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I have never taken the nose fairing off my F4, but it would probably be a good idea to run a few layers of green autobody tape over the area to support it, especially if the windscreen is removed.
 

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I've learned that when it comes to the nose especially, every grommet, washer, and torque value plays its part and is important.
 
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MV's plastics are also very brittle to begin with. My F3's rear tail unit fairings have broken on the bolts mounts beneath the seat on both sides. All still intact though and no risk of falling apart. Just annoying.
 

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I've actually found the thermoplastic fairings on my 1sr gen F4's pretty resilient to drops. They seem more flexible than my Suzuki fairings from the mid 2000s. I've stepped on my MV fairings a few times in my house and haven't managed to crack one yet. I thought the F3's also use the same thermoplastic bead process.
 

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I've actually found the thermoplastic fairings on my 1sr gen F4's pretty resilient to drops. They seem more flexible than my Suzuki fairings from the mid 2000s. I've stepped on my MV fairings a few times in my house and haven't managed to crack one yet. I thought the F3's also use the same thermoplastic bead process.
Not sure, maybe as a cost cutting measure they changed. All I know is that on mine, they are very brittle.
 

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I've stepped on my MV fairings a few times in my house and haven't managed to crack one yet.
That's one way to test their resilience:laugh: Let's hope persistence doesn't pay off.
It is annoying when trying to handle these items with care that because of their size and shape they still find a way to get under our feet if we lack the space to put them somewhere safer.
 

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Also, if the 2 nubs on the bottom of each the fairing stays, aka mirror bracket, support, etc... break off (like during a drop), the nose will crack at the bridge since the stays will move. See images.
 

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