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My 2005 F4 keeps dropping a cylinder while riding (randomly). My first instinct was to swap out the plugs. I’ve never worked on my bike, as it’s completely new to me this year. As I began removing everything, it became apparent to me how different these bikes are from their Japanese counterparts.
#1). Integrated seat and a rear cowl that hinges up (doesn’t come off). Interesting. Held on by two plastic pins with rubber caps?!? Really interesting!
#2). Fuel tank has one bolt and fits neatly to really sweet air box (all plastic and perfect aesthetic match to metal gas tank). I really like the use of the two supports on either side of the tank against the frame.
#3). Quick disconnect fuel lines?!?! Yes please!
#4). Fairings come off SO easily! This includes the front fairing, which incorporates a really sweet electronic connection to the control panel through the rear view mirror brackets. Not sure how reliably that connection holds up, but it was refreshing to see someone be creative!
#5). Spark plugs were pretty standard and readily available. Surprise! However as I grab my 5/8 spark plug socket and start trying to remove the old plugs, what the flip?!? Who thought those gaskets 1” down was a good idea?!? This is where I just shook my head. I tried WD40 on the socket, but still tight. I knew I’d lose my socket down the hole, so what did I do? Looked it up on this site! Thank you all for your wisdom! I simply trimmed the gaskets back and proceeded.
#6). I noticed upon reassembly that coolant level seemed low, so I added some engine ice. Upon start-up it pretty much peed it all back out . . . so I guess she runs at a low level?!? Weird, but ok.

Went back together without a hitch. Assembly was very quick (still can’t believe how easy those fairings are to remove!). As for my original problem, it hasn’t surfaced in the 50 miles since the change-out, but I’d be surprised if it fixed the problem. Time will tell!
 

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Pull those rubber caps and the pins slide out and the tail is off with the disconnection of one electrical connection.

There are many threads on keeping the coolant level at the low mark when cold. (I hope there was Engine Ice in there before you topped it up with Engine Ice....)

The mirror stalk connections can be finicky. Follow what the manual says and you will have fewer issues. i.e.: Loosen, but do not remove the two nuts holding the mirrors in place. Also when reinstalling, turn on the turn signal for the side you are tightening. The signal will come on and blink up until you have gone too far.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Pull those rubber caps and the pins slide out and the tail is off with the disconnection of one electrical connection.

There are many threads on keeping the coolant level at the low mark when cold. (I hope there was Engine Ice in there before you topped it up with Engine Ice....)

The mirror stalk connections can be finicky. Follow what the manual says and you will have fewer issues. i.e.: Loosen, but do not remove the two nuts holding the mirrors in place. Also when reinstalling, turn on the turn signal for the side you are tightening. The signal will come on and blink up until you have gone too far.
Yes, Engine Ice was in there before I added any . . . good stuff. The rubber caps on the plastic pins are just incredibly unique. I love how simple that whole assembly is to remove. And as for the mirrors, I didn’t remove them at all. I took the whole front fairing off as a complete unit. Went back on and everything works. I’m kind of wondering now if I shouldn’t put some dielectric grease at that electrical joint? Maybe just to ensure no water intrusion?

This forum was invaluable to me as I started to dig in, so thank you! I did see that they run low, but it was only after she peed all over my garage floor that I looked that one up ?‍♂.

Looking forward to more adventures in the near future.
 

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?

Immediately loosen the swing arm pinch bolts and retorque them to 15lbft/20Nm
Then remove the sticker that says 28-32Nm>:)

This is what tight pinch bolts do.....
 

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Immediately loosen the swing arm pinch bolts and retorque them to 15lbft/20Nm
Then remove the sticker that says 28-32Nm>:)

This is what tight pinch bolts do.....
woooo lawd. thankful for that tip from esq at the track. have no idea what mine were previously, but the sticker was already gone, so i would have searched the factory rec and tightned to 30 after fixing my chain.

also didnt come with mirrors so im looking for simple bar end types. anyone happy with what they are running on their F4?
 

