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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2013 F3 675. I've had this bike for less then a month, It was hard to start when I first got it but it is now worse. Sometimes it won't turn over at all but all the lights work, other times it will turn over for a couple of seconds then stop. Turn the key off and try it again and same thing, I am no stranger to motorcycles I have been riding and working on them my whole live, but this is my first Augusta. I'm thinking bad battery or Sprag clutch but I am unsure as I don't know what all the symptons are for a bad sprag clutch. I searched the forums but didn't find this particular issue. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Welcome to the Forum...methinks you need to improve your search skills.

There are 44 threads on the SPRAG in this section.
There are 40 threads on the BATTERY in this section.
There are 64 threads on STARTING issues in this section.

485995


485996


485997


Those are just the threads in the 3 Cylinder Maintenance section. There are more in other sections of the forum. Search can be an effective tool. ADVANCED SEARCH gets you more refinement. Advanced Search appears when you type a term into the SEARCH box at the top of the page.

I invite you to peruse a bit; the gist of all to f those threads is to maintain your battery on a tender, upgrade your sprag to the Euro 4 version, and have your ECU updated to the latest start protocol.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to the Forum...methinks you need to improve your search skills.

There are 44 threads on the SPRAG in this section.
There are 40 threads on the BATTERY in this section.
There are 64 threads on STARTING issues in this section.

View attachment 485995

View attachment 485996

View attachment 485997

Those are just the threads in the 3 Cylinder Maintenance section. There are more in other sections of the forum. Search can be an effective tool. ADVANCED SEARCH gets you more refinement. Advanced Search appears when you type a term into the SEARCH box at the top of the page.

I invite you to peruse a bit; the gist of all to f those threads is to maintain your battery on a tender, upgrade your sprag to the Euro 4 version, and have your ECU updated to the latest start protocol.

I searched for over an hour last night found a lot of stuff about the sprag and battery issues, just nothing on this particular issue. I will keep searching.
 

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Have you measured battery voltage at rest?
Have you measured battery voltage under load?
Do you keep your battery on a tender?
Have you checked the start solenoid connector for sign of heating?
Have you cleaned the grounds?

Your issue is not particularly unique. The bike doesn't fire off as you would expect it to. Eliminate the battery first, then the start solenoid, then we'll get into fueling.

Do you have the Workshop Manual?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had the battery tested today, checked good at rest. have not tested it under load yet, as I don't have a tester. The bike is on a battery tender now. I didn't know that is something you had to do with these bikes until I started reading up on it. I was able to jump it at the starter solenoid today and it turned over just fine. I also was able to eliminate the clutch switch as being the issue. Every thing I know about Japanese bikes points me to the starter button being faulty, but I am unsure on this bike. Can anybody confirm if I'm on the right track. The closest Augusta dealer to me is 4 hours away so I'd like to try to solve this. Thanks
 

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This isn’t a Japanese bike. A starter button issue, while not out of the realm of possibility, is unlikely.
Again, have you sourced a manual, or are you just taking a shotgun approach!?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This isn’t a Japanese bike. A starter button issue, while not out of the realm of possibility, is unlikely.
Again, have you sourced a manual, or are you just taking a shotgun approach!?
I understand it's not a Japanese bike but they are the only bikes I have experience with. Have not looked at a manual yet. At this point I was trying to use my 35 years of motorcycle repair experience, and hoping somebody here had seen this before. I will look at a manual, and get it figured out. Thanks for the help.
 

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Is it turning over quickly then stopping completely? Lots of safety systems involved on the starter circuit like the clutch switch, kickstand switch etc. that can kill the signal to the starter solenoid, as well as a bad connection in the button. Put a test light on the solenoid and see if its getting the signal from the starter button when the problem happens.

Or, is it turning over slowly and struggling? It a new bike to you, so maybe you're not used to what it sounds like as "normal". MV's need 1000 rpm cranking to fire the ignition. Even a battery with 12.5VDC at rest can die quickly with a load. You want 9.6VDC+ while cranking. If not, get a good battery, stay away from Wal-mart.
 

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I've got an almost new bike 2019 dragster, 1200 km. Same issues. Had it looked at under warranty and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Thought the battery might be a bit weak so fitted a new battery.
Good for a week, but then a week later the same thing.
Of course when I took it back for the first service it started first time every time. I was told there was a fix for this issue and they said my bike had this done.
So now I'm taking note of battery voltage daily to see if I can see what's going on.
Keep posting if you make any head way on this issue.
 

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Gentlemen, these bikes have a Factory Installed charging pig tail for a reason. There is significant parasitic draw.

