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Discussion Starter #1
In neutral, clutch in, kick stand up or down, battery is good (verified), fuel pump is primed but starter does not get energized. It starts when I jump the connectors on the starter relay. Assuming that troubleshooting was done, replaced the suspect relay but did not resolve the issue. In neutral, neither the clutch nor the stand switches should matter. If the neutral switch was bad, pulling the clutch would bypass the neutral switch, Same true for the stand. My conclusion is the starter relay is not getting the "signal" to close the circuit to get the starter to spin. When I jump the connectors, starts instantly.
Any technical advice on what to check next. "Take it to your dealer" recommendation is NOT considered a technical advice. :wink2:
 

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You say "Battery is good"...please define.

When is the last time you disassembled the starter solenoid wiring and cleaned the contacts?
Are your grounds good and clean?

How are the contacts inside your Start Pushbutton?

FWIW, I have a 312R and, if things are up to snuff, I get the same response. Making the bike electrically sound cures the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
"Good" as in "good" with regards to battery. As I said, it starts when the contacts on the relay are jumped. Contacts and wires are checked/cleaned when replacing the relay with a new one. Starting with the jump on the contacts on the relay also indicates that all the wiring from battery to the starter is good.
I did not suspect the start button but it should be okay too. I hear a click as I push the start button. Starter relay is not energized to close the contacts to complete the circuit.
Thanks for the reply.
 

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Ok, so there is nothing wrong and your bike is fine.:banghead:
 

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Thank you. I am glad I've asked. I have one more question; did you wake up as a douche bag this morning or you always are?
@Ruhi: you asked for help and I give you what you need to do. You tell me all of that is fine with no qualification other than "gee it works when I do this".

It does not work as designed and I quickly and thoroughly tell you what to check.

You tell me that is not the problem. Well, if that circuit works as designed, then the bike must start and you have no problem.

Perhaps you should develop better diagnostic skills then. I have told you that I have the same bike that has had the same issue. I have told you what cures the issue. Unless your 312R is different from mine, then I'd suggest you take my advice and revisit your circuit from the start pushbutton to the starter motor. There is a great diagnostic diagram in the service manual that leads you down the correct path.

Sincerely,
Le Douche
 

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I would check the starter button as mentioned. Had the same issue with my bike and had to replace the switch assembly.
They are not very expensive.
Try to be a bit more polite to people trying to help you.:wink2:
 

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Starter Solenoid failed use one from a Yamaha R6 /R1 they are rated with a 30amp fuse the F4 has 40amp fuse just swap fuses over . The relay is internally capable of 70 amps so will do no problem.

As you say bridging the terminals proves starter circuit after solenoid ok.

The click from the solenoid proves the signal is getting to the solenoid (Can you actually feel the click at the solenoid?)

The no action from solenoid indicates failure of the solenoid.

Just my two penneth. Check out link below.

http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/20-maintenance-tech-issues-all-4-cyl-models/215073-buy-cheap-buy-twice-old-chestnut.html?highlight=solenoid
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had a long reply but since the system logged me out and forced me to reload the page, I lost my text.

In short;
Pushing the starter button activates the relay (solenoid) with the "clicking" sound, I expect the button to be doing what it was supposed to do.
Since, jumping the "B" and "M" posts completes the starter circuit, I expect the grounds and hot connections being complete.

That's all.

And, yes, I agree; there is no need for "head banging" to carry out a civil and polite conversation.
 

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It Is the relay , as bridging the B and M terminals takes the relay out of the loop . If you buy a new relay and fit it it is important that the B and M connections are connected the same way around . Some of the Yamaha relays do not have B and M on the body of the solenoid.

The alternator uses a diode on the starter solenoid you can see it bridging the " switch" section of the solenoid take a pic before dismantling to be 100%.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, "B" post (fuse side) has the jumper to connect to the two red wires as in the diagram below. The other two has the diode bridging.
 

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It's not always the start solenoid

F4 312R Start Troubleshoot.jpg

What I am telling you is, even though it may be the start solenoid, that is not always the case...nor was it the case for my bike.
Notice that in the diagnostic troubleshooting chart, cordially circled above, cabling issues and poor connection is in the same block as the solenoid.

For my particular case, a clean up was all that was needed. Even so, I have two new start solenoids sitting in my spares now.
 

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Guys,

It's possible that if the BATTERY isn't in good condition and does not have a resting voltage of 12.5V + to have a situation where the voltage pull for the injectors and fuel pump and ignition coils prevents the ECU from operating correctly.

The ECU provides voltage to the start button via OB wire. It senses this and then grounds the starter solenoid switch via OY wire.

So then the starter won't operate properly or if it does the voltage has dropped too much for the starter motor to spin and we get click.

and then yes the solenoid could be kaput and a quick check would be to swap it over for another

The point I'm making is that the battery has to be tested for voltage and voltage drop when attempting cranking.

The jumping the contacts of the solenoid is not the definitive test here.

Joe
 

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just went through this issue with my 2013 1090 RR Brutale,
the battery would not supply enough cranking voltage.
Though jumping the two bolts at the solenoid would spin the starter

a new battery was finally fitted after swapping in a new solenoid and the thicker starter wire kit.
Now it starts up in a second
 

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If you're close to the city, I have an oem 312R battery sitting on a tender in my living room that you're welcome to borrow for testing. I also have a Shorai LFX18A1-BS12 in my 312R that I'll be swapping with the oem in the coming weeks if you wanted to try that instead. The latter will be a little complicated as the bike is not near me atm.
 

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I vote for the battery. It is usually the most simple fix that resolves the problem. Try a different battery prior to doing all the complex troubleshooting. Did someone already recommend this? :)
 

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Um, sort of...in post three the OP says the battery is good because the battery is good. (Personally I think the battery needs a good charging and his connections need a good cleaning, but I'm a douchebag, so what do I know?)
 

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Um, sort of...in post three the OP says the battery is good because the battery is good. (Personally I think the battery needs a good charging and his connections need a good cleaning, but I'm a douchebag, so what do I know?)
You were helping and giving best advice Chuck based on experience and knowledge,

It wouldn't hurt if the guy apologised to you for that..

Joe
 
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