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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. I am new to MV and have an 06 F4 with 8700mls on it. The bike runs well then sputters and stalls periodically while intermitently runs great for 10 or so miles then back to the sputtering. This condition has been going on for about a week of the 3 I have owned it and I have replaced the fuel pump and used the Omega fittings with 5/16 line in place of the rotted plastics as well as air filter with some positive results but not much.

When the sputter comes on its almost like the timing advances as I get pinging off the line but the higher the revs go the smoother the engine runs. Fuel delivery seems fine and the bike 9 of 10 times starts right away.

Only thing i can tell is it has been modified with the Arrow tail section and if it came with a Cat its gone now but have not found evidence of any other Mod accept for an HID that does not seem to work as I have lights with it unplugged

Battery holds a charge and has not been an issue BUT the throttle cables were adjusted for NO Choke which seemed odd to me and according to the manual says there could be a throttle synch issue at the injectors.

Calling the dealer tomorrow for input on what they want to do with it but I am very curious if anyone here has seen this kind of issue. Thanks
 

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Did you check the ebs relay? Which EPROM is in there? Searching on here for both might yield a solution for you. Good luck and welcome.
 

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Welcome to the forum Gil

In all honesty, there's a couple of things in your statement which can lead to a couple of different fault to look for.
I assume it's an F4 1000S ?

When you replace the fuel fittings and filter, did you find much dirt or gunk in your tank ? Did you inspect the fuel pump and pre-filter ? What did the bike run like before the service work ?

The choke lever is not a choke, it just slitghly starts turning the throttle, opening the butterflies on the injectors.

When you mention spluttering, is that on all cylinders or just on one, if it's just on one, then the problem might be the EBS relay.

If the problem is on more than on or all cylinders, it might be the injectors.

There'll be more advise coming along shortly, in the meantime download the Workshop manuals and have a bit of a read.
 

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Welcome! I also have an 06 F4 1000s and had same issue as well as over heating. I changed my setup from Arrows to FBF/BMC filter/new plugs/water pump upgrade and fans/and microtec ecu + dyno tuned. Problem solved and she runs like a beast.

Check your ecu.
 

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sputtering F4?

Gil;
1st, Welcome aboard the Forum.....


air leak.....screws up at idle/low revs, runs fine up top

check the Chinese vacuum caps on the test ports on both sides of the bike.....they don't last long:jerkoff:

do you still have the charcoal cannister in the tank?......

there is another 10 possible vacuum leaks

go to Peerless Auto Parts on Artesia Blvd at Yukon......John has the 3/16" Dorman caps, 5 in a pack...... if you still have the cannister, get a 1/4" wye too

then give me a call
 

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I would suggest to use the iridium spark plugs!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great advice! It is a 1000 1+1 with the flat black with the canister in tank and before this all happened it ran with no sputtering BUT it bogged down at midrange. I just popped the old filter off the flange and found white flour like substances (no taste so sugar is out of the question) on the screen and something similar to lint...

I failed to check the filter screen on the new pump and have not replaced the plugs yet so tomorrow i pull it apart and do those two items and stare at the canister until i feel brave enough to delete it.

The test caps are not there but the prior owner used vaccum lines side to side "I think" in their place so i will be checking what it is hooked into.

When it sputters it seems like it is firing on all 4 as it does the bubububuh vaccum line idle and has a horrid time not stalling out. Bike will stall on hard braking when the condition arises making me wonder if i missed one of those "sticker needs to remain for returns" stickers.

Bike has the metal fans already and seems to control its temp just fine with highway average of 168 and an average of 198 city. The Eprom is something I have not looked into yet nor the EBS relay but i will check as i found a few items in hot spots already. I shall use the manual link to tear down (i hate taking off front fairings).. and check all the items posted

Much appreciated! I know the peerless BTW and thank you for the contact Noel
 

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Discussion Starter #8
well.. i went thru and found a fuel line kink so i straightened it out and ran the bike for 30min sans fairings without a sputter but as soon as i reinstalled the front, side and belly panels the bike started sputtering in its usual manner. I swear to you i am so tired of used bike sales.. This bike was a trade for an 05 999 that I owned for 4 months and prior to that the 999 was a trade for an 07 R1. The 999 had a fuel pump go out and a month later when i was inquiring about a Ducati Monster for the wife some how the 999 PC fried in the stealership parkinglot

