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Discussion Starter #1
So I posted a week ago that my b3 tried to overheat and that all the coolant was gone. I was wrong and there was a touch of coolant still in the reservoir. So I filled it back up with a 50/50 of silkolene pro cool (what my dealer uses) last night. Rode the bike to school this morning, which is about a 10 mile journey, and when I got to school the bike completely overheated, I'm talking max bars and toasty legs. Come to my surprise all the coolant that I had just put in the bike was completely gone. So I rode home today, no traffic, and the bike got up to 7/8 bars. But what really surprised me is that at no point in this overheating debacle did the fan turn on. When I got home I shot the head with an IR Thermometer and it read out at a max of 230 F (110 C for all you people that arent in the US). I was pretty confused since my sv650 routinely got up to 225 before the fan kicked in (yes its a different bike but still) and I had clocked the head before at 203 F when the bike was at 3 bars and had cooled down for a couple minutes.

So I'm trying to decide what the timeline was:

Fan broke, bike got hot, coolant boiled off, replaced coolant, repeat

Bike got hot, air in the coolant system blocking the temp sensor, fan doesnt think it needs to turn on

Temp gauge on dash is broken and the bike isnt actually overheating.

I bought the bike new 1 month ago so I'm going to call the dealer tomorrow and tell them they need to sort it out but I would like to have some sort of idea myself.
 

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I had the same exact issue with my F3. Turned out it was a faulty t-stat.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I should note that the coolant doesnt seem to be going anywhere....No stains on the bike/ground/me. This frightened me into thinking leaking/blown head gasket but upon inspection of the oil theres a distinct lack of coolant oil looking ooze.
 

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It was covered under warranty. After the coolant cooled off, the next time there wasn't enough in there to expand and leak out and just started to boil away, you just can't hear it boiling while the bike is running. The fan should come on when you hit 4 bars.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I just went and did a proper bleed of the coolant system and so far all is well, the fans are coming on when theyre supposed to and the bike isnt overheating anymore.
 

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On a B3 it's 4 bars to the halfway mark on your dash gauge. On my bikes experience it will go 1 over half way when bike is stuck in traffic and not moving or just dribbling along slowly. At this point or earlier fans always engage to stop overheating. If your gauge goes over this much when stopped it seems likely there is a problem. You should feel a flow of hot air on your left thigh when the fans come on too. It's very easy to check just run your bike and get off and watch fans and gauge. If your gauge goes over the half way mark when you are going fast enough for good air flow (not slowly in traffic ) then that surely indicates something is very wrong.
That's what a 2 year warranty is for.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bike got to the max of 8 bars yesterday morning. Took it home and popped the plastics off. Much to my surprise the radiator was basically empty. I filled the radiator back up and ran the bike. I swear it looked like the damn thing was filled with soda there was so much air bubbling to the top. Retopped the radiator and then filled the reservoir. Been riding all day today and it hasnt gotten over the 4 bar mark.
 

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My B800 has been running hot lately, and I noticed there is no coolant in the overflow.

I now need to add coolant, and I don't have my manual handy.

Do I need to use the exact same coolant?
 

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My B800 has been running hot lately, and I noticed there is no coolant in the overflow.

I now need to add coolant, and I don't have my manual handy.

Do I need to use the exact same coolant?
have a good read through threads on coolant/heating etc, there is plenty of info on it.
Manuals available on forum, no you don't have to put in exactly the same coolant. Google coolant for a ton of info there.
If you are short of coolant and overheating maybe you should be looking for why that is.
 

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This sounds like the best thread for my issue.

I've brought my F3 675 in for service beginning of July and got my coolant filled. About a month later (beginning of August) it was at the min. mark. Today, it's completely empty, and all the coolant that exists in the bike, is inside the rad/tubes.

First of all, is this rate of coolant reduction normal?

The bigger issue:
I've noticed while riding that my coolant pours out of the overflow tube. Notice I said pours, not leaks or drips. Stopped at a stop light for less than a minute, there is a HUGE puddle of coolant under the bike. Can anyone with more technician knowledge give me some insight as to why this would happen considering I barely have enough coolant going through the bike as it is? While riding yesterday, I got to 2 bars above the mark.

Thanks guys.
 

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I've had this happen before due to an improperly filled cooling system with voids of air in the system creating pressure pockets where the water/coolant can boil and spew from the overflow. It's possible due to the PITA nature of properly draining/filling these bikes that the dealer "may" have introduced air into the system. This would explain the surges of coolant coming from the bike as well as the coolant at the time of maintenance being sucked into the bike to fill a void.

