject. The biggest problem I see is that I am yet to see a guy on here who has the ride height tool for the newer bikes, like yours, so following Eddy's idea is not a bad idea, although I would measure from the top of the rear axle nut to the exact same spot on the bike every time. That will help eliminate things like tyre size and tyre pressures which will affect readings.
The main thing is that you need to realise how changes you make affects the geometry of your bike. It is true that to adjust the SAG on your bike you have to adjust spring preload. Rider SAG is the one you want to test. If you tighten up the rear spring on your bike, to reduce SAG, then it will also raise the rear of the bike, therefore giving the bike a sharper turning feeling.
The same can be said for the front, adding preload here though, will lift the front and do the opposite with you steering, all of a sudden the bike will want to run wide.
My point is such, measure you ride height before you adjust anything, then again afterwards, then you can play with the ride height adjuster to get it back to were you want it or as you like, at the front you can lift or drop the forks in the clamps to get the results you want.
Start with the factory settings on Compression and Rebound Damping and adjust them one at a time only.
I am not going into the details of Compression or Rebound till you ask for that, sound good ?, hope it helps mate.
:popcorn:
 

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:wtf::wtf:
14 lbs = 30.8 kg since when joe :stickpoke





14lbs = 6.35kg or am I missin summit here :ahhh:


Course that's even more 'rocks' Donsy:naughty:
 

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Yup

:wtf::wtf:
14 lbs = 30.8 kg since when joe :stickpoke





14lbs = 6.35kg or am I missin summit here :ahhh:


Course that's even more 'rocks' Donsy:naughty:
I think Joe is taking the piss out me ''cos I don't know primitive measuring things :banghead:
 

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I think Joe is taking the piss out me ''cos I don't know primitive measuring things :banghead:

hahahha

Sorry lads yes..Calculation should be 14/2.2 as there's about 2.2 Ilbs in a kilo and 14lbs in a stone.

Please forgive me I have a man cold of the worst type :freezing:

There is a saying." sometimes it's better to say nothing and appear stupid than to open your mouth and confirm it " lol : )
 
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