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Hoping someone has a solution for this problem. My garage has no electrical outlets and no way to plug in my battery tender. (Extension cords won't work, nor will anything else.)

Has anyone discovered a way to power a battery tender with an auxiliary battery, like a car battery or something similar? I'd be able to recharge the car battery in my apartment whenever needed, and I'm sure that'd be easier than trying to take out the battery on an F3 675 all the time.

Would love to hear any suggestions.
 

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Boat owners in this area use solar panels to generate the small current required.
One of the features that sets the good ones apart is a diode arrangement that takes away the need to unplug when there is no sunlight.
 

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You could just use a pigtail to hook up a car battery to the bike battery overnight as a parasitic supply.
 

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I just installed a antigravity lithium battery... ytz 10-12 cell... 360 CA's. They don't drain themselves at all which basically means no real need for a tender. I would pair that with possibly that solar battery tender which might actually work indoors(off of whatever light is in the underground garage? Our F3's don't have alarms so the parasitic drain is minimal.
 

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I think Lithium Fe04 battery still because it will actually help the life of the sprag. It spins the crank much faster now.

But another option would be to use a cigarette lighter inverter... if your bike and car are close to each other. I'm assuming you have a car in the same garage. It will cost around $50... but I'm not sure if you could really leave it plugged in for long periods unattended. Don't end up with a dead car and bike battery!
 

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Our F3's don't have alarms so the parasitic drain is minimal.

not true! "Something" is always powered (I think it's the ECU) so after a couple of weeks not riding the battery is dead or at least low, even if it's a lithium one. I'd keep it on the charger every once and a while, not necessarily all the time
 

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not true! "Something" is always powered (I think it's the ECU) so after a couple of weeks not riding the battery is dead or at least low, even if it's a lithium one. I'd keep it on the charger every once and a while, not necessarily all the time
Nephalem;
There's something wrong......measure the milliamp draw with the key off
It can't be the ECU it's on a switched circuit

:wink2:
 

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well I might do that, but I dont understand why my old Honda's battery had absolutely no issues to stay connected for the whole winter and the battery in the MV can't survive for like 4 weeks in summer... something IS draining the battery on the F3 800 (even with the Lithium one)
 

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well I might do that, but I dont understand why my old Honda's battery had absolutely no issues to stay connected for the whole winter and the battery in the MV can't survive for like 4 weeks in summer... something IS draining the battery on the F3 800 (even with the Lithium one)
Nephalem;
Put a meter on it and start pulling fuses.....
Don't forget to check the starter solenoid and it's connections VERY carefully
It could just be corrosion

Starter solenoid is wired hot all the time.....to see if it's the solenoid remove the negative battery cable, then the
Big cable from the battery to the solenoid reconnect the negative cable and check the meter


:wink2:
 

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Interesting that the ECU is not the parasitic drain. Keep us posted Nephalem.

The owners manual does say to remove the main 'charging fuse' if storing bike for long times. Maybe the charging circuit/rectifier has parasitic drain when not running?

Very old bikes have zero parasitic drain. Kick start bikes with no ECU can even run with no battery.
 

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Interesting that the ECU is not the parasitic drain. Keep us posted Nephalem.

The owners manual does say to remove the main 'charging fuse' if storing bike for long times. Maybe the charging circuit/rectifier has parasitic drain when not running?
.
Look at the top of the solenoid where the fuse plugs in ......corrosion doesn't have to go very far to start a drain...
Removing the fuse stops the problem

:wink2:
 

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I like the solar panel option if you can get a lead to it from somewhere exposed to sun light outside, otherwise a well charged spare car battery can serve as direct voltage feed for your bike minus the need for the Battery "Cooker",. I mean Tender. Another more progressive option would be to connect a pick tail or plug to the light fixture providing you your light within the space if near enough to access, being sure of course to recognize any voltage supply variances to the fixture above 110-120V standard.
 
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