At this point the easiest thing to do would be to drain your coolant. (Lift fuel tank to expose reservoir cap, remove right lower panel to expose drain plug, remove right fairing to expose radiator cap).

With the bike warm, not hot, remove the radiator cap then place a basin or container to catch the coolant underneath the bike. Remove the coolant drain plug, not the oil drain on the side of the engine that looks the exact same, and let the coolant drain. Historically this will not be all of the coolant unless the thermostat is still of enough temp to be open. The best way to test this is to cap the radiator and install the drain plug and run the engine for a few seconds then drain again, chances are a fair amount will come back out of the system.

The process is reversed for filling and to do properly requires a fill and startup until the bike is at operating temps then shut it down and let it cool and check the level again. You can actually do this a few times if you are so inclined but this ensures all the air voids are out.

If you're feeling froggy measure the removed coolant. I measure my oil and coolant at changes.
 

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Where is the temperature sensor located on these bikes ? I believe it needs to be immersed in coolant to send a signal therefore if there is no coolant present the fans may not operate even though the bike is hot ?

joe
 

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The water temp sensor is located on the side of the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just a quick update:

After completely refilling the coolant system a few weeks ago all seems to be well (kinda). Its still losing coolant but at a drastically reduced rate. I took it out to a very toasty track day last week and it ran perfectly cool with no loss of coolant. Then, the next day, I was cruising around the streets and noticed the bike jump up to the 5 bar mark (which is usually does when sitting in traffic). But what really surprised me was the lack of fan. I stopped and turned the bike off and the fan was not running. I started it up again and the fan ran fine. Then when I got home, I noticed the coolant had dropped about 3/8 of an inch and the right side of the bike is covered it coolant. So, I'm beginning to think that I have an intermittent issue with the fan thats causing the coolant to boil off. Nevertheless, the bike is going in for service on the 20th to get all the problems addressed (dealer wants to keep it for a few days to figure out why it has spells of not starting and throwing a phase sensor error).
 

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Ok, I figured out my issue. My coolant is boiling out. When riding in stop-and-go traffic, I can actually see the fluid rising and boiling in the reservoir. I'm using Engine Ice.

Is this actually due to air pockets in the rad as pointed out by 99sitr? If so, what's the best way to avoid having them after draining the system and re-filling it? If I understand correctly it's (After draining):

1. Re-fill
2. Run bike until temp hits bar
3. Let cool (How long? 1-hour enough?)
4. Repeat steps 1-3 until fluid in reservoir doesn't go down any more after bike cools.

Is this correct?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
When I refilled mine (its still going down so dont think this will fix it 100%) I ran it till it got a touch of heat into the motor. I didnt let it go up all the way. I then took the radiator cap off and topped it up. Then I ran the bike with the cap off (yes bring on the oh no you should never do that. I did and it was fine) so I could continuously top up the radiator. Youll see bubbles depending on how much air is in the system, mine looked like it was carbonated, and will be able to remedy the displacement with ease. I waited till the bubbles stopped and then stopped the motor. I let it sit for a while, possibly even overnight if you have the time, and then I pulled the cap and topped it up again. I've been using my exhaust as a gauge to see how much coolant is being sprayed out, it'll be a lot more difficult for you since you have a fairing, and then I wiped it off.
 

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When I refilled mine (its still going down so dont think this will fix it 100%) I ran it till it got a touch of heat into the motor. I didnt let it go up all the way. I then took the radiator cap off and topped it up. Then I ran the bike with the cap off (yes bring on the oh no you should never do that. I did and it was fine) so I could continuously top up the radiator. Youll see bubbles depending on how much air is in the system, mine looked like it was carbonated, and will be able to remedy the displacement with ease. I waited till the bubbles stopped and then stopped the motor. I let it sit for a while, possibly even overnight if you have the time, and then I pulled the cap and topped it up again. I've been using my exhaust as a gauge to see how much coolant is being sprayed out, it'll be a lot more difficult for you since you have a fairing, and then I wiped it off.
Radiator cap or reservoir cap? I can't imagine you being able to see much into the radiator with that cap off. However, the reservoir is transparent...you sure you didn't mean that one?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I meant the radiator cap. 100% radiator cap. I could see well into the radiator with the cap off. Not the reservoir stupid allen screw but the big hand tightening radiator cap. Be wary when removing it with the bike hot as you could spray coolant everywhere.

 

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I meant the radiator cap. 100% radiator cap. I could see well into the radiator with the cap off. Not the reservoir stupid allen screw but the big hand tightening radiator cap. Be wary when removing it with the bike hot as you could spray coolant everywhere.

Awesome. Thank you!!!
 
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