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. . .
#6). I noticed upon reassembly that coolant level seemed low, so I added some engine ice. Upon start-up it pretty much peed it all back out . . .
You're not on your own.

I am one of perhaps many who as a naive new F4 owner topped the coolant to the max mark only to later find the same as yourself!:smile2:
 

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My 2005 F4 keeps dropping a cylinder while riding (randomly). My first instinct was to swap out the plugs. I’ve never worked on my bike, as it’s completely new to me this year. As I began removing everything, it became apparent to me how different these bikes are from their Japanese counterparts.
#1). Integrated seat and a rear cowl that hinges up (doesn’t come off). Interesting. Held on by two plastic pins with rubber caps?!? Really interesting!
#2). Fuel tank has one bolt and fits neatly to really sweet air box (all plastic and perfect aesthetic match to metal gas tank). I really like the use of the two supports on either side of the tank against the frame.
#3). Quick disconnect fuel lines?!?! Yes please!
#4). Fairings come off SO easily! This includes the front fairing, which incorporates a really sweet electronic connection to the control panel through the rear view mirror brackets. Not sure how reliably that connection holds up, but it was refreshing to see someone be creative!
#5). Spark plugs were pretty standard and readily available. Surprise! However as I grab my 5/8 spark plug socket and start trying to remove the old plugs, what the flip?!? Who thought those gaskets 1” down was a good idea?!? This is where I just shook my head. I tried WD40 on the socket, but still tight. I knew I’d lose my socket down the hole, so what did I do? Looked it up on this site! Thank you all for your wisdom! I simply trimmed the gaskets back and proceeded.
#6). I noticed upon reassembly that coolant level seemed low, so I added some engine ice. Upon start-up it pretty much peed it all back out . . . so I guess she runs at a low level?!? Weird, but ok.

Went back together without a hitch. Assembly was very quick (still can’t believe how easy those fairings are to remove!). As for my original problem, it hasn’t surfaced in the 50 miles since the change-out, but I’d be surprised if it fixed the problem. Time will tell!

Do yourself a favour and buy some steel seat hinge pins from TPO.They are inexpensive and do not break.
Also if you happen to drop one of those pins it falls straight into the nooks on the motor and are very hard to find.Don't ask me how I know.:frown2:
 

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You're not on your own.

I am one of perhaps many who as a naive new F4 owner topped the coolant to the max mark only to later find the same as yourself!:smile2:
Add me to the list.
 

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also didnt come with mirrors so im looking for simple bar end types. anyone happy with what they are running on their F4?
Here are CRG Arrow and the round Lane Splitter mirrors
The bar ends are from Motovation in Texas:grin2:
 

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Do yourself a favour and buy some steel seat hinge pins from TPO.They are inexpensive and do not break.
Also if you happen to drop one of those pins it falls straight into the nooks on the motor and are very hard to find.Don't ask me how I know.:frown2:
Hey Mitchy, Re the steel seat hinge pins. I have spare OEM plastic jobs. What is TPO?
 

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Thanks for the link. Doe snot seem to have the seat hinge pins. Have been thinking about getting a mini lathe. Maybe I can make some if I do. Seems like an expensive pin though if I need to buy a lathe to do it!
 

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35USD shipping on a 13.95USD part :bash: . I'm out.

Basically 75 Australian dollars for 2 x 50cent parts.

Buying stuff from the US is BS. The most expensive shipping in the world.
 

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35USD shipping on a 13.95USD part :bash: . I'm out.

Basically 75 Australian dollars for 2 x 50cent parts.

Buying stuff from the US is BS. The most expensive shipping in the world.
I get what you are saying Glenno,unless you buy a few items to make shipping worthwhile it is expensive.US postage costs have risen and our dollar is shit.
Try your local Repco store and see if they can supply you with 5mm clevis pins,they will work.I just received a box of bearings from Noel's mate Charlie from the USA and postage was $65.00USD,used to be $35.00USD for a flat rate carton by USPS.

shopping.png
 
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