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Discussion Starter #1
So after swapping out a radiator I started up the bike and it ran as it should've.

After one day of sitting my Speedometer doesn't read, the tachometer doesn't read engine RPM (though it does do the sweep on startup, which I assume means it's not getting signal from the CPU?) and the starter button, instead of triggering the MFD, simply drops the voltage across the instrument panel circuit like it's trying to crank the engine while running.

Is there a relay somewhere that controls all this or something? I also recently had to replace a plug to my block temp sensor as one of the connections in the plug went flakey and wasn't sending signal to the fan relay. Any idea if it could've been there?

Workshop manual mentioned checking the speed sensor, but I only see it mentioned there with a code that's nowhere to be found in the engine manual. Workshop manual also seems to mention cables that are nowhere to be found on the instrument panel plug or the CPU, as it's saying to test continuity between pin 16 on the instrument plug and 20 (which is not connected to that at all) on the CPU. Looking at the wiring diagram shows me pin 16 to run into pin 24 on the CPU.

I recently swapped batteries as well. Is it possible that could've blown something? Also, is there a sensor that runs straight into the speedometer somewhere or does the bike simply use the RPM and gear to calculate speed like a car?
 

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It is possible to blow the diodes if you reverse connect the battery.

The speedo sensor is a Hall effect pickup I think. It reads the revolutions of the drive sprocket via a phonic wheel .

It is possible to inadvertently swap the side stand and speed sensor connectors as they're the same.

Good luck
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The battery was never reverse connected. I noticed the sideways battery and made sure the negative terminal was in the right spot.

The diodes are the little 3-prong plug with a cap-looking connector on it next to the battery, correct?

Bike runs perfectly fine aside from non-working instrument display features (though temp works strangely enough)

Speed sensor connector is not swapped to sidestand after checking those plugs. All connections are correct according to what I could find in the workshop manual. The connection is broken somewhere, but looking at the wiring diagram and everything I can't for the life of me figure out where the hell the readout on the instrument cluster is coming from.

As for the starter button issue, any idea what could be causing that? There has to be a relay somewhere or something that opens when the bike is running so you can cycle through the functions on the cluster.
 

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Welcome to the forum.
Before you do any more digging, make sure the battery is properly charged mate.
Sounds like you've got a bad connection on a (-) wire somewhere, usualy a blue wire in your wiring loom, I suspect either the big multi pin plug at front of bike, or behind the dash itself.

Yes that plug next to the battery holds the diodes, but if the bike starts and runs then I doubt there's anything wrong there.

The ECU does not control the dash functions once the bike is running, I'll have a look at the drawings again but I'm sure your problem is just something small like a bad connection. Swap the Power and Latch relays which are located under your seat to see if that does anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Welcome to the forum.
Before you do any more digging, make sure the battery is properly charged mate.
Sounds like you've got a bad connection on a (-) wire somewhere, usualy a blue wire in your wiring loom, I suspect either the big multi pin plug at front of bike, or behind the dash itself.

Yes that plug next to the battery holds the diodes, but if the bike starts and runs then I doubt there's anything wrong there.

The ECU does not control the dash functions once the bike is running, I'll have a look at the drawings again but I'm sure your problem is just something small like a bad connection. Swap the Power and Latch relays which are located under your seat to see if that does anything.
Thanks for the welcome!

Battery is properly charged and has been on a trickle charger for as long as the bike has been sitting. Still pushes out 12v.

I'll definitely check the negative connection there. Swapping the latch and power relays didn't change anything. Both relays click when the ignition is turned on and work as intended.

By big multi-pin plug would you mean one of the two plugs that sit next to the dash underneath the instrument plates next to the instrument cluster, or am I missing another plug somewhere that I can test?

Many thanks for the help!
 

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The battery should be putting out 13.2vdc at rest and the system should maintain 14.5vdc (ish) when running.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All wires tested at the instrument plug and big 12-pin plug at the front of the bike. All showing good continuity and giving correct current. The only thing I could think of at this point would be the dash, no?

The question is, would this also fix the non-working engine start button issue? I cannot cycle through functions on the MFD with the engine start button like normal, and instead the bike just tries to crank while running. The starter doesn't turn, but voltage drops as the lights on the dash dim when pressed.

Any other ideas for what it could be before I subtract a few hundred dollars from my checking account?
 

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All wires tested at the instrument plug and big 12-pin plug at the front of the bike. All showing good continuity and giving correct current. The only thing I could think of at this point would be the dash, no?

The question is, would this also fix the non-working engine start button issue? I cannot cycle through functions on the MFD with the engine start button like normal, and instead the bike just tries to crank while running. The starter doesn't turn, but voltage drops as the lights on the dash dim when pressed.

Any other ideas for what it could be before I subtract a few hundred dollars from my checking account?
Ok, now things are taking a dirrection, this is taking a different coarse and it's a 1st for me, take 5 and let me go through the system carefully for a moment please, before you spend money.
So the bike starts fine, nothing wrong with the "start" button or circuit thus far.
BUT, now the start button should be de-activated and be able to respond to the signals or operations of the dash functions only, if it's trying to do anything else then somewhere a relay or function is still active or stuck.
 

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I'm new to all this, but I have a car that uses CAN-Bus, and have had similar symptom when the transmission control switch can wire was frayed. Based on your first post and Donsy's last post, can I suggest you try testing the integrity of the CAN High and Low and the K-Line wires.

Edit, just read that the connector is not a standard OBD connector.

If the wires need repairing, see here:
https://sites.google.com/site/diagnosticated/can-bus-wire-repairs
 

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OK, test time, I think you're getting a feedback from possibly a blown diode.
On certain 1000S models, you'll find a black plug on the right side of the battery case, it looks like a blank plug. You need to test those diodes please.
 

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I'm new to all this, but I have a car that uses CAN-Bus, and have had similar symptom when the transmission control switch can wire was frayed. Based on your first post and Donsy's last post, can I suggest you try testing the integrity of the CAN High and Low and the K-Line wires.

Edit, just read that the connector is not a standard OBD connector.

If the wires need repairing, see here:
https://sites.google.com/site/diagnosticated/can-bus-wire-repairs
Not CAN bus Paul, which drawing where you looking at ?
Could you add your model bike to your signature please ?
 

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Just to eliminate, Has the little switch assembly for start and run been swapped recently.
I've been down this path before and the switches for the S although look the same externally are actually connected differently to the 1000R

It's worth testing the switch assembly even if it hasn't been changed for correct function.

And if you still have a problem then check the diodes and grounds as Donsy said
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #17
UPDATE:
We've managed to get a new electrical issue after doing pretty much nothing. It seems like disconnecting the latch relay now forces the radiator fans on.

Any ideas where this could be?
 

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UPDATE:
We've managed to get a new electrical issue after doing pretty much nothing. It seems like disconnecting the latch relay now forces the radiator fans on.

Any ideas where this could be?
You previously mentioned that you swapped the Power and Latch relays, swap them back?:)

No pic reference Donsy (just a guess that it was a can-bus communication issue), I'm surprised though it's not Can-bus, does that mean the cluster is analogue?
Paul the manuals are free and have all the drawings and pictures in them.:)
 
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