A brief on the R1.. it was a 2007 and it turns out 07/08 R1 had an engine change that put the stator system on the flywheel thru a shaft to the left side engine cover..the funny thing about that is it requires two index pins in order to keep the cover from vibrating loose.. lucky me? I bought the manager special that was missing one pin and it vibrated the cover loose so oil spit on my left shoe, wiped out the flywheel bearing, stator, rotor,stator bearing and clutch.. in short? the R1 if i was on a real ride and not just a short clip to work and home would have seized the motor and ripped my left leg off as the stator/rotor cover bolts were 1/4" backed out by the time i got home, so to C.Y.A. the stealership let me have bike choice and for some GAWD awful reason I picked a 999 with under 7K mls.

Long story short on this scenaro; never pick a used Duc with under 12K mls as it is a nightmare for you and if you EVER see MANAGER SPECIAL on a used bike steer CLEAR NO MATTER WHAT

The reason I am on a Goose is because i rolled the 999 into a stealership looking for a replacement for my wife's FZ6 and for some reason the PC fried in the stealerships parkinglot after a problem free ride a full tank . I know why but cannot prove anything as my left grip was well past its normal state as if it was removed so in my observations the pro Duc people could short out my bike. The grip was over 3/4 of an inch pulled off the bars and the turn signal controls were way out of normal seating position.. No messing mo f'in way it happened on my 30mile ride to discuss the Bike replacement as i am one anal rider...

the reason i alowed all hell to conspire was due to a passive conversation about the F4 3 days prior with a 949 owner and the random chance I actually saw an F4 on line for sale at the same stealership the wife saw what she would like to have.. thus the journey .. the most troubling part is those bastards probably thought they got away with the scam but the fact is i was over the 999. Fun, sure! but it is a money pit

I am so agitated right now over this F4 as i know it has potential "if" it had been taken care of...yet i know it has not and since it has not even been a solid month of ownership I can only feel pity for the beast

Sure.. I know its taboo to buy used but most everyone these days are just looking for a decent way to get around and a chance to get ahead...........................I am so frustrated

ANd DOn't Get Me started on the Mom and Pop shops! my 95 GpZ 1100 was a great way for those kind to make solid cash! the older the bike the easier it is to get away with not fixing them

the Fz6 on the other hand.. sure its saaaalow but the damn thing gets 62mpg highway and has never been out of service PLUS yamaha gives a great maint. package

Steer clear of everything else unless its for a hobby which i hope to some day be able to afford, until then Cheers to your kind and much respect!

Oh... Pro Italia? They do not return phone calls and know they are the only place in the So Bay. which really cheapens the experience

(called em twice prior to this fiasco to bring the bike in for warranty repairs and got no reply)

Not a hater just an observer
 

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cannisterendectomy?

Gil;
if you take the tank off, empty it and bring it over Saturday AM and i'll help you cannisterendectomy it
:naughty:
 

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I bought my '07 F4R with 7,700 miles on it off Ebay, flew into Las Vegas, handed over the check and rode 1,500 miles home to PNW, troublefree. Had no trouble since, either. You take your chances with used bikes but my experiences have all been good ones. Sorry for your problems, but there are some great guys on this forum that will help you get through the process. You'll have a fantastic machine once the bugs get sorted. Don't give up hope yet!

Eric
 

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I would suggest to use the iridium spark plugs!
Balz suggested the iridium plugs also. It's been my understanding that iridium plugs last longer but I haven't heard of any real performance advantage till I got into MV's.
Does it really make a difference?
I'm also thinking of the charcoal canister ectomy so that I can possibly increase my range. I get about 100 miles before the light comes on and i don't want to find out how far it'll go on the light. :eek:nthecan:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks

I gave up for a few days and just rode it.. those of you with experience know what happened .. bike was running perfectly smooth and i burned through 3 tanks of fuel with no sputter UNTIL today. it started again and is so bad it won't clear up.