@Cooter!: 9.6VDC is a dead battery. 12.5 VDC is an undercharged battery. A new, fully charged, 6 cell motorcycle or car battery provides 2.2 VDC per cell...13.2 VDC at rest.

486015
 

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I understand it's not a Japanese bike but they are the only bikes I have experience with. Have not looked at a manual yet. At this point I was trying to use my 35 years of motorcycle repair experience, and hoping somebody here had seen this before. I will look at a manual, and get it figured out. Thanks for the help.
@doobiej: You can get you manuals here: MV Agusta Team Double 3 Racing or you can send my your email address and I'll DropBox you the manuals.

Checking voltage at rest is not a good indication of battery condition. You need to have your battery Load Tested and any car or bike shop...or battery retailer for that matter...should be able to do that. I have the capability in my home garage.

MV Agusta, and other brands, have low-voltage cut-outs in their ECU programming in order to protect delicate electronics. If your battery is not keeping voltage up during the start sequence, then there will not be permission to start. IT is a key to subsequent troubleshooting.

Some questions:
Does the dash go through the self-check at "key on"?
Does the fuel pump prime for three seconds at "key on"?
Does the engine turn over when the start button is pressed AFTER the self check?
Are you touching the throttle during the start sequence?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Is it turning over quickly then stopping completely? Lots of safety systems involved on the starter circuit like the clutch switch, kickstand switch etc. that can kill the signal to the starter solenoid, as well as a bad connection in the button. Put a test light on the solenoid and see if its getting the signal from the starter button when the problem happens.

Or, is it turning over slowly and struggling? It a new bike to you, so maybe you're not used to what it sounds like as "normal". MV's need 1000 rpm cranking to fire the ignition. Even a battery with 12.5VDC at rest can die quickly with a load. You want 9.6VDC+ while cranking. If not, get a good battery, stay away from Wal-mart.
It doesn't appear to me that it is struggling when it turns over, and you are correct it is a new bike to me that I am unfamiliar with. Based on what I've read here on the forums these bikes need a strong battery to start. I had the battery tested at my local auto parts store and was told it was good but I didn't ask for any more information. I have never been very good at electrical, so when my brother in law gets back in town I will have him test the battery again and check all the electrical circuits. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
@doobiej: You can get you manuals here: MV Agusta Team Double 3 Racing or you can send my your email address and I'll DropBox you the manuals.

Checking voltage at rest is not a good indication of battery condition. You need to have your battery Load Tested and any car or bike shop...or battery retailer for that matter...should be able to do that. I have the capability in my home garage.

MV Agusta, and other brands, have low-voltage cut-outs in their ECU programming in order to protect delicate electronics. If your battery is not keeping voltage up during the start sequence, then there will not be permission to start. IT is a key to subsequent troubleshooting.

Some questions:
Does the dash go through the self-check at "key on"?
Does the fuel pump prime for three seconds at "key on"?
Does the engine turn over when the start button is pressed AFTER the self check?
Are you touching the throttle during the start sequence?
I am going to get the battery tested under load when my brother in law gets back to town, I don't have a tester, he does. Dash goes through all the self checks. I've honestly never paid attention to if the fuel pump is priming. Sometimes the engine will turn over for a couple of seconds, then stop, and sometimes it won't do anything. no I don't touch the throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Gentlemen, these bikes have a Factory Installed charging pig tail for a reason. There is significant parasitic draw.

@Cooter!: 9.6VDC is a dead battery. 12.5 VDC is an undercharged battery. A new, fully charged, 6 cell motorcycle or car battery provides 2.2 VDC per cell...13.2 VDC at rest.

View attachment 486015
I could not find a factory installed charging pigtail. However the previous owner has installed a pigtail on the battery, which is what I currently have the battery tender hooked up too. What I don't understand is sometimes it will turn over for a couple of seconds and stop. And then other times it won't do anything. I am not sure if this indicates a battery issue or something else as I am new to the Augusta.
 

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Is your bike ABS or non-ABS? (Wiring diagrams and fuse are different.)
 

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I could not find a factory installed charging pigtail. However the previous owner has installed a pigtail on the battery, which is what I currently have the battery tender hooked up too. What I don't understand is sometimes it will turn over for a couple of seconds and stop. And then other times it won't do anything. I am not sure if this indicates a battery issue or something else as I am new to the Augusta.
Let's address the underlined statements.

