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Discussion Starter #1
Engine will not turn over on the starter with cold engine,starter motor will spin free.

Bump start ,switch off immediately and starter will now engage and turn over engine. Bike will start first time all day long .

Anyone had similar problem with starter clutch, I'm presuming the problem is there :cussing:
 

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Sorry Ian, haven't come across that problem with mine. :eek: Sounds like a James C to the rescue, job to me. :king: Thanks with your help and suggestions with my indicator problem BTW. :)
 

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Well, I was going to blame the Scottish weather going by what I see on Little Britain skits :stickpoke

When you try and start cold, does the starter motor turn over when coupled to motor? Does engine turn over at all (even slowly)?

If you meant the starter motor spins free when still coupled to the motor but the motor doesn't turn, I would tend to agree with you on the stater clutch thing.


Some other things I was thinking but on reflection probably not related to your problem:
If you bump it with the kill switch off (just get oil circulating and reduce friction), will it start then on the button?

What Voltage do you have when you crank it over. If the starter motor pulls too much power, the coils won't get enough voltage to charge (ie. no spark).

:blah:
 

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I have one of those too Pigiolino, the contacts fit permanently on the battery and a plug in connector connects to the unit. I have mine connected all the time the bike is not in use. :)
 

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Hi guys,

We have come across this problem before. This is not a battery problem.

Basically the starter clutch is worn (the starter clutch is oil dependant).

There are two solutions to this problem:

1) to replace the faulty part - which includes minimum of 6 hours labour + the parts ... budget for around £800 (GBP) - can only be done by an experienced MV mechanic

2) if you are using 10/50 or 10/60 oil (recommended by MV) switch to 10/40 which is a lighter oil and that will help solve the problem.

We also found when the weather is warm there is no problem when the oil becomes more viscous and the bike will start first time despite the fault.

Let us know your thoughts. Good luck.


Kind regards,
eMoto Tech. Dept.
 

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john said:
Thinking about it, most electric starters have pinions which move forward to engage, sounds like this is happening Ok when warm but not when cold. May be a strip just to check the operation might solve the problem, if not you could try bidding on this Ian:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MV-AGUSTA-F4-...058422490QQcategoryZ36796QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Unfortunately the worn component isn't part of the starter motor.

To stip down and check one must drop the engine for the rear. :cry:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Guys,

will try the oil and start heating the shed, and stay in denial until winter comes :bash:
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Out of denial.
Bike now separated and scattered round the shed.
Found out one doesn't drop the motor from an F4 ,the little pic of guy removing bushes from the frame plates in the manual is having a laugh. :rant:

Are mag plates different as the bushes on mine seem to be interference fit.
James ?

So prop up motor and start to remove F4 then find headlight has been hardwired ,snip, also the brake reservior mod mounted at front of ecu stops me from just removing four bolts and removing subframe. :nutkick:

Motor now separated the horrors appear ,lovely hooked 13t sprocket with play ,tab washer perfectly folded over finger tight nut, chain has eaten through front of casing flange for retaining ring :bash:
Will borrow camera tomorrow and post some pics.
 

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OH man!

I have some experience with a problem somewhat like this now. We dealt with it on my wife's monster after a motor swap a few months ago. All signs pointed to the sprag clutch (starter clutch). We troubleshot until we were blue in the face for days. Let me show some pics of hers









It turns out somehow her starter was spinning backwards (single power wire on monster starters). Something is wrong internally with it at 3000mi!

By interference do you mean #13?

 

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Discussion Starter #16
The following pics show damage caused by a combination of factors and neglect.
The loose 13t Talon front sprocket,no offset ,{which should be correct}an enormous 520 chain,higher swingarm pivot and worn out chain guide.

Assisting from the rear worn out cush drives allowing Talon carrier to rock and axle spacer to eat into carrier allowing eventual contact with hub and cheese grater effect.
Also note gouge in swingarm ,43t rear perhaps ?
 

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Looks a bit messy Ian, I always wonder about aftermarket sprockets and their design and hardness, I have always up to now used original MV sprockets, your pictures are telling me maybe that's the best (but expensive) way............ I take it this is the "ex" endurance bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes,
but I think it was the ownership after the racing it had to endure and the reframe by Casoli.
MV sprockets don't look too expensive compared with this.

Unfortunately I threw what was left of the cush rubbers in the bin last year, they were the cause of the hub damage. How much that contributed to the mess at the front is what I would like to know.
I used to laugh about your seat but after seeing the mess they made of this bike how did they get away with it for so long?

The front sprocket was finger tight ,it had to be obvious to whoever put it together that there were clearance issues .

Last time I get involved with pet rescue!
 

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Hey Ian, been a while huh? Hope things have been going well.

Wow, lots of work ahead... Hopefully none of the damage is enough to keep it from going back on the road. I think most of that is fixable without replacing the large expensive parts?

That sprag gear thing is interesting... Does the MV use one? Again, like James, all I know about is the Ducati (because I'm in the middle of rebuilding mine still, blew it up at the track...). Seems like that part that locks it is lubed by oil coming out of the crank on the Ducati, so turning the motor over by hand a few times to get oil to it might help? Maybe that's why it works for you after the "bump".
 
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