I read the support comments you all were cool enough to post and have to tell you i am willing to go at it again. when I looked at the link posted on materials for the hose repair I noticed the fuel rail ends being used on the new hose it got me scratching my head.. could it be i get a vapor lock at the rail as the hose directly clamped, is not over the lip AND it is 5/16..(a tad large)

i will be installling the rail ends tomorrow and see.

i absolutely love the way these bikes ride and sound and hate to be the dark cloud so its time to either fix it or go get it fixed. this sputter crap is just embarrasing

I puled a WOT run in LB yesterday from 1-3 and ..whew.. above 8000 in 3rd is when this thing wants to go but i ran out of road and the wind pulled my cheesy test drive helmet half off my face... i be in touch all. thanks for the good words
 

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Discussion Starter #16
was surfing the parts catalog diagrams trying to get a look at what that EBS thing looks like and noticed i have a non canister fuel pump (did not bother checking if it matters) now and it is set up for canister BUT the vent/drain hose is looped into the vaccum instead of just hanging open. fuel cap is the aftermarket one so i have to wonder if there is an issue pressure wise here as well. my GPZ 1100 had a petcock issue that was fun but nowhere near this much...
 

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was surfing the parts catalog diagrams trying to get a look at what that EBS thing looks like and noticed i have a non canister fuel pump (did not bother checking if it matters) now and it is set up for canister BUT the vent/drain hose is looped into the vaccum instead of just hanging open. fuel cap is the aftermarket one so i have to wonder if there is an issue pressure wise here as well. my GPZ 1100 had a petcock issue that was fun but nowhere near this much...
Right, you need to go into the Maint section, read throught this - http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39000 - and then down to post #51 on here - http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39000&page=6
 

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Balz suggested the iridium plugs also. It's been my understanding that iridium plugs last longer but I haven't heard of any real performance advantage till I got into MV's.
Does it really make a difference?
I'm also thinking of the charcoal canister ectomy so that I can possibly increase my range. I get about 100 miles before the light comes on and i don't want to find out how far it'll go on the light. :eek:nthecan:
Well... with my 2006 F4 1000 it did and smoothend the torque curve.
It also solved the stalling and sputtering on low revs. My current 1078 also has the sputtering between 3000 and 4000 revs. Will update when de plugs are installed.
 

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I was getting a bit sick of my Brutale 750S from 2004 because of the stuttering or sissing. It even made puffs of smoke through the TPS.

But..... luckely yesterday I solved the mentioned problem.

The last thing i wanted to try was putting a new NGK iridium plug inside the 4th cylinder.
I couldnt believe the plug could be broken because I just changed them 2 years ago and maybe made about 1000km since then.
But.... the issue was really a €10 plug!! Changed it yesterday and made a test ride of an hour. Never gone so good as then. See the attached photo of the old and new Iridium plug. Bet it was so much coaled that it wouldnt make a spark anymore.

With Adam's (Merc07) 16M MIAW free software I made a fuel mapping myself and I rides like heaven. No more dips around 4000rpm and going straight to the red line. Also set the TPS wilth his software. Set the CO% at 4% and synchrozied the throttle body.
Excellent job Adam for your great MIAW software!

History of my bike:
Ive got the bike since 2009

Every issue I had I could manage to solve by replacing the next things:

- complete new fuse box of latest model

- new fuel pump

- new fuel lines inside the tank (this is a common thing that will break because of the fuel with ethanol)

- new quick fuel fittings for underneeth the tank. Buy the metal CNC ones not the cheap metal ones you can buy on Ebay. I had these and they will get stucked inside and wont let pass through the fuel!!

- iridium plugs (1 has broken so replaced it yesterday). Was the 4th cylinder. I could tell by the loss in vacuum testing the bike with my Carbtune synchronizer.

- bought an original cat, opened it and got out the catalytic and closed it welding it

- bmc air filter

- tried a new air intake sensor but wasnt the problem

- tried the different eprom mapping i have from stock, mv corse, rg3 and the modified fuel mapping i made with the miaw 3.0. Wasnt the problem of the stuttering.
 

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