First, the location of the charging pigtail: It is under the seat. It has a BLACK rubber cap over a two wire Superseal connector that has a BLUE wire and a RED wire leading to it. It is HARDWIRED into he harness and can only be removed by cutting it out, so it is likely there....
486017


486018


The fact that the PO added a pigtail tells me that there is now and SAE connection in parallel with the Factory Connection. That simply adds to the list of chargers you can use.

Now, let's chat about "a battery issue or something else":

There are common problems across the MV range that crop up in a "My Bike Failed to Start" thread. The first and by far most common is a battery that is not up top the task of starting the bike. The second issue, and directly related to a decrepit battery voltage, is high resistance connections that degrade during the high voltage start sequence. The most prevalent failure is at the Start Solenoid. When you Jump Start that bike, you bypass the Main Contacts in the Start Solenoid and you port power directly from the battery positive to the starter motor. That simply tells you the starter motor will work with power. Nothing else.

486020


486022


ON the Start Solenoid there are two fuses and a four pin connector. The fuse on the Battery Positive side is the ACTIVE FUSE and is by the terminal marked "B" and is number 8 in the photo. The OTHER fuse is an installed SPARE and has no function as it is not in any circuit. It is the one by the STARTER MOTOR lead marked "M" and it's there simply to be used in case the Main Fuse blows.

486021


Now the FOUR PIN connector ports all power to the bike. It is a known weak point as it develops high resistance over time and needs periodic attention to clean and tighten the connections. IF that connector is showing signs of over heating, it is robbing the Start Solenoid of the ability to fully draw in and start the bike. Disconnect, clean and reconnect that connector as a start. If that doesn't resolve the issue with a FULLY CHAREGED and chemically sound battery, then you will probably have to replace the START SOLENOID
 

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It doesn't appear to me that it is struggling when it turns over, and you are correct it is a new bike to me that I am unfamiliar with. Based on what I've read here on the forums these bikes need a strong battery to start. I had the battery tested at my local auto parts store and was told it was good but I didn't ask for any more information. I have never been very good at electrical, so when my brother in law gets back in town I will have him test the battery again and check all the electrical circuits. Thanks.
With the clue that the PO added a 'SAE" connector for a Battery Tender, I would check the battery terminals for tightness. Since the battery is hard to get too, take them completely off and clean the terminals before retightening them securely. It's free to do and could very well cause your issue. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Let's address the underlined statements.

First, the location of the charging pigtail: It is under the seat. It has a BLACK rubber cap over a two wire Superseal connector that has a BLUE wire and a RED wire leading to it. It is HARDWIRED into he harness and can only be removed by cutting it out, so it is likely there....
View attachment 486017

View attachment 486018

The fact that the PO added a pigtail tells me that there is now and SAE connection in parallel with the Factory Connection. That simply adds to the list of chargers you can use.

Now, let's chat about "a battery issue or something else":

There are common problems across the MV range that crop up in a "My Bike Failed to Start" thread. The first and by far most common is a battery that is not up top the task of starting the bike. The second issue, and directly related to a decrepit battery voltage, is high resistance connections that degrade during the high voltage start sequence. The most prevalent failure is at the Start Solenoid. When you Jump Start that bike, you bypass the Main Contacts in the Start Solenoid and you port power directly from the battery positive to the starter motor. That simply tells you the starter motor will work with power. Nothing else.

View attachment 486020

View attachment 486022

ON the Start Solenoid there are two fuses and a four pin connector. The fuse on the Battery Positive side is the ACTIVE FUSE and is by the terminal marked "B" and is number 8 in the photo. The OTHER fuse is an installed SPARE and has no function as it is not in any circuit. It is the one by the STARTER MOTOR lead marked "M" and it's there simply to be used in case the Main Fuse blows.

View attachment 486021

Now the FOUR PIN connector ports all power to the bike. It is a known weak point as it develops high resistance over time and needs periodic attention to clean and tighten the connections. IF that connector is showing signs of over heating, it is robbing the Start Solenoid of the ability to fully draw in and start the bike. Disconnect, clean and reconnect that connector as a start. If that doesn't resolve the issue with a FULLY CHAREGED and chemically sound battery, then you will probably have to replace the START SOLENOID
I am gonna have the battery tested at rest and under load, I'm most likely gonna buy a lithium Ion battery for the bike anyway. I am leaning toward the starter solenoid being bad, but I'm gonna have my brother in law do some testing as soon as he can to determine if that is the cause. very helpful. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
With the clue that the PO added a 'SAE" connector for a Battery Tender, I would check the battery terminals for tightness. Since the battery is hard to get too, take them completely off and clean the terminals before retightening them securely. It's free to do and could very well cause your issue. 👍
Yeah this was one of the first things I did. No change. Thanks
 
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